Swedish army wool trousers

[The Cumbrian]

While it's true that wool can absorb about 33% of it's weight in water before it starts to feel wet, and it will retain most of it's insulative properties at this ratio, once it starts to feel wet it's very wet, and will need to be dried out. This may take a while.
I agree that the best shell for extreme cold is a windproof, very breathable cotton shell, but personally I would use synthetic insulation layers for their wicking and fast drying properties. The base layer material, as long as it's thin, can be either wool or synthetic. It's a fact that synthetic is smellier, but if you're working hard for a few days or weeks it'll take a beagle to say which stinks the worst.
I'd also opt for windproof trousers over a base layer, especially if you're male. I don't care how well you're endowed, but if you're trousers aren't windproof you'll end up with a frozen acorn and a wallnut inbetween your legs if the cold wind is allowed access to your bits.

Cheers, Michael.

 

[Hoodoo]

I have the Swedish and Codet wool pants but my absolute favorite by far are Filson's. If you have the moola, they are awesome wool pants. I wear mine ice fishing.

 

[treadlightly]

If your woollen trousers are sodden wet, either you're not letting enough air around them to let body heat evaporate the damp, or you're constantly reimmersing them in something I don't see how the layer system would work any better if it's the latter

However, they can be made much more showerproof by simply relanolinising them (threads on forum) or simply soaking them in a bath or sink full of cold water with loads of fabric conditioner added. Let them soak for a couple of hours or so, let them drain, wring out wrapped up in a bath towel and then air dry.

cheers,
Toddy

I'd be interested to know what it is in the fabric conditioner that helps to make the wool water resistant. Also, is it more effective than using lanolin?

 

[treadlightly]

I have the Swedish and Codet wool pants but my absolute favorite by far are Filson's. If you have the moola, they are awesome wool pants. I wear mine ice fishing.

Which do you rate more highly, the Swedish or the Codet?

 

[Hoodoo]

That's a tough one. I think the Swedish pants are more versatile because of the cargo pockets and maybe a little warmer (slightly denser weave maybe). It also depends on how you use them. The Swedish pants are probably better for active treking (they slide nicely into my Steger mukluks) but I like the wide cuff on the Codets because they slip easily over my Mickey Mouse boots that I wear ice fishing. So your preference might depend if you want a wide are narrow cuff. I generally prefer a wide cuff.

 

[Toddy]

I'd be interested to know what it is in the fabric conditioner that helps to make the wool water resistant. Also, is it more effective than using lanolin?

I have no idea ............where's Mr Fenna ? he might know. I just know that it works

I also know that it smells a blooming sight better than raw sheeps fleece oil though It's also a lot easier to apply.

cheers,
Toddy

 

[Chris the Cat]

No rinsing of the conditioner then Mary?
Just wring and air dry?
Cheers.
Chris.

 

[gunnix]

I understand what you're saying, but the wool even when wet is warm No?
And, if the other fabrics could dry out in the wind, why couldn't the wool ?

On the other hand, yeah, woollen longjohns and waterproofs on top would be comfortable but they get sweaty and damp inside too.

cheers,
M

Wool might be warm when wet but it's not great to wear damp clothes for days..

Polyester underwear is just as warm as wool when wet. I have tried it when jumping trough the ice a few times. Some people think wool is definately warmer but I don't think so..

Synthetic or mixed natural/synthetic fabrics dry a lot faster then wool (or cotton). In low temperatures this difference is clearly noticeable.

Waterproofs are only to be used in really wet conditions and taken off as soon as possible. I meant that breathable synthetic pants would have been much better, as they dry quickly.

I also prefer wool though, so I just try to avoid the circumstances where wool isn't that good.

@Hoodoo: How thick is the Filson wool pants compared to the swedish army pants?

 

[forestwalker]

@Hoodoo: How thick is the Filson wool pants compared to the swedish army pants?

IIRC the Filson macinaw material is a bit heavier than the m58 stuff (850 vs. 700 g/m^2).

 

[LM J]

forestwalker, how are you converting ounces to g/m^2?

 

[C_Claycomb]

dunno how he is doing the conversion, but doing ounces per sq yard to grams per sq metre shouldn't be all that tricky.

Filson wool = 24oz = 680g

1sq yd = 0.836 sq m

680/0.836 = 813.4g/m^2
hmmm

Yeah, how are you doing the conversion?

 

[Hoodoo]

I refuse to cut my pants up and weigh them.

 

[forestwalker]

dunno how he is doing the conversion, but doing ounces per sq yard to grams per sq metre shouldn't be all that tricky.

Filson wool = 24oz = 680g

1sq yd = 0.836 sq m

680/0.836 = 813.4g/m^2
hmmm

Yeah, how are you doing the conversion?

A bit too quickly in my head?

 

[C_Claycomb]

A bit too quickly in my head?

Sorry. Sometimes the engineer in me refuses to stay in his box

 

[treadlightly]

But how many square metres make up a pair of trousers??

 

[C_Claycomb]

errr.
The internet is a lousy medium for humour...I can't tell whether you are joking with that question, or serious

Or even whether you mean, "how many square metres of fabric do you need to make trousers?" or "how much fabric is left in the trousers once it is all cut out?"
Why would the latter matter?

 

[John Fenna]

I'd be interested to know what it is in the fabric conditioner that helps to make the wool water resistant. Also, is it more effective than using lanolin?

Are you refering to Nikwax Woolwash?
You can use their Cotton proof on most naturals to good effect as well but then wash it in wooolwash to avoid washing the proofing out again!That contains natural waxes - dont ask me which - Nikwax are proud of their green credentials....so it should be good stuff!

I have never used just lanolin so cannot comment of a comparison.

 

[forestwalker]

I have never used just lanolin so cannot comment of a comparison.

I use the re-lanolining stuff sold for wool based cloth diaper outer pants. Hmm, did that make sense? When using cloth diapers one nowadays use an outer pant (imagine Tarzans loincloth if he had used velcro) and some are made from wool. These need to be re-impregnated with lanolin when you wash them, and the baby supply stores sell the stuff by the bottle.

 

[big_swede]

I use the re-lanolining stuff sold for wool based cloth diaper outer pants. Hmm, did that make sense? When using cloth diapers one nowadays use an outer pant (imagine Tarzans loincloth if he had used velcro) and some are made from wool. These need to be re-impregnated with lanolin when you wash them, and the baby supply stores sell the stuff by the bottle.

Hmm, Have I written about this at a few forums I wonder...

 

[treadlightly]

errr.
The internet is a lousy medium for humour...I can't tell whether you are joking with that question, or serious

Or even whether you mean, "how many square metres of fabric do you need to make trousers?" or "how much fabric is left in the trousers once it is all cut out?"
Why would the latter matter?

Semi-serious. Couldn't resist it. But there is a serious question behind my clumsy attempt at humour. There were discussions about the weight per square metre of the fabric and I did wonder how much the trousers themselves weigh.

For instance, I recently bought a pair of thick tweed trousers which weigh 760g. My guess is that the Swedish army ones are a fair bit more than that.