Sharpening a draw knife

[Elines]

I bought a second hand draw knife at the local market and it needs a new edge. I have searched on the Internet and in this forum (gone back two years) but all the sharpening methods that I have found involve either:

• Bench grinder (EDIT to give correct name) - which I don't have - unless you count putting a grinding wheel in an electric drill - which I have never found successful when trying to sharpen other stuff
• Freehand and maintaining a constant angle

I guess the non-electrical method is what I will have to do but don't hold out much hope of success doing it free hand.

So ... what are the alternatives eg is there a simple jig I can make that will give me the right angle when using a file, or wet and dry paper (if so I would need clear guidance on angles etc to construct it) or is there another way

Once I have a sound edge I am reasonably confident that I will be able to maintain it eg by stropping/using the (then) existing angle as a guide - problem is getting that angle/edge to start with.

 

[dwardo]

My draw knife is groudn with a flat bottom and a convex upper. I just use a version of BritishReds £5 sharpening kit for the top bevel and then just true the bottom flat with a stone. Just wear gloves and go easy!

 

[Salaud]

Take a 1/2" "bulldog style" paperclip, (they are the ones that look like a black pyramid with two shiny metal handles) clamp it to the rear of your blade and this will maintain the blade at an approximate angle of 10 degrees to your stone/hone. makes life a lot easier and is cheap/free

 

[Kepis]

My draw knife is groudn with a flat bottom and a convex upper. I just use a version of BritishReds £5 sharpening kit for the top bevel and then just true the bottom flat with a stone. Just wear gloves and go easy!

Exactly the same here, works a treat

 

[Ian S]

Depends how much work it needs....

1) Sharpening can be done with the British Red kit referred to above, or you can use a waterstone or oilstone if you have them. Either sharpen by:

a) going side to side on the bevelled edge - WATCH YOUR FINGERS!!!

b) putting the stones etc on a block of wood narrower than the distance between the drawknife's handles, and work the bevelled edge backwards and forwards.

2) Grinding a drawknife is a horrible job to do (I've just ground an old drawknife). You could use method b) and a really really rough diamond or waterstone, but it will take hours. The best bet is to try and persuade someone with a bench grinder and bench-mounted belt sander to do it for you. The problem is that they have a long cutting edge, and there doesn't seem to be any easy way to hold a constant grind angle, at least with the kit I have.

Good luck

 

[HillBill]

Send it to me and i'll sort it for you, for the cost of the return postage.

I can do flat bevels or slightly hollow bevels or one each side which i find works excellently.

PM me if interested.

Mark

 

[Elines]

Send it to me and i'll sort it for you, for the cost of the return postage.

I can do flat bevels or slightly hollow bevels or one each side which i find works excellently.

PM me if interested.

Mark

Pm sent - thanks

 

[Elines]

Take a 1/2" "bulldog style" paperclip, (they are the ones that look like a black pyramid with two shiny metal handles) clamp it to the rear of your blade and this will maintain the blade at an approximate angle of 10 degrees to your stone/hone. makes life a lot easier and is cheap/free

Thanks for this suggestion - I was trying to work out how it might work when I saw Hill Buills's offer and am currently exploring that

 

[Salaud]

Thanks for this suggestion - I was trying to work out how it might work when I saw Hill Buills's offer and am currently exploring that

You are welcome.. I should rip his arm off a generous offer.. far better than buggering around with paperclips.. As for how it works. I guess a pic is worth a thousand words.... but.....simply put, the clip attaches to the top of the blade, which forms a 10 degree ramp on the reverse so you just slide the whole lot across the stone keeping the ramp in contact and thats it...a consistent angle,which leads to easier sharpening..

 

[Elines]

You are welcome.. I should rip his arm off a generous offer.. far better than buggering around with paperclips.. As for how it works. I guess a pic is worth a thousand words.... but.....simply put, the clip attaches to the top of the blade, which forms a 10 degree ramp on the reverse so you just slide the whole lot across the stone keeping the ramp in contact and thats it...a consistent angle,which leads to easier sharpening..

Yes think I thought that's what you meant and I was in the middle of taking photos etc to post and check - but now I don't have to!