Sorry to have this over two posts. The previous picture post looks like it worked so the following is some commentary on those pictures.
A well designed , insulated house is needed especially in the climate we live. Coldest here was -57F since we've been here. The house was toasty. I researched construction and didn't like what I saw. The basic idea for a warm house is insulation, minimal thermal bridges between outside and inside and eliminating drafts and air exchange as much as possible.
The first picture shows a few things. Top and bottom wall plates are 2X8. I used two 2X4 butted together to create a 2X8 as a stud. BUT in that butted seam is a 1 1/2 in. wide strip of blue board insulation. Even wood conducts cold (although poorly) and this helps eliminate the direct contact between inside and outside. That 8 inch wall cavity is stuffed with insulation and there is a layer of blue board as added insulation on the inside walls under the paneling.
All windows in the house are triple glaze. One of the best things we did was do a good job of a vapor barrier. Everything was taped at the seams. Outlets and switches on outside walls had plastic inserts made for the purpose and were also taped and sealed. You are basically living in a plastic bag. The house is very tight. There are no drafts and temp is constant regardless of room or corner. Ventilation is necessary. It's nice to be airtight but you still have to breathe. We installed ventilation tubes in the wall upstairs and downstairs. They are a comercial product and allow a homeowner to control the venting of their house very easily.
The second picture tries to show the roof rafters. Normally the roof rafters come down and rest on the top wall plates and tie in to ceiling joists. The weak link in the attic for insulation is right down in the apex where the rafter meets the wall. ( The space right over the walls in the attic) In order to create more space, we put another plate on top of the ceiling joists and then put the roof rafters on that. This isn't my idea. I'm sure some of you know that trick. Then you can stuff insulation in there full thickness and no need to compress it.
The attic has 24 or 30 (can't remember now) inches of insulation. Is it overkill? All depends on the heating and cooling bill you have. Just as it insulates against heat loss, it also insulates against heat in summer. It is amazing how cool the house is when outside temp is 85-90 F. I hope that helps.
Someone made reference to the water heater in one of the pictures on our website. Sort of by design that it is visible. It is not connected as a water heater. It is merely a water tank connected to a water jacket in the cook stove. We could have hidden it in a closet but it is a lot of useful mass. While the stove is running it dissipates heat and at night when the stove is cold, it still throws off some heat into the upstairs.
We put vapour barriers in modern UK timber framed homes but timber framing is only really catching on recently again after hundreds of years where we hardly did any.
For those unfamiliar with the reasons for vapour barriers they are there to stop vapour making its way through the warm area of the wall and condensing where it then soaks the insulation and timbers.
Then there's usually a breathable membrane on the outside of the panels that lets any that gets through to escape. The OSB covered panels are in effect the inner skin of the build and can be timber clad, brick outer skin or even stone like one I worked on near the centre of Keswick, most people will that that's lovely oldy worldy Lakeland slate that give it its strength.
The slate isn't structural, its just there so the tourists think it looks the same as the real slate built places that are cold, damp, and without a square wall in them
I've worked on quite a few timber framed buildings and would live in one tomorrow over any stone/brick built place. Modern timber framed housing is so much more efficient to heat and faster to build its quite a surprise to people moving into them.
In the US and Canada you seem to have more of a tradition for stick framing (lots of very interesting vids on Youtube where
Larry Haun goes through the details of building stick framed homes.) but in the UK we go for panel construction (about ten foot by ten foot being the biggest because any bigger panels on pallets is a problem for haulage widths) where the wall panels are built up in a workshop then erected on site, header plates put on top, ringbeams over the headers give more strength for the floors. Then we put another series of panels on those till we get to whatever height we need.
Not sure how many the maximum allowable number of floors in this construction cos although I've not worked on any above three I know there's higher that I've not worked on.
I suppose panel built (not sure what you call it over there) is more common over here because it rains so much, making the panels up in a workshop means its kept drier till its erected and from putting the soleplates for the ground floor panels to getting the roof timbers on so the roofing felt can be fitted only takes a few days anyway.
After that we have al the time we need to insulate the insides between the panels studs, fit vapour barrier, first fix carpentry, plumbing and electrical then plasterboard and so on.
I live in a brick built house but if I were to build one on a plot for myself I wouldn't be using brick or stone, no chance.
Nor would I be making any log cabin looking contraption either, far too labour intensive and it uses a LOT of timber.
A few years ago I helped a mate build a stick built garage after his other burnt down. Its now far and away more insulated, more draughtproof and drier than the house beside it that he lives in.
The only area of improvement would have been if we had dig the floor out and insulated that as well, he point being that its a garage and doesn't need it. Apart from the cold floor he could call it his spare room and put a bed in it.