New knife advice sought please

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ChrisW

Member
Aug 19, 2008
47
0
Bristol
Great knife indeed. However, how do I tell if I've got the stainless steel or carbon steel version? The website I bought it from said, and I quote, "triple laminated carbon steel blade". But it's very shiny.

How do you tell?
Can you get such a high polish finish to a carbon steel blade?
Am I getting my steels mixed up?
What's the difference anyhoo?
Is it important?

I'm not sure if I'm bothered either way, except maybe that I thought I was getting one thing and wonder if I have another.

In anticipation,
Grasshopper
 

Xunil

Settler
Jan 21, 2006
671
3
55
North East UK
www.bladesmith.co.uk
You can easily mirror polish carbon steel while, ironically, some stainless steels are so abrasion resistant that getting a high polish on them can be a real challenge (S30V for example).

The stainless Temagami knives only arrived in the UK today for most stockists. It's a very, very safe bet that yours is carbon.

If you don't mind your knife developing some patina, an easy test is to wash your knife blade to make sure any oil is removed and slice some mango or any other citrus fruit. You should see some discolouration developing pretty quickly.

Dunking the blade in coke or Dr Pepper will do much the same if you leave part of the blade in either of those products for a few minutes, or you can put the knife on a work surface and put a drop or two of those or similar drinks onto the blade and leave it for a couple of minutes.

Slicing onions is another option.

Deliberately selectively etching your shiny knife seems like an overkill method of establishing whether it is stainless or carbon though :D

Treat it as carbon, to be on the safe side.

Unless you asked for stainless you would have got carbon by default, given that the stainless version is only just hitting the UK., and the seller would have (or should have) advised you of that.
 
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Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
Nice one mate, let us know how you get on with it!

Some stainless can look like orange peel when highly polished whera's most carbon steel blades polish beautfully. strange that!
 
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ChrisW

Member
Aug 19, 2008
47
0
Bristol
Yes, strikes me as odd too. Interesting though nonetheless.

I was expecting a carbon steel blade and was after one. But this has had me thinking. My reason for wanting carbon over stainless was due to the oft quoted sharpness thing...
(I hope I have this right)
"Carbon steel will hold a keener edge but it will dull quicker than stainless steel, but that's okay because carbon is easier to sharpen in the field than stainless."

Define "easier" in this sense. Is it down to physical effort, materials required, technique, a combination of things or something else entirely?

Also, now I think about this some more, I've never sharpened any knife I've had 'in the field' anyway, so it's an academic point only.

Baffled of Bristol.
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
"Carbon steel will hold a keener edge but it will dull quicker than stainless steel, but that's okay because carbon is easier to sharpen in the field than stainless."

That is a bit of a myth really, i can get good stainless steels every bit as sharp as carbon steel knives.

There are varrying grades of both carbon and stainless steels. Stainless steels with the same amount of carbon as a carbon steel tend to have greater wear resistance (depends on other alloys too) and tend not to be as tough. Because thet have greater wear resistance they tend to be harder to sharpen.

12c7 has half the carbon as 01 but still holds a very good edge and is easy to sharpen. but is not as tough, so it really depends on a lot of factors.

If you get a good stainless it is every bit as good as carbon for small knives. it's main dissadvantage in my opinion it toughness
 

Xunil

Settler
Jan 21, 2006
671
3
55
North East UK
www.bladesmith.co.uk
Yes, strikes me as odd too. Interesting though nonetheless.

I was expecting a carbon steel blade and was after one. But this has had me thinking. My reason for wanting carbon over stainless was due to the oft quoted sharpness thing...
(I hope I have this right)
"Carbon steel will hold a keener edge but it will dull quicker than stainless steel, but that's okay because carbon is easier to sharpen in the field than stainless."

Define "easier" in this sense. Is it down to physical effort, materials required, technique, a combination of things or something else entirely?

Also, now I think about this some more, I've never sharpened any knife I've had 'in the field' anyway, so it's an academic point only.

Baffled of Bristol.

Internet 'facts' are great aren't they ?

Some of them are even true...

:)

To echo and expand upon Shinken's reply, most stainless steels are at best about 2/3 as tough as carbon steel and any knife you want to be tough should be tempered back a little more to be a couple of points softer.

Lumping carbon steels together is a step too far for me as well - D2, for example, is a carbon steel, and it is a bugger to sharpen by comparison to A2, or L6, or the 10x series carbon steels, so the concept that carbons are easier than stainlesses to sharpen is a flawed argument at best.

