Just What You Can Carry On Your Back

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Mirius

Nomad
Jun 2, 2007
499
1
North Surrey
He does, but I prefer Spamels route. While dropping out an item every time would be good, if you have the confidence then you should drop as many items as you think you can. Personally the first few times I'd have the kit in backup, and I could cope with the knowledge that it was within reach - if I was uncomfortable then I'd know that I was doing it wrong.
 

Geuf

Nomad
May 29, 2006
258
0
40
Eindhoven, the Netherlands
Dropping out an item of equipment every time you go can be the way to go if you don't feel comfortable dropping out everything at once. But look at it this way; why not test yourself to get to know yourself. How you will react in such a situation. hungry, cold and alone. it not fun a the time of doing it. But it shapes a person in a way he'll be facing problems with an ever growing grin each time he encounters them.
Anyway, if the issue is one of going out with the minimum of kit, it doesn't have to be miles away from civilization. You could go out to a place half a day walking distance of hot food, hot showers and a warm bed. But, with minimal kit to stay out at least a night. Food would be no problem. yeah, you'd be a bit hungry, but so is 1/3 of the world population. main thing is that you experience your surroundings in a completely diffirent way. I bet that when you get home you'll be sitting down with a big: aahhhh. a cup of koffee and a big grin.

( now that I think of it. it would also be interesting to do this thing in a big city. bum style. see how you pull through. Citysurvival? )
 
Nov 12, 2007
112
0
Canada
Interesting thoughts Geuf. Although doing this in a large urban center in N. America will likely get you beat up by the local yobs after they've been drinking at the pub.It's a real problem for the homeless here in Toronto, as I've sat down with a few of them and talked about theirs difficulties.
Alex
 

Jembly/Sloth

Member
Dec 6, 2007
28
0
Appledore, Kent
Each to their own I guess both methods should work as a means of building confidence without tools and skills. To me it's important that as people become more experienced in 'bushcraft' that is tested in one off these ways, otherwise can you ever be sure you would cope? Surely this is a major reason for developing such skills?

As for urban survival that as mentioned has a slightly different set of issues and the old martial arts training might come in more useful:rolleyes:
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,709
1,947
Mercia
Its an interesting discussion this - and one they I have spent some time debating and deciding on. Somewhere (and I'm happy to find it and post it if anyone is really interested), I have the contents of my larger pack all laid out with exactly what I would pack in it in a situation where I chose to spend some period of time away from home. Areas I think that have perhaps been neglected on the previous threads are:

First Aid. Small problems become big ones fast without access to proper medical care. Taking care of foot problems, cuts etc, becomes vital if there are no medical services available.

As for firearms - well I guess that depends how long you would plan to be out and about for if planning to gather game. The very best I have ever sen for such an environment would be a "combination" rifle / shotgun. My friends is an over / under in 12 bore / .243. That would get you anything from bunny and bird to deer. Problem will always be ammunition. 12 bore is bulky stuff. For pure "feed me" purposes, a really, really good .22RF with a lightweight barrel would probably serve as well as anything. 250 rounds of .22 would take a lot less space than 50 rounds of 12 bore. Lets face it without preservation techniques and materials, most of a large carcass would be wasted anyway so small game makes more sense. However really trapping equipment and set line fishing (long lines etc.) would make the most sense. Truly fantastic snares can be packed 50 to a cigarette case and will feed you far longer than any firearm.

In the UK, candidly, there isn't enough wilderness to make this a viable option so perhaps gear in this situation should be optimised towards carrying food rather than "getting" food. If 60 million people took to the hills, all available game would be gone in a week. The ability to know that one could survive in the wilderness for an extended period is a laudable aim though - and indeed goes to the core of what we do!

Interesting thread

Red
 

wildrover

Nomad
Sep 1, 2005
365
1
Scotland
Please post your list Red
I, for one would be interested to see it.
It's always good to see well thought out options.

