Shed security advice and suggestions needed

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Whittler Kev

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 8, 2009
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March, UK
bushcraftinfo.blogspot.com
I just had someone PM me about beefing up their shed security on a 4x3 window.
I thought I'd share my reply and open it up to comments and suggestions from others

When I did a shop door, I just used 1" box welded onto a frame made of more 1" box (my mate makes the chairs you see in restaurants and pubs so I had good access to it). As the shop owner wasn't allowed a permanent fixture, I welded 4 eye bolts to it and the put 3/4" L shaped bolts through the frame and into the brick work by about 6". The security railing was lifted onto the L bolts after they were inserted into the 4 holes. He then put 2 good padlocks onto two of the bolts (which were of course through the eye bolts). A 4x4 tried to pull the grill off...unsuccessfully.
I did suggest putting round bar in the box with bearings on either end so it couldn't be sawed or ground but weight was an issue as it couldn't be made permanent.
For a shed, most people (on site, etc) put concrete reinforcing mesh over the windows. Its put on the window and then flat steel either welded over the edges to bolt through the shed with( coach bolts with the heads on the outside) or just bolted on trapping the mesh beneath it.
Remember, if someone wants to get in they will. Most security is put up as a deterrent to opportunists.
 
not so much securing the window but those game cameras / stealth cameras are great for around sheds garages , there so small and can be hidden anywhere inside and out , they are motion sensitive and can be set accordingly to your needs also . Night mode on some of them is awsome quality . Great in an area that is prone to crime to catch the culprets , aslong as you do hide it well as they'll nick the camera as its powered by doubleAA'S and not mains .

i590_64.jpg
 
get hold of one of those baby listening devices, the ones that you plug into a socket. plug it in in the shed and keep the speaker one in the house, plug it in where and when you need it...lounge, kitchen, bedroom etc.....instant warning if someone is trying to break into your shed / garage.
 
My only comment would be, how strong is the shed and whats he trying to keep safe?
When some people tried nicking petrol from the allotments, they broke padlocks off most peoples sheds and if that failed they just took the wall out. Now we only have a pretty weak lock on the door to stop people borrowing tools without returning them and keep it shut (except the rotovator is chained to a hook in the base so no ones getting away with that)
 
It is my shed and it does have power

The shed its self is more of an outbuilding it is brick built about 4metres by 2.5 - 3 metres.

ATM I have a strong wooden door that has a yale lock a 5 lever mortice lock and a padlock and bolt on it

my main concern is the window which is 4' x 3' and single pain of class thick! my thoughts were maybe a wrought iron grate (hence speaking to Kev) but thinking along the lines of security glass and maybe wire mesh now

My tools are in there ATM and its like a mini workshop getting some more stuff soon so want to beef up security prior to new shinies coming

any suggestions?

Dave
 
Security?

Nightmare.

Worked in an isolated workshop 1 mile fromthe nearest road on a farm.

The tools all went one night - inc the lathe.

Conditions from insurance oc included separate lockable area for tools, and all imobile tools like the lathes and welding kit to be bolted to the concrete floors and the heads welded.

We used a separate tool shed/ building of brick.

3mm steel plate on door, bricked up the window.

Tools disapeared again.

Fitted RSJs as door frame and internal bombproof hinges, oh and chub locks and a second 3mm sheet on the inside of the door...

Tools disapeared again.

Removed the slates they left on the roof,

Replaced joists with RSJ frames which I concreted into the floors, fitted 1" thick wooden shuttering, then cast a solid reinforced concrete roof and laid the tiles on it when it cured

Returned to find the Chub locks full of araldite and iron filings....

Insurance co refused to renew policy if it included workshop with the farm.

Snap on loved us.

I believe the best security is to make sure NO ONE knows there is anything there worth selling, and to make each tool unique and easily identifiable as yours to anyone who sees it.
 
I have been looking for one of these for looking over our pheasant shoot, good post, i take it it doesnt go click when someone walks by?

heres the 1 I have £109 the can go up to a silly amount of money tho £300+, type stealth cam into google and loads of brands come up . Pick them up cheap at game fairs I saw mine for £70 after I bought it . Mine is currently in a wood up a tree looking at a pheasant pen.

http://www.google.co.uk/products/ca...og_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CCQQ8wIwAQ#
 
From locking motorbikes up I would recommend using a decent lock and chain to lock valuables up with if the sheds a bit shonky. That is if you can use a good ground anchor.
Almax chains urinate in most other manufacturers offering from a great height.

I'm as tight as a gnats chuff but paid for one of them to protect my GSXR.

Not blown away by alarms as most of them can be disabled with little effort and many people ignore them out of habit anyway.
 
My outbuildings are alarmed on a separate circuit within the house alarm. That alarm is always on after dark. If I am out, it phones my mobile and my neighbours houses. There is wireless day / night CCTV and floodlights on all the outbuildings. All that stuff can be bought and installed by any competent DIYer.

The locks are, as Kev says, coach bolted right through the most solid part of the door and bolted into solid brick


Padlock and hasp by British Red, on Flickr

As for windows - I just bricked them up!

Red
 
You can buy a caravan alarm system for under £30 it does nothing to stop the beggars getting in but acts as a deterrant to those looking to break in, especially when there are other sheds to choose from (I live in a council estate). The other factor is no idiot wants to continue breaking in when the siren is screaming and the light is flashing.
 
Replace the glass with Polycarbonate or thick Acrylic sheeting. Can get in DIY stores or cut to size from supplier on the net. link below, great people to deal with (no connection to company , just happy customer)
http://www.theplasticpeople.co.uk/polycarbonate-c-22.html

Have three locks all different types (top,middle, bottom) on the door.

PolyCarb isnt much better in my opinion unless you drill and screw it into the frame, under the beeding. My Family business is Glazing and we used to look after a few schools in some rough areas. We replaced the same window 11 times one summer...ejits. We then tried pollycarb and they just pushed them out due to the flex it has. We then screwed the polycarb into the frame so they just used turbo lighters and burnt holes in them, chimps....

In the end the only thing that stops them is bars screwed into the frame. If you find your self over ellesmereport way PM me and ill get you a good price on some second hand georgian wired rough cast. It wont stand up to a hammer but will maybe put some of them off whilst the bards actually stop them getting in.

Oh and those rape alarms with the pull sting are good, secure one end to the wwall and the other to the door, hide it so when it does go off they cant find it. Shame it cant be a pull ring for something else ;)
 
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Just noticed your location..... Now I see the problem! When I was up there, in Salford it was real bad. Local chip shop was clad in steel and got your order squashed through a small window in the steel plate! Local pub glazed in Polycarb and Vigilante meets held there cause the law did little... Nasty.
 

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