A little help needed please.

[Big Si]

I wonder if some one could guide me in the purchase of a sheath knife. I would like something of comparable quality to the "Wood lore knife" but not at the cost. I would also like it to come with a quality sheath as I do not want to wetform one myself as I have no time for this at the moment. I understand that "You get what you pay for" but I do not want any thing too expensive. Any pointers in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.

Rgds

Big Si

 

[addyb]

Two words, baby: Frosts Mora.

They're cheap, and have amazing steel. Ask any of the bushcrafters here and they'll probably tell you the same thing. The only think you'll need to know is that the blade willl take a bit of work on a hone to get the edge where you'll need it for outdoor work. However, it is what's knows as a "Scandinavian grind" and that sort of blade profile is really easy to work with.

I'm right, right?

A.

PS: Happy New Year

 

[murf]

I have a Helle Eggen which is laminated and is a great knife and is very affordable and comes with a very nice sheath. I am very happy with mine and have not come acress a task it is not up for. Try one you will not be disapointed.
Cheers
Murf

 

[C_Claycomb]

You really need to have a trawl through the edged tools section here. As you can imagine, this is a common question and there are a number of threads that lay out the choices pretty well.

Have you been over to Brithish Blades? Have a look around for work by Stewart Marsh, Shing, Lord Farquhar, and Tvividr to name but a few? Commercial knives from Fallkniven and Bark River are good. Have a look at the FAQ thread at the top of this sub forum, it doesn't list sources, but has links to info on steel types and grind styles.

What do you want to use the knife for? Do you have a good everyday carry folder?

 

[capacious]

It depends on what your limit is. Like addyb said, the Frosts Mora is a fantastic knife for £10, but it does require a lot of skill with a sharpening stone. You could always look at something like the Helle 'Brakar' with a 5' blade, or the the Helle 'Harding' with a 4' blade. Both of these are incredible knives (in my opinion, FAR better than the Woodlore), with blades that are easy to sharpen and hold an edge remarkably well, and retail at around £50, and are both incredibly beatiful, from here:

http://www.heinnie.com/cgi-bin/heinnie_store/web_store.cgi?page=FRATOTAB/knives.htm&cart_id= .

There is always the traditional Scandinavian designs, such as the Lapp Puukko by a very old Finnish company, which I can tell you (and Gary from Bearclaw Bushcraft would agree, as he rated it far better than the Woodlore knife) is a fantastic knife which comes razor sharp straight out of the box, holds an edge better than any other knife I have ever used and is a bargain at only £35. All you need to do is file the back of the blade to take a Fire Stick. You can find it here - http://www.thetradingpost.co.uk/ - in the 'J-Line' section of Tregor Knives.

Or you could get a Woodlore copy, if that is the style of blade that your heart is set on, from here- http://www.swc-handmade-knives.com/ - which start at around £115 but can be customised to your specifications (which costs more).

One important thing to note is that the Woodlore has a lot of stigma attached to it, because it is the knife that Mr. Mears chooses to use, but it is really not that good. It is hopeless for food prepartaion, as can be seen in the Sweden episode when he absolutely destroyed the salmon he was 'filleting', because the blade is so very thick.

There are many much more versatile knives than the Woodlore, and cost a fraction of the price, and the ones that I have suggested are only the knives that I have used myself (except fot the SWC - I changed my mind after I used my friends Alan Wood version of the Woodlore), and there are many more out there that may be better suited to you.

I know that was a long thread, sorry .

I hope all that helps,

Jake.

 

[Big Si]

Thanks very much chaps for your swift replys. I'm not knew to bush craft just new to this site. I have a Buck folder with gut hook and at the moment I've been using a "William Rodgers" sheath knife. I really wanted to get myself a new knife this year but as I don't go into knife shops that often and don't want to get ripped off. Your replies and advice are a starting point for me. One thing I do want is a sheath for the knife that encloses 3/4 of the knife/handle. I've had ones in the past where the sheath only covers the blade and I've managed to loose two of these. Also I like the idea of the fire steel included in the sheath.

