puukko vs RM style

[Siberianfury]

By RM style i mean the standard full tang, 4mm spear point bushcraft knife that has become so popular since ray mears was fist broadcasted.
remember this is for style of knife, not individual designs,
so handles and steel types do not apply

Anyway, what sort of knife type do you prefer?

battoning/strength:
the Rm has a great battoning ability due to the 4mm blade.
the puukko can stand up to light battoning depending on how well made.

Cutting:
the Rm is acceptable in cutting, sharp but a 4mm blade is a little thick to be a great slicer.
the puukko is great a slicing due to the 3mm blade and generaly high grind.

weight/ balance:
Rm is heavy due the the full tang, and the balance issue can be sorted with a tapered tang if needed.
the Puukko, is very light due to the stick tang, this also makes for light handling.

control:
personaly i find a puukko style blade to be easyer to control than a drop point, but thats personal prefrence.

so these are my observations, others may have different experiences.

so the question is, which ones your favorite.

ATB
Josh

if somone can add a poll, i would be most greatfull

 

[bushwacker bob]

Some of the wiser people I know carry a 'woodlore' style knife thats only 2.5mm - 3mm thick.
4mm is overkill making a knife 25% heavier than needed.

 

[Tor helge]

I prefer a puukko, or tollekniv as we say in norwegian. I find them most versatile.
I seldom baton (I carry an axe), but I mostly use a knife that will withstand the abuse (Brusletto Storhallingen).
I imagine it could have something to do with tradition or habit.
But I have many "foreign" blades, even modern scandies and I`ve tried them all in wilderness conditions. I always go back to the traditional scandi ones.

Tor

 

[wizard]

I have both and find the RM type to be a good all around tool for most work. However, as you stated, it is heavy at 4mm and a little less precise. I attended a couple of great courses in the past year and used the RM style at both courses and was able to make spoons, notch trap sticks and baton the heck out of wood of considerable size and hardness.

I also like my Mora knive for inclusion in my daypack for emergency uses and because it is sharp, light and strong with the laiminated steel. It may be less of a batoning blade but it can do in a pinch and besides, the price makes it somewhat expendable.

I just received my Kellam Wolverine today and had in mind a light knife that was higher quality than the standard Mora, which I think the Wolverine fits nicely. Thank you for your review, it swayed me over.
I have not gotten to try the Wolverine out yet but I can tell it will be a great tool, capable of most bushcraft needs.

All that said, I still love the RM style, if I know I will definately be using a knife, that is my first choice to carry. I recently purchsed a Mick Spain Bushcrafter that I have not used yet, but it is probably perfect for all bushcraft needs. The knife has lovely curly birch handles and it is the classic RM style only the full tang blade is 3mm instead of 4mm. This makes the knife much lighter and still very capable. The only reason I have not used it is because it is so nice and so well finished, I just hate to break it in! Silly me!

So, I guess bottom line, is that I am a RM style and a Puuko style affectionado, with no clear choice for one or the other, so far! Cheers!

 

[VtBlackdog]

I have both types and prefer the traditonal puukko style; if I want to chop something I use a heavy convex blade or a hatchet.

 

[FGYT]

I prefer a centerline symetrical point for boring etc (my mate with the Wolverine says its its only niggle for him tho a small one)
but dont like the Woody mainly because of its thickness its much nicer in 3mm

however as you know (you got one your Fav BG ) you can get a Pukko with a 4mm thick blade

its not just a case of profile knive design has a lot of factors that affect use

a 4mm knife can be a lot better for slicing for example if you put a sabre grind on it and still be a good battoner my tactical blade is nearly 5mm thick and its 20mm high sabre to 0.7mm then a 30deg secondary makes it a lot better slicer than a 4mm woody with a a 28deg scandi etc. and a similer edge to spine angle for boring

Tapers can also change the way a blade plays in the hand etc

Design is a lot more than a 2D profile with simple scandi grind

of the 2 choices given i prefer a 2-3mm thick small pukko ie the Morra Clipper

but my fav plade design is my own DSP knife

ATB

Duncan

 

[addo]

Puukko for me in 3mm. Does everything I want very well including battoning.

To be honest I only batton for the hobo stove, so its light straight grained stuff anyway.I enjoy carving and this style is excellent, as it is also for food prep.

I have a 3mm woody type, and it still just feels like a clumbsy version of the puukko, with too much belly and weight.

Plus you can get a very nice traditional puukko for less than £50 with scandi sheath, or a hand made one for a bit more. Moras and the like are all cracking bits of no nonscence kit too. £8 for a clipper at the last forestry show I went to.

 

[big_swede]

most scandis I've handled have been less than 3 mm in blade thickness.

have never had a problem with battoning with stick tangs either, the only limiting factor is blade length.

 

[Toddy]

Yep, I agree, If you know how to do it properly, and do so, there are no problems battoning with a stick tang.