LOL just noticed 100 posts at last ( only joined over 2 years ago,ahh the joy's of mostly lurking:D )
 

gunnix

Nomad
Mar 5, 2006
434
2
Belgium
I'd take this with me:

my girlfriend and any other friends around wanting to come

gransfors axe, if I had to go really light I'd prefer a small axe as only cutting tool over a knife, but I take a sfa here.
mora knife
firesteel
sak hunter
sharpening stone
rucksack with drybag inside
fenix l1D torch with spare AA nimh batteries (the kind which loose little energy over time) and a solar charger.
small locking pliers with wire cutters
2 pair filt trousers, woolen socks, woolen hat, woolen balaclava, woolen scarf, gloves, 2 belts
woolen jumpers, 2 woolen ponchos (blanket and coat in one)
canvas bivvy bag (windproof)
boots, light tiresandals and mocassins
a piece of reindeerskin/foam sleeping mat
lots of bacon
a german poncho to use as tarp
rope 10m or something like that
small silva compass with whistle
small sewing kit
small first aid kit (I should be able to find needed medicinal plants on the spot)
some gaffa tape (repair tarp etc)
fishing line + hooks
small booklet with lots of survival info packed into it.
waterbottle
steel mug
candles + matches

By no means light, but would be comfortable.

If I'm with my girlfriend I let her carry the machete and pocket chainsaw we got ;)

But most important are ofcourse the skills and knowledge you got.

If it needed to be really lightweight, as in I have to be able to run away quickly perhaps this list:
2 woolen ponchos, merino wool baselayer, woolen balaclava (use as scarf too) only clothing on top
belt
woolen legwarmers
woolen socks
tire sandals + mocassins (quite high)
On my belt or in small rucksack: firesteel, small axe, metal waterbottle, bw poncho + some rope tied to the corners.
bacon or some other high energy food
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,709
1,947
Mercia
Please post your list Red
I, for one would be interested to see it.

Okay - well you did ask

This is the original posting - I've made a few amendments since but its substantially the same but with perhaps better quality components substituted as funds have allowed


This is the "stand alone" version; there was also a supplementary bag for the second person in the combined group to go.

bob36jz.jpg



Sections of Bag

I've tried to edit the image into sections and label each section (Food etc.). I can then describe in detail what’s in each section

The sections I have used are:

Food
Water
First Aid
Cutting
Light
Fire
Navigation
Personal Care
Miscellaneous
Writing
Sleeping
Inner Clothes
Outer Clothes


The whole lot will pack into a 100 litre Green Bergan (80 +20 litre). This is a good, internally framed, rip stop nylon padded back pack with padded hip belt and removable pockets that zip together to form a day sack. The Large black bag you can see in the bottom left of the drinking square is in fact 3 waterproof liners specifically made to fit the main sack body and the two main pockets.

I'll try to give a detailed description of one area a night (maybe with a better photo if I can). I'll try to list any reasons for the contents as well as the contents themselves. Three points to note:

The entire thought process behind this bag is that all the kit is good, used stuff, but not my "main" or "best" gear. The reason being that my main gear is often being used, is dirty, wet etc. This kit is designed to be permanently packed and available. If I have time to re-pack, much of this gear would be replaced by my preferred choice. If I have to grab and go though, it'll be ready.

Food
Food Part 1 – Ration Packs

rations2dp.jpg


Part 1 of the food section is 3 ration packs.. I have tried to model these on a British Forces ration pack, but make it lighter and more to my taste. The aim was to increase the food carried for the same weight. Here are the details of what’s in each pack (menus vary but items are the same)

Ration Pack in large plastic ziplock

Meals
1 Dehydrated Breakfast
1 Dehydrated Main Meal
1 Dehydrated Desert

Sundries
10 tissues (plastic wrapped)

1 box all weather matches sealed in ziplock

Snacks pack (sealed in ziplock)
1 muesli bar
2 chocolate bars
3 small fuit bars
1 small sugar free chewing gum

Drinks pack (sealed in ziplock)
1 isotonic sports drink powder
4 Sugar sachets
2 Drink whitener
1 vegetable stock drink
2 sachets instant white tea
2 sachets coffee
1 sachet latte
1 sachet cappuccino
2 sachets sauce
1 sachet salt
1 tea bag
10 puritabs

Net weight of ration pack 750g (as opposed to 1600g for MRE rat pack). This means I can carry twice as much food dehydrated (although 1 days worth of MREs is useful). Therefore 72hr bag contains 2 dehydrated meal and 1 MRE based.

