Trapping and Snaring

[BigShot]

I've been wanting to learn to trap and snare for a while now, I've seen a few articles here and there about the traps and snares themselves, and read an interesting discussion somewhere about where on a rabbit run to place the snare to increase the chances of a good hold.

The thing is, I know the little knowledge I have is of little use without actually putting it into practice to learn things like where to place a trap, disguising the trap, funneling into a snare, baiting, scent avoidance, and other things besides.

How can I go about learning these skills? I live in North Manchester so I've not got tons of open space on my doorstep.

We get quite a few grey squirrels in my neighbourhood, some of the nearby parks have quiet areas with rabbits. I'm aware it might not be legal to trap there, plese do let me know if that kind of thing would be off-limits (I've no idea at all about the law on this front).

Other than that it's things like moorland further out of town, or some of the farms on the outskirts of the city.

So - how does one go about finding a place to learn to trap and not face getting into real hot water?
Are there any relevant laws, licences and so on I need to know about before I even think about trapping?
Is there anything I need to know before trying to trap the squirrels we get in gardens around here?

 

[jungle_re]

From memory,but please fell free to correct if im out of date.
I believe all snares now have to be non locking ie can release of there own accord. Alll traps and snares have to be visited and checke at least once every 24 hours. A search on the DEFRA website would be worthwhile. I would not even consider prcticing or seting up traps or snares in public parks or areas, best bet is to gain permission on some farm land that will let you carryout some pest control duties, however this may be difficult to gain without experience.

 

[BigShot]

To be honest I'd probably check the snares more often than every 24 hours. I'd probably set them up when heading for a day out, check them a few times through the day (binoculars to not get too close and disturb the area), and then take them home - or possibly leave them overnight and head back at dawn.

Agreed on your point about difficult to get permission on a farm without experience. I'd have expected a problem there. Would one need a licence of some sort to act in a pest control capacity like that too?

I'll have a look on the DEFRA site in a few minutes.

 

[novembeRain]

I'm one of few that regularly use snares (from what I can make out) they couldn't be more simple really, especially if you cheat like I do.

First of all, common sense, never set them in a field full of livestock or near houses (cats aren't too dis-similar to a rabbit). And stick to the rules, I check them every day which I think is right.

You'll rarely catch on the first day because of your scent on the snare / surrounding area, there's not much you can do about it really but it's important to check just in case and re - arrange any that have been knocked to one side.

I either tie them to the bottom of a barbed wire fence or, in a hedgerow, look for runs next to or under parts of the hedge that I can tie them to - I don't like stakes much but the principle's the same. Make sure it's not going to come off whatever it's tied to because that's a lost snare and meal and a rabbit running round with a snare attatched to it.

Snares set close to rabbit holes won't usually catch because the rabbits leave their holes carefully.

The bottom of the loop should be four fingers from the ground, if there's a bump in the grass take it from the top of that. Hold your hand flat with your fingers together (not your thumb) and at right angles to the floor, with your little finger on the floor, the bottom of the loop should just touch your top (index?) finger.

The loop (noose), clentch your fist - it should just fit through the noose (do this before you tie it at the required height).

You're about there really, it's just a case of practice.

If you find a wide run (say, 5" or slightly bigger) bush the grass or whatever up either side of the snare, the rabbit will go for the easiest route straight through the noose.

Use runs that aren't much wider than your hand and look well trodden down. If it's just for food for an outing, start setting them a day or two before you intend to go (time for the scent to go) and avoid touching them when you check them. Try to mark where they are to help you to remove them all when you leave, I tie bits of grass to the barbed wire above the snare.

If it's for pest control or a longer outing, remove any that aren't productive and put them elsewhere.

You may also want a tool to help to get the wire off the rabbit's neck, a pointed stick the thickness of your little finger works well but needs to be strong.

To make your own; I find electric fence wire to be best though I'm not sure about the legal side. Cut lengths from about your wrist to your shoulder, about two inches from the end turn the wire arround something twice so you have about a 5mm hole then wrap the free end back allong the wire to finish off. Now put the other end through this hole (loop) to make your noose.

HTH. Don't forget to look into the legal side and get permission to use snares where you intend to use them.

 

[Joonsy]

snaring rabbits is simple and very effective but it's one of those subjects where sadly there is loads of misleading information passed on to beginners which generally leads to confusion by the trainee practitioner, take a look at this link i've added from a professional snarer for the correct method, click on link below:-
http://www.thehuntinglife.com/html/sections/articles/ferreting_trapping/rabbit-snaring-rabbits.html

 

[IntrepidStu]

I thought that using snares was illegal. Can you use them on meadows/woodland owned by the council, ie "mersey valley" or forestry commision land. I honestly thought you couldnt use them ANYWHERE, not even your own land??

Its not so much the "how" to use them as the "is it legal".

Stu

 

[IntrepidStu]

Found this:

http://www.antisnaring.org.uk/snare_laws.html

 

[Joe]

Hi Bigshot,

I echo everything Novemberain has said about the techniques required to set the snare. As far as ratios go I've found that a good rule of thumb is to set out ten snares in order to catch one rabbit.
As I understand it self locking snares for anything are now illegal. Self locking rabbit snares just mean that the running eye is made from the end of the brass wire wrapped back round on itself. This means that as it tightens around something, the running eye is also pulled tight and out of shape meaning that even if the animal stops struggling, the snare won't spring open slightly and the tension remains the same. Pretty much what you're hoping to achieve if the rabbit is caught around the neck (quick death) but very painful and cruel if caught around a limb. Rabbit snares with a fixed eye in place means that the snare tightens and loosens itself without distorting the running eye, so once something is caught it's held fast but as long as it isn't struggling, the snare eases off a bit to ease any suffering but not enough to release your catch. Then it's up to you to dispatch the rabbit as humanely as possible. You still need the landowners permission to set these snares though! We always teach people to check snares twice per day, morning and evening, as a minimum. As has been mentioned already, marking your snare with something and checking it from a distance means that you won't trample the area with your scent and scare everything off.