Personal preferance is a drop point, no guard, full tang, convex ground, no choil, I quite like a butt plate, and I prefer a 3mm (or finer) blade with the total knife measuring less than 18cms. (I'm kind of small) I don't have any problems slicing or carving, paring or peeling with these knives.
On balance I think I prefer the woodlore style. I have both types and thinking about it, the ones I reach for most frequently are those. Not saying I don' t like the others, two in particular are really, really good, just that the ones I choose to take with me are generally the woodlore style.

cheers,
Toddy

 

[Siberianfury]

i think somthing like a puukko, 3mm blade, full tang (or very strong handle), upswept blade would be the ultimate.
i usualy either carry my wolverine or BG damascus Puukko.
odviously the BG is bombproof, and with an 8mm scandi grind it slices pretty well considering the thickness of the blade.
however the wolverine has a 10mm scandi grind and a 3mm blade, whist its odvously not as strong as the BG its a very very good precision slicer, thats why when i have a larger "camp knife" at hand, carry the wolverine. and it will do at a pinch, ive battoned through some pretty big bits of ash wth the wolverine and its done fine, will never beat the 4mm BG at battening though.

if you have seen bernies own user, its very similar. 3mm 01, puukko blade profile, full tang, and great grinds, looks to be a brilliant design as it combines the best of the two.

Wizard, hope you enjoy your wolverine, its a great knife.

ATB
Josh

 

[forestwalker]

have never had a problem with battoning with stick tangs either, the only limiting factor is blade length.

I have a Sami knife what is slightly "rattly", most likely due to battoning and the "bits and pieces" style handle.

 

[Siberianfury]

I have a Sami knife what is slightly "rattly", most likely due to battoning and the "bits and pieces" style handle.

a stick tangs strength is in the handle material and construction, whats the handle made of?

 

[forestwalker]

a stick tangs strength is in the handle material and construction, whats the handle made of?

Bits of reindeer antler, birch and birch-bark. As I said, bits and pieces, not as strong as e.g. one solid chunk of antler.

 

[Siberianfury]

Bits of reindeer antler, birch and birch-bark. As I said, bits and pieces, not as strong as e.g. one solid chunk of antler.

ahh, yeah thats probably why.
the strongest handle design isnt full or stick tang, its actualy that of the F1, an internal full tang, no scales to break off, but still a huge chunk of metal in the handle.

 

[wizard]

i think somthing like a puukko, 3mm blade, full tang (or very strong handle), upswept blade would be the ultimate.
i usualy either carry my wolverine or BG damascus Puukko.
odviously the BG is bombproof, and with an 8mm scandi grind it slices pretty well considering the thickness of the blade.
however the wolverine has a 10mm scandi grind and a 3mm blade, whist its odvously not as strong as the BG its a very very good precision slicer, thats why when i have a larger "camp knife" at hand, carry the wolverine. and it will do at a pinch, ive battoned through some pretty big bits of ash wth the wolverine and its done fine, will never beat the 4mm BG at battening though.

if you have seen bernies own user, its very similar. 3mm 01, puukko blade profile, full tang, and great grinds, looks to be a brilliant design as it combines the best of the two.

Wizard, hope you enjoy your wolverine, its a great knife.

ATB
Josh

Josh, what you describe as your perfect blade sounds an awful lot like a Skookum Bush Tool. I have been lusting for a SBT myself because it seems to be the best of all designs all packed into one knife!

Thank you for the tip on the Wolverine, I think it is perfect for almost every task and instead of beating on it I will carry my Small Forest Axe Cheers!

 

[Siberianfury]

Josh, what you describe as your perfect blade sounds an awful lot like a Skookum Bush Tool. I have been lusting for a SBT myself because it seems to be the best of all designs all packed into one knife!

Thank you for the tip on the Wolverine, I think it is perfect for almost every task and instead of beating on it I will carry my Small Forest Axe Cheers!

when i get that perfect blade mate, ill post up a reveiw
the wolverine is great, i have split wood 3" and felled small trees 3" diamiter with this knife, using a batton of course and its done fine. i have heard of wolverines handles cracking, however this is due to the wood. if there are any imprefections in the wood, its likley to break under hard use. luckly the grain in mine seems to be very tight and solid, so its shouldnt be a problem.
with a wolverine and a larger tool, golok/Axe you are set for almost any task.
i carry this knife when hunting as i know i wont have the requirement to split wood,
and the blade is great at game prep and other slicy tasks.


ATB
Josh

 

[Chris the Cat]

Rod Garcias SBT is hard to beat as an allrounder.
Love mine
Just not sure I love it more that my Woodlore!!
C da C.

 

[British Red]

I suspect that the old answer is true "it depends for what"

I tend to use one of the following

The "PFK" in 3mm O1 - nice, light, precise - great on wood - basically a lightened, slimmed down spearpointed woodlore type I guess

For a more tradional feel - My Jojo Nessmuk - much more general purpose and the best larger butchery knife I use

But Shinken was very kind in letting me have a prototype of his "uber puukko". I have to say with its brass pommel and super steel blade I often find myself reaching for it

The one thing I do know...they are all more capable than I am. I don;t buy knives anymore. With those three theres nothing left to want

Red

 

[Siberianfury]

I suspect that the old answer is true "it depends for what"

I tend to use one of the following

The "PFK" in 3mm O1 - nice, light, precise - great on wood - basically a lightened, slimmed down spearpointed woodlore type I guess

nice knife youve got there, love the scales.
stus work is excelent, i beleive Duncan made a simliar knife of the same design which works very well.

i suppose the nearest combination i have would be my Bernie Garland Hybrid.
4mm, alabama damascus, tapered tang, and a nice scandi grind.

one thing i like about damascus is, no matter how you beat it up, it still looks great and keeps its edge very well.

ATB
Josh

 

[wizard]

I really like the Shinken Uber Puukko!!