Food Part 2 – Cooking Kit

trangia0ug.jpg


Part 2 of the “food kit” is cooking equipment etc. This consists of:

Trangia set consisting of:
Burner
Support
Windshield
2 bowl shaped pans
1 frying pan / lid
Gripper
1 litre of methylated spirit in anodised aluminium fuel bottle
Knife, fork and spoon
Small bottle of anti bacterial washing up liquid and pan scourer in ziplock bag
8oz steel hipflask full of Islay Malt

I selected the trangia because its aluminium and hence light in weight. The burner system cannot go wrong and weight for burn time, meths is as light as gas. The pans and frying pan double up as my bowl and plate.

The washing up liquid and scourer is to prevent food poisoning. The squits can wear you out and stop you getting home – not worth it.

The scotch is liquid analgesic, sterilising solution and….oh hell I like scotch.

Water Kit

water5ae.jpg


The “water” section consists of:

1 British forces 58 pattern water bottle (light, plastic, works with an S10 respirator if you are carrying NBC kit). Also stacks into the Crusader cup.

1 metal crusader cup. Stacks with water bottle, doubles as a pan if necessary

1 anodised aluminium water bottle, insulated belt pouch and sports cap. Light, unbreakable, easy to drink from on the go, hard to spill, doubles as a duplicate fuel bottle if necessary.

1 Platypus roll up 2 litre water carrier. Ups my water carrying to 4 litres and weighs nothing. Important with freeze dried food.

1 water filter and stuff sack to keep clean

100 puritabs which weigh next to nothing but are vital for health.


First Aid Kit

firstaid2da.jpg



The first aid kit consists of a large ziplock bag containing

1 pair EMT shears
2 N95 masks
1 bandage pack (in medium ziplock)
1 tube hand steriliser
1 insect repellent pump (50% DEET – accept no substitute)
1 ready to go disinfectant pump
1 sundries pack (in medium ziplock)
1 cuts and grazes pack (in medium ziplock)
1 meds pack (in medium ziplock)

First Aid Kit – bandage pack
1 Shell dressing
1 extra large wound dressing
1 medium wound dressing
1 no. 9 ambulance dressing
1 triangular bandage
1 7.5cm stretch bandage
1 5cm x 5m open weave bandage
1 finger dressing
2 small dressings
10 assorted safety pins

First Aid Kit – cuts and grazes pack
25g Potassium Permanganate (used to make more disinfectant, sterilise water or as chemical fire starter)
17ml Iodine solution (disinfectant or water purification – not to be used as water purification with pregnant women or thyroid conditions)
20g Anthisan bite and sting cream
latex gloves
50 assorted plasters including knuckle, large strip etc.
Blister kit including heel plasters, moleskin etc.
Small ziplock of cotton buds
13ml bottle of new skin (great for small burns, grazes and blisters)
23g of “stop bleed” spray

This may seem over the top, but the intention is to stop small problems becoming large ones. Infected cuts, blisters and bergan rubs were what I most had to look out for on extended trips.

First Aid Kit – sundries pack

1 10cm x 10cm Melolin Dressing Pad
2 5cm x 5cm Melolin Dressing Pads
2 antiseptic wipes
2 sets of steristrips and clear adhesive covering
1 pair latex gloves
1 Turniclip tourniquet
1 scalpel and 5 sterile blades
1 thermometer
1 pair forceps
2 ampoules saline solution (for washing objects from eyes)
1 roll 5m micropore tape
1 tube medical superglue (used to glue wound closed)
Suture kit (not worth it if you do not have the requisite training)


First Aid Kit – medicines pack
6 Immodium tablets (stops diarrhoea)
10 co-codamol tablets (severe painkiller)
6 aspirin tablets (painkiller and heart problems)
12 caffeine tablets (stimulant to keep you awake)
8 cinnarizine tablets (anti-nausea)
8 phenylephrine tablets (decongestant)
12 ibruprofen tablets (painkiller and anti-inflammatory)
7 antihistamine tablets (bites / stings and hayfever)
6 laxative tablets
6 strepsil tablets (sore throats)
12 rennie tablets (indigestion)
15 broad spectrum antibiotics (if certified and travelling)

Each medicine is in a separate ziplock bag. The bag carries the name of the medicine, its purpose and recommended dosage.

This is a large pack, but other family members can then just carry a small personal kit


Cutting

cutting6uk.jpg


The “blades” in my bag are:

A 1 1/4lb camp hatchet and cover. I have much “better” axes than this, but considered that the combination of lightweight and a metal handle make this a durable and portable choice for splitting and chopping.

