Anyone got a knife from Steve at SWC KNives? http://swc-handmade-knives.com/ His work looks good (looking for a Woodlore clone) and it appears that he is UK based but is not easy to tell from his website (prices appear in £ though). Secondly, I am thinking of getting one of his kits with a pre-shaped and tempered blade. I will need to shape and fit the scales - can anyone tell me if I will need specialist tools or equipment? Thanks.
SWC Handmade Knives - special tools required?
- Thread starter John Boy
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Epoxy glue (24hr) and a good selection of wet and dry should do fine.. some files and a saw would make it easier. SWC are in the uk!
let us know how you get on!
let us know how you get on!
A coping saw, a drill, pillar if you can, epoxy and sandpaper, lots of in various grits 
I personally prefer using 3M P60 than a file for rough shaping of wood.
I personally prefer using 3M P60 than a file for rough shaping of wood.Making the handle is a lot of fun, unlike the sheath! Just remember to put 2 layers of masking tape on the blade to protect it and protect you!
John Boy said:
Yup, thats pretty much it,
Epoxy the scales on and the rivets into place, then once its all dry - set about making the handle fit your hand.
Ask Steve about any engraving you might want on the blade - he's superb - mine has turned into a real gem.
ATB
Ogri the trog
Rivets are not difficult but need care. If you have stainless rod/rivets throw them away, they are too hard for wood but OK for synthetics like Tufnol.
How to fix rivets
1. Make sure the handle slabs are flat and the same thickness all round. Sand them on a piece of sand paper placed on a flat surface. Take one slab, put a few small drops of superglue on the tang and position the handle slab on it and let it dry form a few minutes.
2. Drill all the holes as squarely as you can, a drill press is very useful for this using the holes in the tang as a guide.
3. Knock off the handle slab with a sharp rap and repeat with the drilling second slab.
4. Take both slabs and join them together with the rivets. Shape the front of the handle slabs and make sure they are nice and smooth as you can't do much with that bit when they are glued to the blade.
5. After shaping, put plenty of glue on the handle slabs and tang, use 24 hour epoxy. Insert the rivets into one slab, use them as a guide to place them on the tang, put the other slab on the other side and tap the rivets through so they go through both slabs and the tang. Clamp firmly until set.
6. Once the glue is set, knock the rivets out with a nail or punch. Use files and course sandpaper to shape the handle but not too smooth.
7. If you have thrown away the stainless rivets and got brass rod instead, put the
rod in the holes, they may need to be drilled out and cut the brass rod 2mm proud of the handle on both sides. Make sure both ends are square.
8. Use a blow torch to heat the brass rod to red heat and allow to cool slowly.
9. Counter sink the rivet holes and lanyard hole slighty about 0.5 mm deep.
10. Here comes the tricky bit. Put the annealed brass rod into the holes with 2mm proud on both sides. Place the brass onto a hard firm surface such as a hammer head held in a vice and hit the brass rod squarely with another hammer.
Hit it a few more times to mushroom the head of the rod, turn over and do the same on the other side. If you are using a ball pein hammer, the best type for this, once the rod is spread, use the ball end to shape the head of the rivet into a dome and filling in the countersink. Be careful not to split the wood or put too many dents in it.
11. Once the riveting is done, use files to file it flush and use sand paper with a firm backing like a rubber to sand the rivet and not to undercut the wood around the rivet.
12. Once its nice and smooth, Bobs your uncle.
13. I recommend Corby Rivets if this is your first time, they screw on!
How to fix rivets
1. Make sure the handle slabs are flat and the same thickness all round. Sand them on a piece of sand paper placed on a flat surface. Take one slab, put a few small drops of superglue on the tang and position the handle slab on it and let it dry form a few minutes.
2. Drill all the holes as squarely as you can, a drill press is very useful for this using the holes in the tang as a guide.
3. Knock off the handle slab with a sharp rap and repeat with the drilling second slab.
4. Take both slabs and join them together with the rivets. Shape the front of the handle slabs and make sure they are nice and smooth as you can't do much with that bit when they are glued to the blade.
5. After shaping, put plenty of glue on the handle slabs and tang, use 24 hour epoxy. Insert the rivets into one slab, use them as a guide to place them on the tang, put the other slab on the other side and tap the rivets through so they go through both slabs and the tang. Clamp firmly until set.
6. Once the glue is set, knock the rivets out with a nail or punch. Use files and course sandpaper to shape the handle but not too smooth.
7. If you have thrown away the stainless rivets and got brass rod instead, put the
rod in the holes, they may need to be drilled out and cut the brass rod 2mm proud of the handle on both sides. Make sure both ends are square.
8. Use a blow torch to heat the brass rod to red heat and allow to cool slowly.
9. Counter sink the rivet holes and lanyard hole slighty about 0.5 mm deep.
10. Here comes the tricky bit. Put the annealed brass rod into the holes with 2mm proud on both sides. Place the brass onto a hard firm surface such as a hammer head held in a vice and hit the brass rod squarely with another hammer.
Hit it a few more times to mushroom the head of the rod, turn over and do the same on the other side. If you are using a ball pein hammer, the best type for this, once the rod is spread, use the ball end to shape the head of the rivet into a dome and filling in the countersink. Be careful not to split the wood or put too many dents in it.
11. Once the riveting is done, use files to file it flush and use sand paper with a firm backing like a rubber to sand the rivet and not to undercut the wood around the rivet.
12. Once its nice and smooth, Bobs your uncle.
13. I recommend Corby Rivets if this is your first time, they screw on!
The generosity of one knife maker giving instructions on putting together another makers parts is fantastic... that's the equivalent of a Mercedes dealer telling you how to sort out your BMW.
Shing, you are a gentleman - have a rep point to go with my respect!
Red
Shing, you are a gentleman - have a rep point to go with my respect!
Red
Hi You All,
I have emailed SWC a couple times about getting one of his blades/kits but I have never got a response.
I was wondering if any of you all know: Is he really busy or hard to get a hold of? I was wondering since I have Hotmail email and I notice he has aol and I was wondering if the emails were getting thru.
Thanks in advance for any info. :You_Rock_
I have emailed SWC a couple times about getting one of his blades/kits but I have never got a response.
I was wondering if any of you all know: Is he really busy or hard to get a hold of? I was wondering since I have Hotmail email and I notice he has aol and I was wondering if the emails were getting thru.
Thanks in advance for any info. :You_Rock_
Posting again to see if anyone knows if SWC is still in business.
Emailed him at the address on the website over about the last 10 days and no response.
Emailed him at the address on the website over about the last 10 days and no response.
Shing said:
Would the some apply if using the corby rivets (supplied in the kit from Shing)?I only ask as they seem almost soft enough to leave in whilst shaping the handle.
M
Martyn1
Guest
Sorry for reviving this topic, but would anyone know the address and telephonenumber of SWC handmade knives?
I am trying to contact him. If you do have this information, please either post it here or pm it to me...
I am trying to contact him. If you do have this information, please either post it here or pm it to me...
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