No its not that so special to most on here and its only a Frosts but .....ooohhh its shiny and I l like it!!!
Fair play as well to the Good shop fast delivery!!!!!
Dave
Fair play as well to the Good shop fast delivery!!!!!
Dave
New arrival!
- Thread starter tommy the cat
- Start date
Looks lovely and when finished it will be how you wanted it to look and will be one you made yer self. That plus learn a hell of a lot too
Just thought I needed something a bit less ugly than the mora clipper
.
Cant wait to get started on it.
Dave
oh question the lanyard brass tube I bought is bigger than the hole in the knife...got to say there only seemed one size and considering I didn't know the size of the hole in the knife..... anyway order a diff size? drill out the knife lanyard hole?
Ta
.Cant wait to get started on it.
Dave
oh question the lanyard brass tube I bought is bigger than the hole in the knife...got to say there only seemed one size and considering I didn't know the size of the hole in the knife..... anyway order a diff size? drill out the knife lanyard hole?
Ta
Order a new bit of tube matey sooo much easier and cheaper than 12 B&Q drill bits at £4 a time...trust me on this
Order a new bit of tube matey sooo much easier and cheaper than 12 B&Q drill bits at £4 a time...trust me on this
There was a tip in Rapidboy's how-to and it worked for me - use a masonry bit instead of an HSS bit and the (tungsten carbide?) tip will do the job. Easier if you have a pillar drill
but take it steady and you'll get there.It'll get plenty hot too, so be careful
HTH
Rat
I just used the two holes which line up horizontally for bolts and ignored the two nearer the front as I was only fitting a single wooden scale each side and no brass bolster as you see on the pre-handled ones. Therefore mine doesn't have a lanyard hole....and I don't think that the factory handled ones do either.
I agree with the comments about drilling out a hole......the steels are so hard that all I've ever done is melt drill bits.....masonry bits weren't very successful either though that could just be me and poor method..
I agree with the comments about drilling out a hole......the steels are so hard that all I've ever done is melt drill bits.....masonry bits weren't very successful either though that could just be me and poor method..
They don't come with lanyard holes if I remember correctly. If you do want one, it's a 6mm drill bit and some time on a pillar drill.
There are some innovative ways around this if your wood is hard enough.
There are some innovative ways around this if your wood is hard enough.
I'm guessing it was here, Goliath http://thegoodstuffshop.dk/group.asp?group=3121&sub=940
Best regards,
Paul.
Best regards,
Paul.
Yes it was from the good stuff. Cant praise them enough ,prices seemed great and service second to non!!! Superb I will deffo deal with them again if I need owt else.
Dave
Dave
Well some probably stupid questions but I am king on them!!
As you see from the pic' above this blank comes without a lanyard hole...does anyone actually use one? Got some paracord on the sak but use it really to find it in my pocket.
Second question if I decide to go with one would widening up the existing hole be ok?
Which would meen only one brass pin fixing unless I drill another.
Finally the 'kit' came with solid brass pins how are they fixed in to the handle just glued?
Been looking at tutorials and remember a really good one fixing in liners really detailed but cant find it.
Ta Dave
As you see from the pic' above this blank comes without a lanyard hole...does anyone actually use one? Got some paracord on the sak but use it really to find it in my pocket.
Second question if I decide to go with one would widening up the existing hole be ok?
Which would meen only one brass pin fixing unless I drill another.
Finally the 'kit' came with solid brass pins how are they fixed in to the handle just glued?
Been looking at tutorials and remember a really good one fixing in liners really detailed but cant find it.
Ta Dave
I dont use them, Dave.
Unless one expects to find oneself in a situation where one is working with a knife above ground (rock climbing/in a tree/over deep water etc) and it would be a serious problem or cause possible injury to someone below you if you dropped it (or if one has a tendency to fumble knives on a fairly regular basis), its not really essential. If one uses a very deep friction fit sheath that comes almost to the top of the handle, a lanyard might be useful for removing the knife from its sheath. But this is all personal opinion.
There is no reason why you cant use the top pin hole as a lanyard hole, if the tang/liners/slabs are epoxied together. And theres no reason why you shouldnt enlarge the diameter of the top pin hole in the tang if necessary
To avoid pushing all the epoxy out of the slab/liner/tang/liner/slab arrangement when inserting the pin(s), you could cut a few grooves into the pin(s) either along the pins length or around its circumference. This will help retain some of the epoxy around the pin(s) and give the epoxy something to bite into on the smooth rod.
Best regards,
Paul.
Unless one expects to find oneself in a situation where one is working with a knife above ground (rock climbing/in a tree/over deep water etc) and it would be a serious problem or cause possible injury to someone below you if you dropped it (or if one has a tendency to fumble knives on a fairly regular basis), its not really essential. If one uses a very deep friction fit sheath that comes almost to the top of the handle, a lanyard might be useful for removing the knife from its sheath. But this is all personal opinion.
There is no reason why you cant use the top pin hole as a lanyard hole, if the tang/liners/slabs are epoxied together. And theres no reason why you shouldnt enlarge the diameter of the top pin hole in the tang if necessary
To avoid pushing all the epoxy out of the slab/liner/tang/liner/slab arrangement when inserting the pin(s), you could cut a few grooves into the pin(s) either along the pins length or around its circumference. This will help retain some of the epoxy around the pin(s) and give the epoxy something to bite into on the smooth rod.
Best regards,
Paul.
Thanks Paul regarding pins for some reason I thought that there would be some sort of male female type fitting ie a threaded female and male sort of thing.
I just got confused as how the pins (non threaded brass) actually helped hold everything together other than just glued in.
Cant wait to get started Dave
I just got confused as how the pins (non threaded brass) actually helped hold everything together other than just glued in.
Cant wait to get started Dave
I imagine you were thinking of these types of fittings when you ordered the brass rod for making pins:
http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pages/TKS_MainframeStore.htm?TKS_RivetsPommels1.htm~smain
Pins are just fine if they're well epoxied, and don't forget to use a slow-setting epoxy, its stronger than the fast-setting stuff. Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy is a brand that seems to be well thought of:
http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=179
Have fun!
Best regards,
Paul.
http://www.texasknife.com/store/s-pages/TKS_MainframeStore.htm?TKS_RivetsPommels1.htm~smain
Pins are just fine if they're well epoxied, and don't forget to use a slow-setting epoxy, its stronger than the fast-setting stuff. Devcon 2 Ton Epoxy is a brand that seems to be well thought of:
http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=179
Have fun!
Best regards,
Paul.
Forgot to mention this, Dave.
http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/cache/articles/nw1/scales1.htm
Its a tutorial by Nick Wheeler (one of the URLs in C_Claycombs Sticky Answers and Links for Frequent Knife Related Questions at the top of the forum) It pretty much covers it all. An excellent tutorial, and its for a knife handle with pins.
Best regards,
Paul.
http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/cache/articles/nw1/scales1.htm
Its a tutorial by Nick Wheeler (one of the URLs in C_Claycombs Sticky Answers and Links for Frequent Knife Related Questions at the top of the forum) It pretty much covers it all. An excellent tutorial, and its for a knife handle with pins.
Best regards,
Paul.
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