A carbon steel fixed blade Frost Mora knife. A superb knife for the money and one I can afford to leave in my bag. I have ditched the sheath it came in and replaced with a superb custom leather sheath (a gift from a good mate). This also has a “socket” to carry my fire steel (see Fire).

A Bohco Laplander saw – a great value folding saw that locks open and closed. Very lightweight. This is intended for stake cutting and shelter building.

A cheap multi-tool. Selected because I can afford to leave it in the bag. This forms my “spare” knife, file for heavy sharpening, backup pot holder etc.

Gerber knife sharpener – course and fine ceramic rods to keep a good edge on my blades.



Light

light7zk.jpg



This is a kit I am happy with. It consists of:

1 mini maglight converted to LEDs and run on lithium AAs. This torch will run for 240 hours on 1 set of lithiums. The batteries have a 15 year shelf life.

1 Niteize holder for the mini mag. This holds two spare lithium batteries and, as well as acting as a belt pouch for the orch can be stood up to convert the torch into a small lantern.

4 spare lithium AAs in a ziplock bag

1 LED headlight. This has steady mode and flashing mode for attracting attention. An absolute necessity for hands free walking and working. Takes 3 alkaline AAAs. I would like to have lithiums but can’t find any in this size. I would also rather have a standard battery size, but the AAAs also fit my GPS and AAs fit my radio so never mind.

6 spare alkaline AAAs in a ziplock bag

2 Sterene candles. Sterene burns longer than normal candles (these are good for at least 12 hours each). They give camp light but can also be pressed to help with fire lighting.

2 8 hour snaplights (1 red, 1 yellow). Mainly for night signals.

Fire

fire5ml.jpg


Right the burny stuff. Many will think I have overdone this, but to me food, water, warmth and shelter are the biggies. This kit is small but a duplicate of gear I use a LOT.

1 Tinder box. An old military plastic job that seals completely watertight. Holds my tinder (all also individually sealed).

15 petroleum jelly (Vaseline) soaked cotton wool balls. Each is individually wrapped in a tiny ziplock bag. If I have to open the tinder in howling rain, I like everything sealed up. I also don’t have to pull stuck balls apart in the dark etc. Goes in the tinder box.

5 ziplock bags of firelighter pieces. Yup its cheating. So? Goes in the tinder box

1 ziplock bag of whole firelighters (see above). Goes in the tinder box

1 box of 45 waterproof matches sealed in a ziplock. Goes in the tinder box.

1 piezo electric lighter. Backup. Goes in the tinder box.

1 high capacity “turbo flame” gas lighter with a small backup compass. O ring sealed to keep the wet out. Lives in my pocket.

1 Swedish firesteel on recoil key ring. The key ring attaches it to my belt and it sits in a slot on my knife sheath. There is a splitting attachment if I want it “loose”

There is also a ziplocked box of waterproof matches in every 24 hour food pack, and I can make fire with potassium permanganate and sugar sachets if I need to. Failing that I’ll use some paracord and make a fire bow – I take fire seriously!


Navigation

Navigation. A bit like chess – easy to learn the basics, but you never stop learning. If you can’t use a map and compass, learn! Ordnance Survey now do a cheap and high quality interactive learning CD Rom – so no excuses.

navigation0ok.jpg


Heres the kit then:


Map. A good one. Or a good set covering from where you are to where you want to be. I like to use 1:25:000 Explorer series when exploring new areas. They aren’t available for all areas though and 1:50,000 are good enough and cover more area for the same weight. OS will print one of the area you want in the scale you want. I also throw in “whole county” A:Z. Rubbish for off road navigation, but covers every ‘B’ road and farm track for the whole county in one book. Keep in a clear platic bag or map case.

Compass. The best one you can afford (and a backup). Buy a Silva and accept no substitute. There is a spare on my lighter, another (Silva) on my possibles bag and another Silva Micra in my Leatherman case.

Whistle (jetscream). Vital for signalling and summoning help. Not part of navigation but it lives on my compass cord round my neck.

GPS. Tells you where you are. Exactly. Can be pre-programmed with locations and point you straight to them however lost you are. A great piece of kit that shares AAA batteries with my head torch. No substitute for a map and compass though (doesn’t tell you what the terrain will be like, where rivers and water are etc.).

