New pocket axe
- Thread starter British Red
- Start date
And a diamond file!
I used to think the GB crosscut file and diamond file were a rip off given their size, but I got lucky and bought both at a good price. As you can see from heaths struggles, that step between harsh file and smoothing saves ages. On my falling axe, the diamond file is the most used item!
Red
I used to think the GB crosscut file and diamond file were a rip off given their size, but I got lucky and bought both at a good price. As you can see from heaths struggles, that step between harsh file and smoothing saves ages. On my falling axe, the diamond file is the most used item!
Red
That's handy to know where the diamond file comes in the hierarchy of sharpening tools. It might just be my next investment in sharpening kit.
Fantastic advice as per usual Red thanks.
Can anyone advise on a cheap supplier of wet 'n' dry?
Can anyone advise on a cheap supplier of wet 'n' dry?
B&Q Matt or any good DIY store
Ideally you need a cross cut (B*astard) file, a diamond file (although a dua fold type sharpener works) and a finishing system. An axe stone or a wet and dry hone is the finishing system. The cross cut really rips metal off. Seems harsh, but wait till you slam you axe into a buried nail on knot or hit a stone with a limbing axe. Taking 2mm off an axe bit is a lot of work. The diamond step smooths out the deep file marks and then the finishing system gives you a really sharp edge. You can use a fine metal file rather than a diamond file if you prefer - but its the ususal coarse, medium, fine / finishing steps.
HTH Red
Ideally you need a cross cut (B*astard) file, a diamond file (although a dua fold type sharpener works) and a finishing system. An axe stone or a wet and dry hone is the finishing system. The cross cut really rips metal off. Seems harsh, but wait till you slam you axe into a buried nail on knot or hit a stone with a limbing axe. Taking 2mm off an axe bit is a lot of work. The diamond step smooths out the deep file marks and then the finishing system gives you a really sharp edge. You can use a fine metal file rather than a diamond file if you prefer - but its the ususal coarse, medium, fine / finishing steps.
HTH Red
Where does the Gransfors axe file fit in? Doesn't look aggressive enough to me. So I know I need a diamond file, but do I need another cross cut file as well?
And one of these days I'm going to pluck up the courage to show Red my old axe which is in severe need of reprofiling. Might be beyond the point of no return, but it has too much sentimental value to risk me using it for reshaping practice.
And one of these days I'm going to pluck up the courage to show Red my old axe which is in severe need of reprofiling. Might be beyond the point of no return, but it has too much sentimental value to risk me using it for reshaping practice.
There is no such thing as an axe not worth redeeming!
Oh - GB axe file is a crosscut. It doesn't look much but is hugely agressive (and can be slipped in a pocket as its only a couple of inches long)
Red
Oh - GB axe file is a crosscut. It doesn't look much but is hugely agressive (and can be slipped in a pocket as its only a couple of inches long)
Red
I've just bought a set of mini files along with my wet 'n' dry sandpaper from B&Q and dug out my old cheap knockabout axe - a Focus 'own brand' thing that was really battered, dinged to hell and turbo blunt and have just reprofiled it and sharpened it and it's come up a treat 
I made a block using a bit of wood and some of that plastic sheet that Red used in this thread.
I made a block using a bit of wood and some of that plastic sheet that Red used in this thread.
Hi Red.
Would any diamond sharpener do the job (dc3 or 4 type) ar does it need to be a diamond file. I've had a GB mini for a few years now, and I've bashed the life out of it. So far, I've not had any problems tackling jobs most may consider "too big" for the mini. I do, however, have a small dent just behind the cutting edge (no idea how I dented it there) and it dosen't appear to interfere with the cutting, so I'm leaving it alone, but ultimately, as the axe get sharpened, it will some day go into the cutting edge and i'll need to file it out.
Would any diamond sharpener do the job (dc3 or 4 type) ar does it need to be a diamond file. I've had a GB mini for a few years now, and I've bashed the life out of it. So far, I've not had any problems tackling jobs most may consider "too big" for the mini. I do, however, have a small dent just behind the cutting edge (no idea how I dented it there) and it dosen't appear to interfere with the cutting, so I'm leaving it alone, but ultimately, as the axe get sharpened, it will some day go into the cutting edge and i'll need to file it out.
CG,
You could use the diamond side of a DC4 but something more flexible that will hug the shape and with a handle to keep your fingers out of the way make life easier
Red
You could use the diamond side of a DC4 but something more flexible that will hug the shape and with a handle to keep your fingers out of the way make life easier
Red
Apologies to Red, I know this has taken ages but since I bought the Roselli my wetterlings was forgotten while I played with my new toy.
Anyway here are the latest pictures, I don't know whether tey'll be any help as they're not particularly good. I did take more but they're all out of focus.