There's a lot of knives being made at the moment that are far too hard. Fine for slicing - not so good for harder work, and a lot of folks have high expectations of them and some of them wonder why they end up holding the handle in one hand while the blade...

;)

A lot of people are saying how tough ESEE knives are - that's for four main reasons:

1. simple carbon steel

2. well executed heat treating

3. lower hardness than 'normal'

4. edge geometry that is slightly overbuilt

In plain English they took a slightly out of vogue but superb (if simple) carbon steel, tempered it back a couple of points softer and left the edge ever so slightly thicker, and hey-presto, it's a tough as old boots knife.

Knives are a lot more predictable in the field than many users realise.

High hardness + high load = broken knife

Lower hardness (slightly) + high load = :)

It's a simple equation which, unfortunately appears to be lost on many.

Ignoring laminated blades, if you want a tough stainless knife nothing comes remotely close to 12C27 and yet a lot of people look down on it as a poor cousin to the currently popular and in fashion stainless steels.

If you want even tougher, you go for any of the simpler carbon steels and selectively harden or temper them to have a softer back with a hard edge (but still no more than around RC57 - 58) and be amazed at what they can do.

High hardness is all well and good, in the right context, but it is overrated and vastly misunderstood.

Anyone who wants to argue the point should go away and Rockwell test some of the 'high performance' knives from ESEE and Cold Steel, which should really open a few eyes when the Rockwell readings are regularly 56 - 58; kind of flies right in the face of the current vogue of complex stainless steels (which are inherently less tough) at high hardness (which introduces greater likelihood of failure).

Let's look at that again, shall we ?

Less tough stainless + high hardness = ...

I'll get my coat, yet again...
 
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Samon

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 24, 2011
3,970
44
Britannia!
Yeah, I know, sorry for going off on one but it's something I'm passionate about that is so greatly misunderstood. I'll behave next time (maybe) :D

I think you made a very educated point mate.

The time spent caring about rockwell hardness' on knives could be spent in the woods with your SAK having tonnes of fun like we all used to before this catalogue of uber hard steels turned up to complicate things!
 

Shinken

Native
Nov 4, 2005
1,317
3
43
cambs
I suppose it is right hardness for job intended, if i make a machete i would make it softer. If a small whittler, i would temper it hard then try it in a knot if it chipped i would raise the tempering temp slightly (softening it) say 20c untill i get to a hardness where irt wont chip. With a machete i would do the same but then raise an extra notch and soften the spine
 

Xunil

Settler
Jan 21, 2006
671
3
55
North East UK
www.bladesmith.co.uk
Great knife indeed. However, how do I tell if I've got the stainless steel or carbon steel version?

...

In anticipation,
Grasshopper

For future reference, and in case this ever crops up again, an easy way to tell:

temagami-stainless.jpg


Note the word "stainless" in small letters etched to the left of the main Helle logo - dead giveaway :)

I only found out myself this morning when my stainless Temagami arrived :D
 

Nonsuch

Life Member
Sep 19, 2008
1,862
1
Scotland, looking at mountains
I too broke my F1 - in a smaller way - I took a chunk out of the edge trying to dig an arrow out of a tree - no hammering, just hand pressure. It rather underlines how brittle the central core is. I was pretty unimpressed. I'm unimpressed about what I just read about their Customer Service too.

Helle knives have got a reputation for chipping and breaking too but I have got on fine with mine. Never done any heavy work 'though

Another option would have been a nice hand-made 01 scandi-grind full tang knife next time it comes up on classifieds. They are really tough you will probably get a woodlore-style or bushtool-style for not much more than £100.
 
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Samon

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Mar 24, 2011
3,970
44
Britannia!
I too broke my F1 - in a smaller way - I took a chunk out of the edge trying to dig an arrow out of a tree - no hammering, just hand pressure. It rather underlines how brittle the central core is. I was pretty unimpressed. I'm unimpressed about what I just read about their Customer Service too.

Yep Fallkniven customer service suck. My DC4 sharpening stone came concave and not flat enough to use properly and they said I couldn't return it untill this june..I bought it in december! I stewed it in hot water to melt the glue and used the other side with better results..but still it isn't great for low sections of the blade.
 
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Fizzy

Nomad
Feb 8, 2010
343
0
Ash Vale
I contacted them when it happened. They didn't want to know. They quoted the proper legal situation in that I have privity of contract with the person(s) who supplied it to me, which is fair enough I suppose. I think it was about to run out of warranty so I didn't push it. I got it from Trueways and now they've ceased their online shop business I guess I'm out of options.

There's is (was) a Trueways shop in Guildford. Perhaps you could contact them?
 

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