That’s it.

Personal Care Kit

I’ve put quite a lot of thought into my “wash” kit over the years. Here it is in current guise.

personalkit8vz.jpg




This kit contains:

Folding toothpaste and brush
Razor – I have a beard, but a trim makes me look a little less wurzle like. Its also handy for shaving around cuts etc.
Folding scissors (nail care is vital – no hoof, no horse)
Metal tin containing solid bar shampoo and bar of soap. Keeps the wet stuff separate.
Folding brush and mirror combination. Too hard for a mirror? Try steri-stripping your own cut eye without one!
2 sachets of shower gel
Small sponge
Individual sachet of hair gel – handy for that “returning to civilisation” moment
Small synthetic sponge for washing those important places (synthetic doesn’t rot)
Tube of wilderness cream – acts as sun cream, wind burn cream etc.
Comb
Tepe brush (like dental floss)
Sewing kit
Anti perspirant
Star flash signal mirror. In this kit to use as a conventional mirror and in the past, my brush mirror was the only one I had, so this is where I know to look.
Poly bag containing tissue packets (individually wrapped) – I carry lots to wipe both ends! Also a packet of wet wipes for those “short of water” wash ups.
Poly bag containing a tub of Nikwax (re-proofing for boots), shoe brush and a few "j" cloths (good for lots of things from flannel to pot holder).

The entire kit packs into my “wash bowl”. This is a collapsible bowl lined with a stuff sack. Its designed as a portable dog bowl, but makes washing a pleasure when a little fire and a billy can are added. I also use this to gather water before putting it through my water filter. The draw string makes spilling it nearly impossible when its full.


washbag3ce.jpg


Miscellaneous Kit
This is a bit of a catch all really. Just bits I find useful. In particular order:

misc7sw.jpg


AM/FM/LW radio. Good for keeping up with the news (and cricket on LW). Takes the same AAs as the maglight and has an integral earpiece or speaker, so I can share or be private.

Small monocular. Goodish quality and handy for everything from game spotting, terrain checking etc.

Pocket edition SAS survival guide. Always handy to have. Will often include “food for free” as well

Duct tape. Its like the force, it has a dark side, a light side and it holds the universe together. Everything from fixing fabric tears onwards

Paracord. Good for bivvying, boot laces, shelter building etc.

Kite string. Great for snares, fishing, shelter building and very light.

10 premade MkII snares. Each snare weighs 1g

Spare specs. Obvious.

Glucose tablets. Energy hit and yum.


Writing
This is a small but vital kit. It can be very important to write and leave messages, record information accurately or retrieve information when away from home (bank account details, passport number etc.). My bag contains the following:

writing7yk.jpg


1 pad of waterproof notepaper. This pad will not dissolve if wet and a sheet can be left outside with details of your plans in an emergency.

1 pad of conventional paper and pencil in binder. Useful for non-emergencies (exchanging contact details etc.). Slipped under the cover and hidden is a small “SD” storage card containing scans of vital documents (passport etc.). You can password protect these in case of loss

1 permanent marker pen. This can be used to write on paper, plastic, wood, leather etc. When dry the ink is water and smudge proof.

1 pencil and metal pencil sharpener. Again, this is a waterproof option. The pencil cannot dry up or leak either. Also, in an emergency, pencil sharpenings make great tinder

1 adapted parker pen. Adapted by removing the parker refill and replacing it with a fisher space pen refill (they make these especially to fit Parker pens). Fisher space pens use pressurised ink and write upside down and underwater.

1 CD marker pen – essentially a mini permanent marker (but you can write smaller – sometimes a plus, sometimes not).


Sleeping System

Sleep systems are as personal as clothes so if you want to drift off at this point – feel free! This one is light, flexible and requires minimal site preparation. It works for me.

sleeping5pu.jpg


Working from the inside out:

Sleeping bag. I vary these according to the seasons. I find a winter one too hot to use in summer and a summer one too cold in winter. I prefer a synthetic filling as it stays warmer when wet. Down is lighter, warmer and packs better, but is more prone to crushing through prolonged packing and very poor when wet.

