Shaping Handles.

[TeeDee]

Have a few Knife kits on there way with a range of wood scales to be shaped into comfortable handles.

What hints,tips and lessons learned can you share so i make the best job possible.

What tools to use?

What grit paper to use.

How to get it 'buffed' up to a nice clean looking standard

etc etc.

C'mon , share the good stuff!!!

 

[launditch1]

I can tell you how i do it..
When the wood is all glued up on the knife and dry,i rough out the shape with a half round woodrasp.Ill do this until its nearly to the shape im trying to acheive.
Then ill start with the emery paper(60grit).I use the stuff that you get on rolls about an inch wide,set the knife in a vice or clamp it to a bench and then sand away like im shining shoes!After thats done i follow up with normal sandpaper and just work my way up through the grits until i reach the level of smoothness im after.Then a few coats of danish oil and a good buffing.
If the knife has things like brass spacers/bolsters then i use metal files.

Different methods i use for different knives.Eg,full tang,stick tang,stub...

 

[TeeDee]

OK Cheers.

The kits i have ordered have 'corby' rivets. Do you drill a pilot hole and then a shoulder hole? Then what the rivet heads must still protrude don't they?????

 

[Draven]

I usually carve handles to rough shape with an axe, fine tune with a knife and depending on how careful I've been, continue with a rasp and then sandpaper and then steel wool.

If you're using corby rivets, you do need a little ridge for the rivets to hold on to. I think you get special drill bits with a step in them which makes life easier but I could be mistaken. The rivets will protude, the idea is that you put them on before shaping the handle and then grind them down with the wood. Obviously that can't be done with a wood rasp, so an electric sander will help considerably.

I finish to 400 or 600 with sandpaper for most woods. Wenge is an exception, as it sorta has two layers in the grain - a paler, softer bit and a harder and darker wood. If you take the time to go up the grits a bit further (the most I've used is about 1200 but I think that's overkill really) and finish with very fine steel wool and oil, it looks lovely and the softer wood wearing away leaves a lovely texture. Things like Buffalo horn and Antler can do with a higher grit, because they take a lovely polish. Buffalo horn I would only leave matte if I could reliably get a good matte finish with no scratch marks - possibly a sandblasting would achieve that. Really though, it's a matter of opinion - some people like glossy handles, I feel that they'll often cause blisters more than a satin or matte finish.

After sanding I soak in linseed oil overnight, and then apply several coats of linseed oil over a week or two with fine steel wool, allowing time to dry in between. If using leather in the handle, I finish that with superglue before sanding.

Sorry if there's a bit too much detail there!

Pete

 

[brancho]

Fulltangs are not my thing really but look at THIS TUT

For fine grain wood I go through the grits down to 1200 and use a polishing wheel.
1200 grit and a polished on a wheel gives a good finish for stabalised a wood and buffalo horn as they wil shine

A far as finish is concerned I soak wooden handles in danish oil for a few hours or overnight depending on teh effect I want my latest was anly for a couple of hours as the wood was pale.

 

[TeeDee]

Guys thank you. I feel a right Numpty-nuts for missing that tutorial ... , Ah well live and learn, will search around a bit more before i pose a question next time.

 

[Hardworms]

Join British Blades and feast on the wealth of tutorials there! There's nothing you can ask which they haven;t got the answer to! It's a knife makers paradise.