I did a lot of snaring as a youngster using the old type of snare and often found some grisly sights the next morning which made me struggle with the ethics of it. However, I felt that as a meat eater I should become familiar with the whole process from 'pasture to plate' and learn how to feed myself from the wild so I tried to improve my technique and the frequency of my checks to combat that part of it. Once I started using the new running eye method I experienced far fewer gory sights and had a lot more control over how the animal was dispatched once caught.

One 'training' method I've used in the past is a snare with a deliberately weakened running eye so that once something is caught and the snare is pulled tight, the eye breaks open meaning the animal escapes unharmed but you know that your trapping technique would've been successful if you needed it to be.

Don't forget though - you need the land owners permission to set anything, the right equipment and a responsible and sensible attitude to the lives of other creatures (which I'm sure you already have).

 

[crazydave]

as you're oop north have you checked what the council is up to? I know in northumberland and accross the top they have a target to trap/snare/dispatch 10k of grey squirrels a year so they may not be bothered about a few around your neck of the woods.

as a kid I went shooting squirrels which was a challenge. a shotgun blast to rattle the dray and send them scurrying along the branches to be picked off with airguns.

simplest method though would be make half a dozen squirrel poles, leave to season and lose your scent then place them along observed squirrel runs. when not in use you can stash them.

rabbit wise commercial trappers will lay snares along the side of a field laying 200+ you could practise with figure 4's spring snares, counterweights etc.. all of which can be left relaxed when not wanted. only issue is beware you dont get any cats. allthough dodgy chinese takaways used to use cat instead of rabbit so as long as you hide the evidence. meat eater though so a more sour flesh

 

[Joe]

Hi Crazydave,

Only thing is with the 'survival' methods of trapping practice such as fig 4's, spring snares, pole lifts etc is that they would be illegal in the uk unless used in a genuine survival situation. Snaring is legal as long as you've got permission and the snare conforms to the legal standard set - brass wire, six strands, fixed running eye, firmly fixed to a stake in the ground. Although the home made springing versions, deadfalls etc can be more effective in the right hands there are too many type variations and moving parts to ensure unneccesary suffering if set badly. It's much harder to regulate I suppose. For example, the whole theory behind a non locking eye on a snare reducing suffering doesn't mean anything if the creature is dangling by a hind leg all night.

Not sure on the legality behind non lethal home made devices such as cage traps.

Glad you bought up the cat thing. I've never caught a cat but I did catch other things I didn't intend to catch in my youthful snaring days due to the fact that runs are often used by all manner of other creatures from pheasants up to deer. Traps are completely indiscriminate so if there is any chance of catching someones pet, it would be best to avoid that area if only practicing.

 

[crazydave]

I used to teach snares as a matter of course then I found out that the kids would practise at home hoping to catch the neighbours cat. i always teach check em at least twice a day. first thing in the morning and last thing at night.

they aways wanted to build man traps so we made an elephant snare once

good lessons in mechanics. I used to judge that if it was a good trap in a good location it was worth some food. the looks of joy and bewilderment as they find a fresh trout hanging from a spring snare is priceless.

 

[badkarma]

Not sure too much on the snaring side of things. but as far as traping grey squirrels goes if its in your own garden you can do it. You will have to check traps at least once a day. If you are gona use a live trap you will have to find a way of getting the squirrel out to kill it. It is illegal to relesae them back in to the wild. I find a air pistol is the best way to kill them while they are still in the trap. Try getting one out to hit it with a preast with out them bitting you and they hurt. You will need a good air pistlol I use a crossman ratbuster or ratcatcher ( which is a small rifle ). Both run on CO2 bulbs and come in .22. You have to buy them now from a gun shop and either will cost around £100. The ratcatcher is a good choice for using in a back garden with a scope and silencer. hope this helps

 

[ridge rover]

Try this link for a very easy trap to build. Its called a bird trap, but you can get other annimals also. Its a live annimal trap made with sticks and ajust a little cordage! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iR_3zWd0hA





Here's a trapping link, not Bushcraft, but some trapping info. http://www.buckshotscamp.com/





And now for a good trap trigger most haven't heard of! http://www.nps.gov/archive/gosp/research/prom_peg.htm


http://wildwoodsurvival.com/survival/traps/frictionpoint/index.html

Scroll down after intro picture, for a forum discussion and more pictures. http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/forum/viewtopic/id/2458

 

[crazydave]

that peg idea is pretty good. it says dont use a metal blade but has anyone worked out if you can rough it up?

answer to my own question is apparently the sak saw

http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/forum/viewtopic/id/2458

http://wildwoodsurvival.com/survival/traps/frictionpoint/index.html

http://bill-hay.com/Lake.htm

 

[BigShot]

Wow - I've not logged on for a while so missed the latter part of this thread entirley.

Thanks a million to all who've taken the time to type up their responses and all the links that you've been posting.

Always nice to have the extra food for thought.

Still not started trapping or hunting, though I expect I'll be treating myself to an air rifle pretty soon so should start bagging some smaller game (greys and bunnies at a guess) which I'm very much looking forwards to.

Cheers again.