Thermalite comfort sleep mat. Self inflating sleep mats are the business. This one is thicker than most (raises you a good 3.5cm off the deck. More comfort, more insulation. Rolls down to no larger than a closed cell mat. Can get a puncture, but I’ve got a repair kit taped to the inside of the stuff sack. Closed cell mats cannot puncture but are colder and less comfortable. Your choice. NB The sleep mat goes INSIDE the bivi bag.

Goretex bivi bag. The business. Get one the right size for you, a large bag and mat.

Sheet of clear light polythene 3m square wrapped in kite string. If its raining hard, I use this as a tarp to keep the rain of me and my kit. In the absence of trees, Ill just support it on a stick and tuck it under the bivi bag and bergan. Also good for solar stills, impromptu capes etc.

That’s it. I have been known to sleep in just the bivi bag (warm but rainy), just the sleeping bag (cool & dry) etc.


Outer Clothing

Now, this material is essentially the “keep you dry” stuff. There aren’t that many choices to make although style and cut are a matter of personal taste. The one point I would make here is learn to “layer”. Almost all my waterproof gear is “shell” type (un-insulated). I can then wear it with layers of insulation underneath to the degree I need. Too much and I’ll get as wet from sweat as I would from rain. Too little and it hypothermia, core temp drop and death. Layers that are flexible let you adjust clothing as the weather changes. So heres my choices:

outerclothing5vi.jpg


Goretex jacket. Waterproof and breathable. A wired hood that rolls up into the neck. A wired hood because it acts like a peaked cap and keeps the rain out of my eyes. Rolled away because I don’t like them flapping around if it isn’t raining. I like a mid-thigh length jacket.

Goretex over-trousers. A must for me. Cold, wet legs are a pain and sap strength and energy. Without over-trousers, rain runs down your jacket and soaks into your legs. Dew from bracken and long grass can also soak you through. I also suggest a pair of gaiters if space permits (mine live with my main boots and will be on me).

Boots gore-tex lined leather. Good “Vibram” type soles. These are very well worn but the soles are fine and they are watertight. My main boots will be on my feet given the chance.

Thinsulate lined “watch cap”. 30% of body heat is lost through the head. This keeps me warm and fits under the hood in rain.

Goretex, thinsulate lined gloves. Walk in the cold and rain with your hands out for a while and see how much you need them. Don’t forget you will be wearing a Bergan, which makes “hand warmer” pockets hard to get at.

Leather, forearm length gauntlets. Good for chopping and making, lifting hot pots, moving brambles and thorn branches and general hand protection. Unless its really wet or cold, I wear these a lot!

That lot will protect me from the worst of the elements. Replace as you will but ensure that all of you is protected from the rain.


Inner Clothing
The final and perhaps the most personal layer of kit. Pack what you will with some provisos. Be able to layer your clothes to cope with cold nights, damp mornings, sunny days and cool evenings. Denim gets cold and wet and stays wet, Wool keeps you warm even if wet. Don’t economise on socks and double layer them (thin cotton socks with Snug wool boot socks over.

innerclothing7qz.jpg


Here are my choices:

2 Flannel shirts
2 Lifa base layer long sleeve shirts (winter) or heavy cotton t-shirts (summer)
2 pairs cotton long johns (winter) or boxers (summer)
2 pair light inner socks
2 pair wool boot socks
1 bridle leather belt
1 army “woolly pully”
1 micro fleece.
1 pair army OG lightweights
1 pair heavy cotton cargos.
36” heavy cotton bandana. Used for sweat band, scarf, face mask, pot holder, bandage etc.

As I said before, over time, I have varied the contents but the basic essentials remain. I still use this list as a kit list for everything from long Bushcraft trips to holiday checklist.

I'm sure many can critique it. For bushcraft weekends I have a much smaller First Aid kit for example. Hopefuly it might give some ideas to use or discard as you see fit

Red
 
Nov 12, 2007
112
0
Canada
It is indeed well thought out Red. Now, as a thought experiment, try to pare down each section to one, maybe two essential items. The purpose being not to go along with the ultra lite crowd, but to try to determine the least amount of gear one can practically go out and about with. Others have mentioned that this would cut into their 'comfort zone', and that's probably true, but I feel that our individual comfort zones can be pared down also, so to speak, more than we would initially think.
Just for fun, and food for thought, I'll include two URL's that might get people thinking in a different direction:
http://www.dirttime.com/coffeecancookware.html
http://ridgerunnersurvival.tripod.com/nobudget.htm
Cheers
Alex
 

