Steel type.

[Fat ferret]

Hi all, got a few old spanners. I know the only way to find out is try but anyone any idea what steel they will be and wether it will harden and temper? Ran out of old files and they were for scrap anyway.

By the way one has 5/8 and 3/4 on either end but they are in no way for 5/8 or 3/4 inch nuts. They are much bigger well over an inch. Any idea what this means? Just interested.

Cheers, Richard.

 

[crosslandkelly]

There were two standards years ago, I believe BS and Whitworth. Both were totally different. I'm sure the engineers on the forum will put me right.

 

[swotty]

There were two standards years ago, I believe BS and Whitworth. Both were totally different. I'm sure the engineers on the forum will put me right.

I think there was AF (across flats) too......

 

[Dave Budd]

depending on how old they are, they could be anything from mild steel to a medium carbon chrome vanadium spring steel. If they are chrome plated then don't bother, just bin them (the plating is VERY bad for your health if you heat it up, so don't go forging it. You can pickle it off, but that requires nasty acids). If the are not chromed then your best bet is to cut a bit off, forge it out and harden it in oil to see if it will harden then try water if it only toughens).

I made this one years ago and the spanner had to be quenched in 'super quench' (brine solution with dishwasher soap in it) to toughen up, even then as hardened a file still bit into it.

That's the trouble with scrap steel, you never know what you have until you have used it

if you find it does harden fully, if a file skids off then start tempering at 200C and see if the edge chips, if it does then temper 10C hotter increasingly until the edge no longer chips. If the hardening gets to the file almost bits then start at 150C. If the file just bites then don't bother tempering

 

[crosslandkelly]

I think there was AF (across flats) too......

You're quite right, AF and Whitworth, Cheers.

 

[Fat ferret]

Cheers Dave, no chrome so will give it a go. Any idea what markings mean?

Just popped out to the shed and spent 20 minutes with the angle grinder. Have left end on as a bolster. Now will grind the handle end flat and drill some holes so I can fit some scales if we get that far. My spanner was marked 'billings made in U.S.A' and I have left that bit on.

I know there is a good chance it won't harden well or at all but not too bothered as it was in the scrap heap anyway. I will post more pics if I get past this stage.

Here we go.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/80226784@N07/8378651012/

 

[monkey spanner]

My spanner was marked 'billings made in U.S.A'

In that case it will be U.N.C.........Yep I'm a nerd, I could go into thread angles, pitches Etc, but it's just to boring.

 

[Mesquite]

Cheers Dave, no chrome so will give it a go. Any idea what markings mean?

Just popped out to the shed and spent 20 minutes with the angle grinder. Have left end on as a bolster. Now will grind the handle end flat and drill some holes so I can fit some scales if we get that far. My spanner was marked 'billings made in U.S.A' and I have left that bit on.

I know there is a good chance it won't harden well or at all but not too bothered as it was in the scrap heap anyway. I will post more pics if I get past this stage.

Here we go.

Even if it doesn't harden up it's a nice looking knife. Nice work on it

 

[The Edge]

If they are chrome plated then don't bother, just bin them (the plating is VERY bad for your health if you heat it up, so don't go forging it.

Hmmm,Did'nt know that.Was aware though that the fumes off heated Zinc are seriously dangerous [Potentially fatal !].

if a file skids off then start tempering at 200C and see if the edge chips

How to check for edge chipping ?.

Just popped out to the shed and spent 20 minutes with the angle grinder. Have left end on as a bolster. Now will grind the handle end flat and drill some holes so I can fit some scales if we get that far.

See you've made a start [And looking good !].As you seem to have done,I might have suggested shaping this by material removal [I do'nt have a forge available myself].

Now will grind the handle end flat and drill some holes so I can fit some scales if we get that far. 

I do'nt think you'll be able to drill without first annealing,Possible with a drill press/Carbide tipped bits as is I guess,but you'd be starting to get into the realms of specialist engineering.

How about wrapping the handle with leather cord ?.

 

[Dave Budd]

The most common (and simplest) methd to test edge toughness is known as the 'brass rod test'. Basically, you sharpen the edge (don't go overboard, just a quick edge) and with a good light shining press it side on to a brass rod. The aim is to see the edge flexing as you press it onto the rod. If the edge flexes and comes back to good then the blade is ok, if it chips then it is too hard and if it stays bent (with only moderate pressure) then it is too soft to hold a decent edge.

With regard to the handle, you may not need to go buying really expensive cobalt bits. First try just clamping the blade in a vice and then heating the tang with a blowtorch until it turns grey. Then drill as normal, preferably with press and slow speed. If that doesn't work, then try a masonary bit I've reground masonary bits so they work better too

 

[demographic]

There's a bloke in the US who makes quite a few nice looking "Wrench Knives" but I have no idea about carbon or other contents come to that.
Like these.

As for the sizes of the open ends being way bigger than the quoted size well that's because Whitworth sizes refer to the bolt diameter instead of the across the flats of the head.