Rgds

Big Si

 

[redflex]

I got a lapp puukko, love it great knife.

Bought it from http://www.kellamknives.co.uk/

recommend it and the site.

 

[Kepis]

i echo addyb, a Frosts Mora is the way to go, cheap as chips so it doesn't matter if you mess the blade up when sharpening it, keeps a good edge and is comfortable to use, i have three and use them more than any other blade i have.

 

[Pablo]

One thing I do want is a sheath for the knife that encloses 3/4 of the knife/handle. I've had ones in the past where the sheath only covers the blade and I've managed to loose two of these. Also I like the idea of the fire steel included in the sheath.

Rgds

Big Si

If you go for the Frosts clipper (highly recommended as a cheap and cheerful but really effective knife) you can get a sheath off this guy on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....7242&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_ReBay_Pr4_PcN_BIN_IT

He has a number of options for neck and belt sheaths with or without firesteel holder. I can recommend the workmanship and delivery. It fits the Frosts knives really well.

Pablo

 

[Damascus]

Get a frosts mora, I have got a lovely hand made blade which does the job but always scared I may damage it. Bought a Mora about 3 years ago and never looked back (Well only when I lost them) so recently I have purchased two in day glow orange and as yet they are still with me. As they saying goes cheap as chips and good with food prep too!!

 

[Ogri the trog]

Capacious,
I hope nobody minds if I dive in here, but I have some questions about your post. I'm thinking of getting a Woodlaw ( ) clone as I can't afford a real one - (maybe I don't want a real one but the shape & profile appeal).

What was the thing that changed your mind about the WL knife after using one by Alan Wood? Did it have a different profile or thinner blade?

I have made knives from kits before, most notably a Brisa Nordic. Although I do not do much in the way of food prep in the field, others using WL's seemed to make short work of making the Bowdrill components on a recent Workshop Day.
I feel as though I want a WL style knife, to which I can add a homemade sheath with provision for a firesteel as it would be a complete project.

I'm just fishing for peoples comments on why they think that the WL is good or bad and the reasons behind their thoughts.

TIA

Ogri the trog

 

[fa11en ange1]

I have had 2 Frost's Moras (a 780 & a Classic), a Svord Drop Point and currently own a Shing Badger Knive (woody clone), a Brisa Nordic Skinner kit knife & a Kellam Pukko.

Of all of these I found the Moras a pain to sharpen, admittedly this was in part because I was learning. In fact I manage to change the bevel on one from scandi to convex - oops. Anyway the point is they are good if you're new and worried about mangling an expensive blade or are content with being able to easily replace them, but as effiecient as they may be they still feel cheap. Also I found that they still snapped veg (potatoes & carrots) rather than slicing it.

My favourite knife for food prep was the Svord, which could peel and slice anything, even fresh bread & cherry tomatoes. However it wasn't so good (in my feeble hands) at some elements of carving, such as feather sticks.

I generally only use the Badger now and love it to bits. I haven't had a chance to do much food preparation but it will slice meat and bread quite happily, plus it is a superb wood carver. I don't doubt for a second that the blade is a touch thick for efficient veg prep, but I can live with that. I'd rather the knife was solid enough for heavy use, such as battoning and prying wood apart as I use it much more often in those sort of tasks. I also find the blade takes a razor edge (as demonstrated by the permanent bald patch on my arm) than any of my other knives.

 

[Klenchblaize]

Capacious,
I hope nobody minds if I dive in here, but I have some questions about your post. I'm thinking of getting a Woodlaw ( ) clone as I can't afford a real one - (maybe I don't want a real one but the shape & profile appeal).

What was the thing that changed your mind about the WL knife after using one by Alan Wood? Did it have a different profile or thinner blade?



I have made knives from kits before, most notably a Brisa Nordic. Although I do not do much in the way of food prep in the field, others using WL's seemed to make short work of making the Bowdrill components on a recent Workshop Day.
I feel as though I want a WL style knife, to which I can add a homemade sheath with provision for a firesteel as it would be a complete project.

