Seasoning Wood to work on...how long?

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Mallow Man

Member
Jul 10, 2004
43
0
Devon
I have just cut some nice Birch, Alder and Beech sticks for me to make into walking sticks. However I am aware from previous experience that they will crack unless I season them before I work on them (and bring indoors!). Does anyone know how long you have to season these types and sizes of wood for before working on them?

All the previous sticks I have made I left outside for a couple of years (forgot them). This time I do not want to wait quite so long!

Mallow Man
 
I have recently also found a hazel walking stick. Don't want to work that much on it though. Have carved the ends round so they don't tear up. It is now seasoning. I don't have a clue on how long to season them, but try 3 months and see what happens then. Wood is usually dry after that period. :-)
 
Stickmakers always advise that they are left for a year so that they dry slowly before heat treatment is applied for straightening etc. That said someone I know put some in the back of his airing cupboard after a few months to accelerate the process so he could work on them and I don't believe he had a problem though I haven't tried it myself.
 
my vote is for the draughty garage

dont lean them against a wall though they may sag and bend as they dry

try tying several in a bundle

Tant
 
Two options here. Cut your walking sticks leaving at least six inches over at either end and leave to dry for a year. Then cut down to required length and refine them- you shouldn't have any cracking problems.[ does depend on wood though!] If you have already cut them to length try dipping the cut ends in liquid wax. This will ,hopefully, ensure a more even drying. Also I would leave any small side branches an inch or so long rather than cutting these cleanly against the stick for the same reason.
For walking stick diameter wood a year is definately long enough for drying.
 
arctic hobo said:
What sort of temperature is best? A cool draughty garage or a warm interior room? :?:

Annoyingly my Theo Fossel book is at my parents house so I can't be specific on times for drying.

However, I do remember that Theo recommends drying the stick somewhere cool that you will walk past regularly. Every couple of times you go past, bend the stick so it's straight. By the time it's properly dry you should have a reasonably straight stick, although it may still need steaming.

HTH.
 
One of the problems of splitting is caused by the ends drying faster than the body of the wood (exposed grain and all that...) some sites i read while researching wood stabilisation recommended coating each end of the wood (open grain) with wax to help regulate the drying speed and reucing the risk of splitting at the ends....

As for time, they recommended putting in an airing cupboard or similar warm but not too warm place.

Try weighing it every few weeks to measure water loss.....
 

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