Anyway here are the latest pictures, I don't know whether tey'll be any help as they're not particularly good. I did take more but they're all out of focus.
heath,
thats looking really good. now if you want we can polish the bevel up to a mirror shine. If not, we can just work on the handle. To polish the bevel we would need to get you some finer wet and dry or some buffing compound (I can send you some - no charge)
The only thing I would change is to put a little more curve to the bit (it looks a bit flat). It won't make much difference on an axe this size though
So - polish the bevel or do the handle?
Red
thats looking really good. now if you want we can polish the bevel up to a mirror shine. If not, we can just work on the handle. To polish the bevel we would need to get you some finer wet and dry or some buffing compound (I can send you some - no charge)
The only thing I would change is to put a little more curve to the bit (it looks a bit flat). It won't make much difference on an axe this size though
So - polish the bevel or do the handle?
Red
Thanks Red
If you don't think the curve will make much difference then I don't think I'll bother as I would imagine it would mean going back through the previous steps. This is however a great learning experience for me (and loads of others reading this thread by the sound of things) so if you could explain exactly what you mean, and what that would entail, I would be grateful, that way I'll know for any future axe projects (hopefully there will be many).
I will PM you my address if you're happy to send me some compound, and then we can start polishing.
Thanks again Red, you are a gent.
If you don't think the curve will make much difference then I don't think I'll bother as I would imagine it would mean going back through the previous steps. This is however a great learning experience for me (and loads of others reading this thread by the sound of things) so if you could explain exactly what you mean, and what that would entail, I would be grateful, that way I'll know for any future axe projects (hopefully there will be many).
I will PM you my address if you're happy to send me some compound, and then we can start polishing.
Thanks again Red, you are a gent.
This thread has been very instructional thanks! Even if I did end up going the mechanical route in the end for the bulk of the work, but then I have the advantage of having suitable toys to do that with!
It did take me a long time by hand but like Red mentioned that was mostly the step between coarse file and wet & dry. I'm sure a diamond file like the Gransfors one would have made a big difference. Having said that I'm glad now that i did it by hand.
I'd like to add my vote for the comprehensive axe sharpening tutorial. As well as technique I would love to hear what Red has to say about the different tools available ie waterstones, gransfors puck, diamond file or homemade wet & dry sets. I've recently had a little bit of spare cash and was considering buying the axe stone, but now I'm wondering whether I should save my money and just stick to wet & dry.
It's great to be able to get advice from our resident axepert.
I'd like to add my vote for the comprehensive axe sharpening tutorial. As well as technique I would love to hear what Red has to say about the different tools available ie waterstones, gransfors puck, diamond file or homemade wet & dry sets. I've recently had a little bit of spare cash and was considering buying the axe stone, but now I'm wondering whether I should save my money and just stick to wet & dry.
It's great to be able to get advice from our resident axepert.
heath - i'll do one - promise! However the axepert is Old Jimbo for sharpening and use and Cegga for making. I'm just a bloke who likes axes and I know my place
Red
And your humility is what we love about you Red
On the axe stone front, although I have one, I've not really got a use for it at home I now realise so I think it's more something to have out and about for in the field sharpening, when wet and dry would be less convenient.
On the axe stone front, although I have one, I've not really got a use for it at home I now realise
so I think it's more something to have out and about for in the field sharpening, when wet and dry would be less convenient.
Missed this thread somehow, just read the whole thing! With regards scratches, I was shown a trick on my bench fitting phase of my apprenticeship to rub chalk onto a file to reduce the bite and to give a cleaner finish to metal. Also, to avoid really deep scratches, clean the file regularly with a file card, basically a wire brush that removes any metal filings from between the teeth of the file.
Draw filing is good for cleaning up the finish, but it is a bit frowned upon! This is basically where you use the file rotated 90 degrees and draw the file along the work instead of pushing the file over the work. You use the file as you would a draw knife, holding the handle in one hand and the end of the file in the other, square in front of you.
Just a few tricks that may help others in the future.
Draw filing is good for cleaning up the finish, but it is a bit frowned upon! This is basically where you use the file rotated 90 degrees and draw the file along the work instead of pushing the file over the work. You use the file as you would a draw knife, holding the handle in one hand and the end of the file in the other, square in front of you.
Just a few tricks that may help others in the future.
Thats good info spam - cheers. I do similar to my diamond files too -- they clog far too fast otherwise and lose potency.
I tell you what - now that heath knows what goes into setting up an axe properly, the old tales of using another persons axe without permission being grounds for a fight have some resonance I'll bet. I've spent at least a couple of working days getting an axe just so. I'd be pretty dis-chuffed if someone wanged a ding in it or split the helve!
Red
I tell you what - now that heath knows what goes into setting up an axe properly, the old tales of using another persons axe without permission being grounds for a fight have some resonance I'll bet. I've spent at least a couple of working days getting an axe just so. I'd be pretty dis-chuffed if someone wanged a ding in it or split the helve!
Red
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