Saddle stitching leather

[underground]

Well, I kind of managed to sew a sheath with the excellent leather given to me by Longstrider. Unfortunately it isn't the neatest as I found the stitching very difficult.

The problem was as I used a thick piece of leather, it was very hard to hold the 2 sides together properly and make a hole with the awl.

I think I need to use a sewing clam (which seems very expensive by comparison to the other tools), or another means - can anyone give any ideas how to make something please?

 

[Bardster]

Well, I kind of managed to sew a sheath with the excellent leather given to me by Longstrider. Unfortunately it isn't the neatest as I found the stitching very difficult.

The problem was as I used a thick piece of leather, it was very hard to hold the 2 sides together properly and make a hole with the awl.

I think I need to use a sewing clam (which seems very expensive by comparison to the other tools), or another means - can anyone give any ideas how to make something please?

I am sure someone will come along with plans shortly - I know Pete has made his own. but I use one of these http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=102092&id=16894
i have a clam but find this adequate for small jobs like sheaths.
Also a quick tip : Get some rubber cement ( i use barge) and glue the pieces together before making your holes and sewing - makes life a lot easier

 

[Toddy]

I've a saddler friend who uses these but I couldn't justify the expense for something I'd use so rarely. If it's something relatively small I just put the pieces into the bench vice with two straps of wood next to the jaws. This holds everything neat and tight and stops the vice from marking the leather.
It might not be the most comfortable way to sew leather but it does work, and it lets me do that double thread *chug* that snugs the thread down good and firm.
It works fine for sheaths, pouches and sporrans but anything big, like boots and shoes, I usually barter for

Cheers,
Toddy

 

[running bare]

hi toddy

dont know if its relevant but at the northern moot Eric Methven ( excuse the spelling) used needles to hold the position of the sheath on the first and last holes
thus enabling the other holes to be pierced . hope this makes sense and helps.
( too many jack daniels...Hic)

tom

 

[Longstrider]

Underground, You don't need a clam. I've made items with up to 8 layers of leather at least as thick as the stuff I gave you, and have stitched them all, no problem. My "trick" is to roughen both pieces of leather where they will touch with 40 grit abrasive paper, then glue them together with good old Evo-Stick. Let each piece become just drier than the "tacky" stage then press firmly together. Once all the parts are glued in place and the glue has had time to dry as much as possible (Usually leave mine overnight after gluing) cut the stitch groove and mark where the stitches will go with wheel, then drill each stitch hole or use an awl to make the holes (I use a 1 or a 1.5mm drill for stitch holes and a 2mm drill for the last 3 or 4 at one end of the stitching to allow room for extra passes of the needle for back-stitching to end it neatly) Using a pillar drill or Black and Decker in a stand will ensure that your stitch holes are straight. It's then a simple matter of taking the needles and thread and "stitching" your workpiece up. I think it's more like "lacing it up" once the holes already exist, but if you make the holes small enough to be neat, you will still need a needle to get the thread through them. I have found that the second needle through the hole will often need quite a bit of "persuasion" to go through due to the thread already in the hole. I tried a sail-makers palm (It's a heavy duty type of thimble) but found that I bent the eye of the needle over as often as I got it through the hole. Because of this I now use pliers to stitch with, usually my Swisstool.

A few things to remember are that if you flush up all your edges but do not round off the corners at all, you will get the groover to run along the edge more easily, giving a nice line to the stitching. Use waxed thread as this not only locks in place once the stitch has been tightened but lubricates itself through the hole as you stitch. Waxed thread also twists and twizzles up into horrible tangles far far less than un-waxed. Once the stitching is done you can round off the edges of the leather, stain (if required), then polish or "Bone" them smooth. Doing the boning with the leather well dampened will not only give an excellent finish but serves to close up the stitching holes as well due to way the leather becomes compressed at the edges of the sheath. With really hard leather I run the groover along and mark with the wheel then drill as above, but I run the groover along the underside (flesh side) of the leather AFTER drilling the holes as well. This makes it easier to get the groove to match the holes and the end finish is neater with the thread nestled well into a groove on both sides of the workpiece thus out of the way of abrasion.

Hope this helps ?

 

[ESpy]

This is the design I used for my pony -
http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_stitchpony.html

(and Chuck's stitching tutorial is there too - http://www.wrtcleather.com/1-ckd/tutorials/_leatherstitch.html )

Toying with the idea of making myself a more traditional clam...

Working with the awl, you can groove both sides of the leather & then stab through; with a bit of practice, you'll get the awl coming out in the centre of the groove every time.

 

[Marts]

I know that an awl blade is meant to create the best kind of hole as the shape lets the leather close around the thread. To ensure the straightness of the holes do you think that putting the awl blade into a pillar drill that is turned off and using it to punch the holes through straight would work.

Best of both worlds or a stupid idea?

 

[Rod]

Underground,

Would echo Longstrider and suggest a good line of glue on inside edges. I use copydex. Spend a good line on both sides, leave to 'go off' for about 15mins then press together. Rub/press/hold with fingers for 10 mins or so, and you are ready to go to next stage.

Also, once you start your stitching use a couple of cocktail sticks - one on each side - to hold your completed stitch taut.

Hope this helps

 

[leon-1]

In the article on making moccasins you will see what I use

These are welding clamps from focus, I like them as they can be bought in different tensions and allow you to use them on various areas including curved ones.

As longstrider said use clamps to hold the leather together when glueing bits together, before marking and making the holes using a round or rhombic bladed awl, it can take a little while if like these moccs you have over three hundred holes to punch for attaching the soles on each moccasin.

Someone mentioned about the holes, rotary or drilled holes can get larger over time, whereas ones made with a rhombic awl do tend to grip as they will swell. So the option you have i use a very fine drill bit, in a pillar drill with the cord that I use for stitching sheaths I will use a 0.75mm drill bit, if you drill the holes by hand you will break a lot of these bits so you would probably be better using a 1.5mm bit or use an awl, the awl is cheaper and can be quicker.

 

[Longstrider]

I agree that the awl is seen as the "proper" way to do the job, and that drilled holes can become too open if not done with care. The awl will tend to part the fibres within the leather rather than removing them as a drill does. The main reason that I find drilling is the better option for me I think, is that most of my leatherwork is done on pretty heavy duty items where the awl, however sharp, would be a nightmare to use. 3, 4 or 5 layers of 4mm thick harness leather takes a lot of piercing with an awl !

Proper boning of a dampened edge will also help to close up the holes even if they are drilled.

 

[ESpy]

...the awl, however sharp, would be a nightmare to use. 3, 4 or 5 layers of 4mm thick harness leather takes a lot of piercing with an awl !

Nah, it's a doddle...

3-4 layers I can do with no problem - but I'll let on that if it gets to more than that, I've usually already used a hammered awl to get most of the way through, leaving the last bit for me to make sure alignment of the hole is correct out the back.