I'm just fishing for peoples comments on why they think that the WL is good or bad and the reasons behind their thoughts.

TIA

Ogri the trog

I think you'll find the difference between the AW and Woodlore is mostly in the treatment of the handle profile and that the tang tapers to the rear. The picture of my Alan Wood version can be seen in the GALLERY under "edged tools" and should give some idea. Hope this is of interest.

Cheers

K

 

[scruff]

One thing I do want is a sheath for the knife that encloses 3/4 of the knife/handle. I've had ones in the past where the sheath only covers the blade and I've managed to loose two of these. Also I like the idea of the fire steel included in the sheath.

Sounds like something like the IJ Pukko (as seen in the reviews section) would be the best bet. It sits real snugly in the sheath and right up to the pommel.

Having a fire steel on the sheath....surely something else to get lost there bud?

 

[Ogri the trog]

I think you'll find the difference between the AW and Woodlore is mostly in the treatment of the handle profile and that the tang tapers to the rear. The picture of my Alan Wood version can be seen in the GALLERY under "edged tools" and should give some idea. Hope this is of interest.

Cheers

K

Hi Klenchblaize, Nice Damascus!
I've ordered one of SWC's kits this afternoon, but I'm curious to know why the tapered tang makes such a difference. I know that it can only be a reduction of weight at the rear of the knife, but does this really have such a dramatic effect on the knife as a whole?
I'm guessing that if I really don't get on with it I can always get the tang machined to a taper and try that. But for the time being, I think it will turn out just fine.

Any one else have thoughts on the subject?

Ogri the trog

 

[Klenchblaize]

Hi Klenchblaize, Nice Damascus!
I've ordered one of SWC's kits this afternoon, but I'm curious to know why the tapered tang makes such a difference. I know that it can only be a reduction of weight at the rear of the knife, but does this really have such a dramatic effect on the knife as a whole?
I'm guessing that if I really don't get on with it I can always get the tang machined to a taper and try that. But for the time being, I think it will turn out just fine.

Any one else have thoughts on the subject?

Ogri the trog

To be honest I've never held an AW Woodlore but, whilst I'm not claiming the great difference, the reduction in weight at the rear will change the balance allthough by how much will depend on the material used for the scales. The handle contour mods do appear to fit the hand rather well.

Cheers

K

 

[capacious]

Capacious,
I hope nobody minds if I dive in here, but I have some questions about your post. I'm thinking of getting a Woodlaw ( ) clone as I can't afford a real one - (maybe I don't want a real one but the shape & profile appeal).

What was the thing that changed your mind about the WL knife after using one by Alan Wood? Did it have a different profile or thinner blade?

I have made knives from kits before, most notably a Brisa Nordic. Although I do not do much in the way of food prep in the field, others using WL's seemed to make short work of making the Bowdrill components on a recent Workshop Day.
I feel as though I want a WL style knife, to which I can add a homemade sheath with provision for a firesteel as it would be a complete project.

I'm just fishing for peoples comments on why they think that the WL is good or bad and the reasons behind their thoughts.

TIA

Ogri the trog

I didn't like the woodlore because I felt that, apart from being a little cumbersome, was that it was a lot less versatile than ALL of of the other knives I have used. Don't get me wrong when I say that, it is a superb knife and a joy to use for certain techniques (feathersticks with this knife were fantastically easy to make, as are pot hangers) but ONLY for those few techniques. Unless you never intend on skinning a rabbit or cleaning a fish, I would stay away from it because £225 is a rediculous amount of money to spend on such a limited tool.

If you do still want a woodlore style balde, then I'd go for one of the SWC knives - they are half the price and are as near as damnit to the original, and are made from the same steel.

I hope that helps, whatever decision you make, Jake.

 

[Ogri the trog]

Capacious,
Thanks for the reply, you might have seen in my earlier post that I have gone for a SWC kit. And yes, it'll primarliy be for feathersticks and the like. I have other much smaller knives for paunching rabbits etc.

Thanks for you comments everybody.

Ogri the trog