Tutorial for a Scandi-sheath

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DKW

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Oct 6, 2008
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Denmark
I see Brancho allready answered Saves on Fuel's question.

Still a bit puzzled why half-tanned leather is so hard to get at in the UK tho.

As for thickness...I would suggest using 2 mm or 2,5 mm. The one in the tutorial was 2 mm.
It is a bit harder to work with, but does give a nice and rocksolid sheath when dry.
 

brancho

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Feb 20, 2007
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DKW I too like to use 2 to 2.5 mm
Here is one my latest sheaths

Elmburrps2.jpg


and the back


Elmburrps5.jpg


Hope you dont mind me posting it here
 

DKW

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Oct 6, 2008
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Denmark
Hope you dont mind me posting it here

Not at all :)
Any entry that adds to this tutorial is, and should be, more than welcome ;)

Like that the stitch is "tilted" to give room for a fullwidth beltloop/dangler.
Something i haven't done before, might try it out on the next one just to see what i think about it.
 

brancho

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Feb 20, 2007
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Like that the stitch is "tilted" to give room for a fullwidth beltloop/dangler.
Something i haven't done before, might try it out on the next one just to see what i think about it.

I wil put some pictures up soon on how its done as I will be making a shreath in a week or so.
 

DKW

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Oct 6, 2008
195
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Denmark
Hey thanks to DKW and Brancho for answering my question quicker then I could check.

Time to source some materials and tools

Thanks

You wont need to source many tools.
The plane is easily replaced by the knife you are making the sheath for in the first place. Just sharpen it enough, and learn to use it as such.
To shape the leather, all you need is a smoothedged teespoon, and then just play around with the different parts of the spoon to find out how its best used. Or a piece of antler, a ballpen (empty of course) etc etc.

As said earlier, a spacerwheel is easily replaced with a fork or the like.

The holemakinggadget, dunno the english word, is replaced by a drillbit. Simply drill the holes by hand.

All you really need to source, if you haven't allready, is some good leather-needles, with a cutting edge (triangular shape to the tip). The rest should be available in home allready. :)

Materials are the key issue here. Halfanned leather, and waxed thread. hen you are good to go :)

Have fun ;)
 
Feb 4, 2009
4
0
Scotland
Thanks once again DKR. Some sound advice on improvised tools.

The holemakinggadget, dunno the english word...

The word you are looking for is an Awl, and they come in a few different types. Have a load of drill bits kicking about for the moment. Suits my student budget...

Shall post some pictures when I've first finished the knife and sheath.
 

brancho

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Feb 20, 2007
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Here is how I mould my sheaths to have a smooth line from handle to tip.

The sheath is made preaty much the same as DKW's method but I add clay to the knife blade to mould the leather around.
first I attach two layers of card to the back of the blade and one to the front then wrap the knife in clingfilm.

sheathmouding2.jpg


I apply a some clay and mould it to the blade front to give a smooth curve

sheathmouding.jpg


sheathmouding3.jpg


I sanded this one down a little after it dried to get the transition a bit smother it looked like this when done

Samknife2.jpg


An important part of this design is to get a good moulded step at the back of teh sheath to act as a stop for the knife.

Kitknife7.jpg
 

brancho

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Feb 20, 2007
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Great tutorial! Very nice knife and sheath there brancho. Smart to use clay on the blade.

I got the idea from a book by Thomas löfgren HERE

Thanks for the tutorial I've been think about how to make one of these for a while.

Better get on and finish my scandi knife so I can have a go.

Richard

Richard what type of leather do you have and try and use 2 to 2.5 thick if you are going this style
 

brancho

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Feb 20, 2007
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To add a double dangler belt loop to a scandi sheath you:

First of all when you get the pattern you add a little extra leather to take the leather you will insert inside teh sheath. Start about 10 mm from the top of your sheath and depending on the length of the sheath stop about 25 mm above the blade

Danglerloop1.jpg


Make the insert the match the inside width of the D ring punch holes a couple of mm wider than the leather (tight fit required) about 15 mm down from the top of the sheath another row about 15 mm down and the last about 25 mm down like this

Danglerloop3.jpg


Cut the the leather for the D ring holder just longer that extra leather added to the sheath leather.
Then weave the leather for the D ring into the holes in teh sheath (this may require plyers to pull it throughit should be tight.

Danglerloop5.jpg


Then you make a belt loop you are aiming for about 50 mm width for the belt. You can sew the belt loop together (I used to) or rivet them.

Danglerloop4.jpg


Any question and is this useful
 
M

merrylegs

Guest
amazing - that is beautiful craftsmanship - its inspired me even more to get working on this if that was possible - just need to get my hand on some leather....where is the best place to go?
 

brancho

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Feb 20, 2007
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Whitehaven Cumbria
amazing - that is beautiful craftsmanship - its inspired me even more to get working on this if that was possible - just need to get my hand on some leather....where is the best place to go?

I use half tanned leather as the rawhide core stiffens to make a tough sheath that requires no liner.

For Half tanned leather Brisa.fi or Thegoodstuffshop.DK

Tou can use veg tanned leather but go for thinner leather sa 2 to2.5 mm thick as it will mould better you can get that from leprevo
 

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