Parang

[mark.177]

"the drawing on you Khuk above if thats all you have done wont really do much its minimal and only in the area of the widest parts of the blade. The weakest point there is the narrow part at the Sharpening notch and the finger Choil"
id given it a lower purple blue drawing first almost to the edge and along the tang but had sanded back to clean steel and gave the thicker parts a hotter draw (what you see here) as the area behind the main chopping point seems to be the area of most stress and most breakages i have seen strange as it may seem as its a thicker part of the knife occur in this area? unless used to batton and they break at the tang/choil.
the blade was edge quenched leaving the tang and spine softer to start with, the main part of the blade i wanted to selectively temper back was the bulbous tip as had to submerge most of it to quench the rear of the blade... difficult blade shape to heat treat and temper, iv watched them being made and seen them selectively harden the edge with a kettle of water

edit: as wasnt likely clear, due to the blade profile i had to selective temper it twice. once in a tray of sand and water with the spine horizontal and again with the tang lower and tip higher to be able to fully do the tip which is what you see in the pic

 

[Muskett]

Here are my woodland choppers:

For a light weight portable practical blade for UK use then these two are my favourites by far, Ben Orford and Skrama :

In truth a Skrama and Silky F180 saw are a fantastic combo to compliment your personal small knife. Not expensive either.
(I gave a Skrama to a Hereford lad to do his Jungle Training, he came top of course, partly due to Skrama so he said).

 

[CLEM]

Mr FYGT can you check your in box please Sir 🙂👍🏻