British Red

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Dec 30, 2005
26,709
1,947
Mercia
Alex - been there, done that. Theres a few threads around with my shelters etc. in and I have done several "belt kit" or "pockets only" weekends. Its certainly doable - indeed very possible. However paring down on things ike First Aid can mean dangerous or uncomfortable choices. Given I've "been there and done that" I feel, these days, that its very easy to be uncomfortable and cold. Whats my minimum? A 12cm billy, knife, flint and steel and a pocket FAK. I've managed a weekend out with that before - these days though, I enjoy the knowledge that I can do it - and I choose not to!

Red
 

spamel

Banned
Feb 15, 2005
6,833
21
48
Silkstone, Blighty!
Although it is an interesting exercise in itself, I personally take what makes me comfy and some extra stuff too! Normally, when I go to places like Middlewood or Delamere, I'll tip up with quite a lot of gear, not quite as much as Wayland mind! I roughed it in the forces, when paring your kit down was a must as you had to carry it on your back. I'm a slim bloke, so don't have the physical strength to carry 50 lbs worth of kit plus ammunition and rations! I always went on exercise with the bare minimum, a bottle of tabasco was a treat for me that had to be taken though!

I'm in the process of trying to get my kit fully civilianised, I also want to get back to a more simple way of doing things and try to cut out a lot of the technology. Some will stay, a torch is very handy at times, synthetic sleeping gear and lightweight tarps are great. My stove is brilliant and has never let me down yet. Sometimes though, i just want to go as simple as I can. Packing my kit in plastic waterproof containers is great for keeping stuff dry and stops it spoiling, but they are hard to pack as they are the same size whether they are full or empty. Maybe I should get some light canvas waxed bags made up.

Now, who could make those for a fee?
 

xylaria

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Freeganism and bushcraft are compatible ideas, but I use a proper sleeping bag, hammock and tarp. But I find it less infuriating if i can look the things everyday scroats leave behind in our natural places as a resource. i have used discarded tins to cook on, my brother in law has a brazer made from a washing machine that was found in a hedge. I have found sheets of building plastic that could be used to cover a bender (wiki-up). Beer cans can be made into meths stoves and a rubbish knife that cuts meat and soft things (including fingers). I find it no different than foraging anything else.

I have experimented with making a hammock with a large throw and paracord. The paracord is whipped around the ends of the fabric, and a rope is that attached. It makes for heavy and unreliable kit but i found it useful to know. I have also experimented with using a bed sheet as a tarp. It worked surprising well but again it is heavy and i wouldn't like the idea of relying on it in poor weather. I know where is a large pile of fly tipped bricks, but that may be taking the freegan bushcraft ideology a little too far:D .
 
Nov 12, 2007
112
0
Canada
Red, you are right of course, I suspected most BCUKer's have already done what I was thinking of.
Xylaria, that's what I've also been doing...thinking of the discards as a resource...one recycled by me. :)
CG, I've hiked the height of the land arctic watershed trail near Chapleau., but that being said the arctic watershed in Ont. is quite extensive...so you could be anywhere from Wawa all the way east to Temigami/Temiskaming hmmm give me another clue... :D
Cheers
Alex
 

Geuf

Nomad
May 29, 2006
258
0
40
Eindhoven, the Netherlands
I just got back from a few nights in the woods. And I choose to leave my stove home and use the fire. But I must admit, it's more of a hastle then I would have thought. I've boiled water this way before. but doing everything that has to do with cooking over a fire, proves more difficult.t It is another chalange to get comfortable with though.
 

spamel

Banned
Feb 15, 2005
6,833
21
48
Silkstone, Blighty!
The thing with cooking over a fire is that there are infinite variables that you can use to control the heat, and learning them is more of a science than anything else. Different woods burn at different temperatures, then you have to take into account the moisture in the wood if it is well seasoned or not, whether it was caught up in the tree or on the ground. The method used to lay the fire also affects the heat, the stage of the burn, ie. still have flames or just embers. The wind speed and temperature in the area you are cooking. The list goes on.

If you want to just boil food, then it's not a problem, but if you want to make more complicated meals outdoors then you really need to experiment a lot and not be too down when you burn dinner!
 

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