How much is it worth to sell?
There must be a thousand knives to replace it with and probably leave a chunk of change in your pocket
There must be a thousand knives to replace it with and probably leave a chunk of change in your pocket
Recommendations for someone to modify knife
- Thread starter KnifeEater
- Start date
Wood. I just wanted a camp knife that would eat through wood for shelter building.
I would say that this was designed by the seller who commissioned it. The workmanship is top notch and the design and functionality shouldn't reflect on kornalski knives.
It's k600 so an awful lot of very tough material to get rid of. To be honest it's already apparent that I bought the knife with my eyes closed and it wasn't what I was expecting.
This actually looks like exactly what I thought I was buying. I'll wait for the restock and give it a try. Thanks for the recommendation.
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I could well be. My only experience with big knives have been, dare I say it, gerber cheapy crap and a fiskars XA3 brush hook that while cheap chopped like a champ. For a tool, admittedly a very different tool, that cost 10x as much as the XA3 I was expecting comparable choppiness for lack of a better term.
No offence taken. What would be the correct technique for using a giant bowie?
I've two as they're absolutely phenomenal bits of kit. Truly, truly awesome cutting power at any price, let alone the pittance they're asking for it. Super comfy handle too.
Get yourself a British milsurp machete sheath for a few quid and you've got a very capable and portable tool.
If I use a knife to chop branches thicker than I can cut, I held the knife loosely with a couple of fingers close to the end of the handle, and swing it to chop. Sounds weird and crazy, but it works for a few branches. I seldom have the need though to cut thick brsnches though.
Or you could get yourself a kukuri, slight learning curve, but once you get the hang of it they destroy wood.
I understand the technique you're describing, unfortunately with the sheer heft of this thing holding it anything but firmly is a big no no.
I wouldn't even know where to begin with your recommendation, plus I think that finding someone to do the work would cost so much that it wouldn't be worth it.
Lol ignore people who go on about bevel degrees and all that crap. If it's sharp it'll cut, the rest is geometry.
I also think you're expecting too much from a knife. That thing should cut like a beast, but still no where near as a good as an axe.
You may well be right. I'm going to take it out this weekend and beat the tar out of it and see how it does.
It's such an 'agricultural' tool that to me, the leather sheath wasn't worth it, but I've no idea on the sheath's quality. I'd prefer to send off for kydex personally, as the weight is substantial anyway, but the factory blade cover and military sheath work well for my uses. Far from perfect, but functional and very cheap.
I opted for the leather sheath, purely aesthetic as I also bought their small matching bushcraft knife.
It's the plastic insert with a leather outer and a nice belt dangler. Considering how cheap the knife is I've no complaints, I think it finishes it off nicely, and maybe some day I'll belt wear it. If it was going to be a no nonsense worker though, I'm not sure I'd bother. As Hugh points out it's more functional than show piece, screams to be used, in fact I wish I had more opportunity to use mine.
Geometry is important.
Sharp merely means that the two sides of the blade meet each other smoothly, that there are no flat spots, burrs, rolls, or dinks in the edge. A well known US knife company called Cold Steel made (may still make) knives which are claimed to be both razor sharp, and immensely tough. They did it by having very well sharpened edges that were very steep, 45 degrees or more. They did what they said, but they wouldn't really cut wood worth a darn.
Found this illustration, which shows what RobsonV is talking about. If you are going to maintain your tools, this is a concept worth getting your head around. Not difficult. Most of us do not actually measure angles, we have just worked out what it feels and looks like when we sharpen an edge that cuts how we want. If you don't yet have that feel for what works, some means of measuring the angle can offer you a guide. It is always easier to steepen a bevel than it is to make it thinner, so I would recommend sharpening it finer than you think it needs, take it out, test, and if it rolls or chips, just steepen the very edge of it.
Sharp merely means that the two sides of the blade meet each other smoothly, that there are no flat spots, burrs, rolls, or dinks in the edge. A well known US knife company called Cold Steel made (may still make) knives which are claimed to be both razor sharp, and immensely tough. They did it by having very well sharpened edges that were very steep, 45 degrees or more. They did what they said, but they wouldn't really cut wood worth a darn.
Found this illustration, which shows what RobsonV is talking about. If you are going to maintain your tools, this is a concept worth getting your head around. Not difficult. Most of us do not actually measure angles, we have just worked out what it feels and looks like when we sharpen an edge that cuts how we want. If you don't yet have that feel for what works, some means of measuring the angle can offer you a guide. It is always easier to steepen a bevel than it is to make it thinner, so I would recommend sharpening it finer than you think it needs, take it out, test, and if it rolls or chips, just steepen the very edge of it.
Fiskars, weight forward, very short tang and thinnish stock. I used mine every day for 3 months cutting Chestnut for walking sticks. I contemplated taking the hook off it to get between the coppice stools, but knew I'd lose part of the tools weight and therefore function.
Average billhook, stick tang, weight forward. Not a patch on the Fiskars IMO, but better for splitting down.
Skrama, hidden tang. All these choppers are very weight forward. I think your 10mm full tang is too thick and not balanced for your intended use. Also, a longer handle would give you a better swing, that short handle and full tang won't lend themselves to chopping.
I too am in the camp of flogging what you've purchased rather than modifying it. The maker is desirable and at least it's currently as the maker intended it.
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