Shark designs Razor sharp Kits

[Quixoticgeek]

I am in need of a better sharpening setup than I currently have. I've been using a DC3 to sharpen my knives (Svord Peasant Mini & Mora Clipper knife), but I'm struggling to get a really good edge on the blades. After paying to have them sharpened by Mr Budd at the bushmoot, I realise just how far off sharp I really was.

As with every poor worker, I'm blaming the tools. I suspect that my DC3 isn't enough for the job. Uncle Ray of course suggests a set of Japanese Water stones in 3 grits (this is what Mr Budd used), which looks lovely, and certainly does the job. But it's not exactly a portable setup, nor is it a cheap one. Doing a bit of research I've come across a couple of kits from Shark Designs/Beaver Bushcraft. Their
Razor Shark - Diamond Pocket Field Sharpening Kit and Razor Shark - Field Sharpening Kit - Deluxe. Has anyone used either of these kits? How did you get on? My concern with the Deluxe kit is that the stones are quite small. Is this likely to be a major problem for sharpening of basic bushcraft knives? I'm not planning on sharpening machetes with this sort of setup. It's just for my knifes.

Are either of these worth the money? Is the Deluxe version worth it over the diamond kit? Are there other setups I should be considering?

Thanks

J

 

[Paulm]

The diamond stone supplied with that kit isn't particularly large would be my concern, 5" x 1", although it is double sided.

For use when out and about I use double sided DMT diafolds, they are very packable and the handles unfold to make holding and using them very easy compared to a handless small diamond plate. The red/green one I use for just refreshing an edge, the black/blue will restore bevels and take out chips. At home I also strop after the green grit but don't bother when out and about.

A cheaper alternative would be wet and dry paper wrapped around or stuck to pieces of plywood or similar, would need replacing now and again of course but very effective all the same, maybe carry one piece of ply and keep two or three grits of paper just folded or rolled up and wrap round the ply as and when needed ?

Cheers, Paul

 

[MartiniDave]

You can often pick up decent sized stones for a snip at car boot sales. The last ones I bought were 50p each. Also check out Robin Wood's sharpening videos on youtube, there are some good ideas in them.

Dave

 

[Tank]

I have the kit and I find it really good and simple to use, if you watch marks demo vids its a very easy to get a great edge on your blades.

for a portable setup I dont think you can go wrong getting it if your happy to pay the price.

 

[Quixoticgeek]

I have the kit and I find it really good and simple to use, if you watch marks demo vids its a very easy to get a great edge on your blades.

for a portable setup I dont think you can go wrong getting it if your happy to pay the price.

As a fan of Sam Vimes, I don't mind spending money where it is sensible to do so. Which kit did you go for the diamond one, or the one with the stones?

Cheers

J

 

[Tank]

I have the Razor Shark - Diamond Pocket Field Sharpening Kit

I have put the paste into a small tin and the lapping fluid into a 5ml atomizer as you do not use much each time.

 

[leon-1]

You may want to think of making sharpening boards. Double sided carpet tape, wet and dry and a flat board (a sheet of 3mm tufnol cut to 6 inch by 1.5 inch oblongs would do the job). this would give you the facility of carrying three stones with three different grits, potentially thin leather with and without compounds to get a final edge, glued to the back of the tufnol. They'd weigh less than most anything and they'd certainly cost far less than either of the kits you are looking at.

If you lost or damaged one, you'd still have plenty of wet'n'dry, carpet tape and tufnol to make a replacement at no extra cost.

 

[Paulm]

There's some waterstones for sale secondhand here at the moment http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/japanese-water-stones-set-t93636.html

Not sure about the jump in grits, but a lot for the money.

Cheers, Paul

 

[MarkinLondon]

As a self-confessed sharpening geek, I feel compelled to weigh in and make a few observations and recommendations. Ideally, practical sharpening takes place in two locations and involves two entirely different approaches. At home, before you go, a knife should be sharpened either on a full size non-portable setup, like a 8'x3' whetstone or a Lansky-style system. if you're starting out, then seriously consider (as you have with Dave Budd) having your knife done professionally. Starting out out with a sharp knife make your life very simple indeed, as all that is generally required is a good strop to keep it in shape. As for strops, a piece of pasted leather glued to a strip of wood is both lightweight for taking into the wild and perfect for maintaining an edge. There are a ton of Youtube videos to help you with technique.

If you'd like some product recommendations, then look at Naniwa or Norton or King 1000 grit stones. Using them take some practice, so consider picking up a £12 Mora to play with. They take an edge pretty easily and won't break the bank as you get better at using the stones. Many folks will tell you to pick up something higher grit (in the 6000 range) to get the best edge, but in all fairness, squeezing that last bit of sharpness out of a blade with a stone like that takes so much practice that by the time you learn how to do it you'll have learned enough to better evaluate your tools and technique, so try and remain patient and work on a 1000 grit stone. The 1000 will get your knife very sharp, but for a beginner (or a savvy veteren sharpener) the easiest way to improve the 1000 girt edge is with a strop. They are easy to either build or buy and when used with any of the diamond pastes, always improve the edge beyond what you though you were capable of. I bought a set of pastes of eBay for under £10 and have never regretted the decision. I always bring a 7'x1.5' pasted strop into the woods and strop away all weekend. It's easy and effective. Don't worry about micron-size when choosing pastes. Just use something smaller than 3 microns and you'll improve a 1000 grit edge. You'll also end up polishing the blade to a nice mirror shine. It's important to note that I use the Naniwa 1000 / pasted strop system despite owning Coticules, Charnley Forests, Dragon's Tongues, and a whole mess of Scottish stones. The cheap strop keeps my edges perfectly sharp, assuming that they are sharp to begin with. I'm not sure that I've had to put a blade on a rock in over a year because I strop my blades whenever it takes my fancy.

Hope this helps.