Getting to be that time of year. Someone asked me about snowshoes, so here goes.
To get started on snowshoes (agimeg), I prepare the materials before hand. Snowshoes consist of a wooden frame (any hardwood will do - except oak) and a rawhide lace (or babiche) weave.
For wood, I use black ash because it is plentiful, has good tensil strength, and is rot resistent. White ash is preferable, but it is sparse in our area. The frames can be sawn or split. Split wood is preferable because it is stronger, but it is much more work.
The rawhide can be most any strong hide. Before the advent of varnish, beaver was often used because the hide was greasy and the lace, or babiche, did not stretch so easily when wet. Since I can varnish my shoes, I use moose hide, if I can get it, or cowhide. Deer hide is a little light and stretches more than I like.
If I am using a sawn frame, I check the river for beaver cut ash and select a good straight grain log to tow out behind my canoe. I get it to my place and haul the log to the local sawyer. If I am doing 14" X 48" shoes, I have him cut one inch boards from a nine foot log. If I am doing seven foot shoes, I have him cut one inch boards from a 16 foot log. I cut the boards into strips, 7/8 inch square.
If I am splitting the log, I locate one in the same manner, and split the log in place. The first split is the hardest, and requires a very straight grained log. I continue to split the log down, always spliting from the center. When the piece gets to be about four inches thick, I can control the split, wedging the piece between two close growing trees, and bending the piece opposite the direction of the split. To further explain: You have one side of the piece in your left hand and one side of the piece in your right hand. If the split is working off center towards the right - bend the piece in your left hand, and the split will work back to center. To start the split, when the piece gets to this size and smaller, put your axe in the center of the piece you wish to split, and tap it with a piece of wood. Once the split is two or three feet, just use your hands to continue the split.
Once your piece is close to the size you want, shape it further with a drawknife or crooked knife. With split frames - you can go to a smaller diameter frame - as the wood will be stronger - as it follows the grain. I go to 3/4 inch or even 5/8 inch.
Once I get the frames home, I bend them onto a jig. The jig allows me to wedge the frame in place and holds it to the shape of snowshoe I desire.
I've used many methods of bending wood, a steam box, boiling the wood, or laying the wood in running water for two weeks. For hard bends, I may use a combination, such as laying the wood in water and steaming it besides. This allows me to do things like tie a 1'X 4" board in an overhand knot.
The last few years, I've been using a simple new method. To make the bend, I take an old terry-cloth towel and wrap it around the area I wish to bend (the center of the frame). I boil water in a tea kettle ( I have a two gallon tea kettle). I pour the boiling water over the towel. The towel retains the heat. I let the frame sit for a couple of minutes, pour more boiling water on the towel, and slowly make the bend. I wear an old pair of welding gloves so I don't burn my hands while making the bend.
This method is much simpler, quicker, and seems to work better than using a steam box.
Once I have the frame bent and wedged, I let it set for a bit and dry, then I take a torch and heat the bend. This "sets" the bend, and keeps it in shape. I also rivet or tie the tail of the shoe.
Once the frame is in shape, and before I remove it from the jig, I take a 1/4 inch chizel, very sharp, and make four grooves in the inside of the frame. Two of the grooves are made toward the toe, and two are made toward the tail. I make short cross-pieces, and shape the ends so they will fit in the grooves. This splits the shoe into three areas, the toe, the center, and the tail. Each area will have its own seperate babiche weave.
Well, that's enough for one post. I will talk about weaving the babiche in a further post.
If my kids ever get the computer fixed at home - I'll post some photos.
PG
To get started on snowshoes (agimeg), I prepare the materials before hand. Snowshoes consist of a wooden frame (any hardwood will do - except oak) and a rawhide lace (or babiche) weave.
For wood, I use black ash because it is plentiful, has good tensil strength, and is rot resistent. White ash is preferable, but it is sparse in our area. The frames can be sawn or split. Split wood is preferable because it is stronger, but it is much more work.
The rawhide can be most any strong hide. Before the advent of varnish, beaver was often used because the hide was greasy and the lace, or babiche, did not stretch so easily when wet. Since I can varnish my shoes, I use moose hide, if I can get it, or cowhide. Deer hide is a little light and stretches more than I like.
If I am using a sawn frame, I check the river for beaver cut ash and select a good straight grain log to tow out behind my canoe. I get it to my place and haul the log to the local sawyer. If I am doing 14" X 48" shoes, I have him cut one inch boards from a nine foot log. If I am doing seven foot shoes, I have him cut one inch boards from a 16 foot log. I cut the boards into strips, 7/8 inch square.
If I am splitting the log, I locate one in the same manner, and split the log in place. The first split is the hardest, and requires a very straight grained log. I continue to split the log down, always spliting from the center. When the piece gets to be about four inches thick, I can control the split, wedging the piece between two close growing trees, and bending the piece opposite the direction of the split. To further explain: You have one side of the piece in your left hand and one side of the piece in your right hand. If the split is working off center towards the right - bend the piece in your left hand, and the split will work back to center. To start the split, when the piece gets to this size and smaller, put your axe in the center of the piece you wish to split, and tap it with a piece of wood. Once the split is two or three feet, just use your hands to continue the split.
Once your piece is close to the size you want, shape it further with a drawknife or crooked knife. With split frames - you can go to a smaller diameter frame - as the wood will be stronger - as it follows the grain. I go to 3/4 inch or even 5/8 inch.
Once I get the frames home, I bend them onto a jig. The jig allows me to wedge the frame in place and holds it to the shape of snowshoe I desire.
I've used many methods of bending wood, a steam box, boiling the wood, or laying the wood in running water for two weeks. For hard bends, I may use a combination, such as laying the wood in water and steaming it besides. This allows me to do things like tie a 1'X 4" board in an overhand knot.
The last few years, I've been using a simple new method. To make the bend, I take an old terry-cloth towel and wrap it around the area I wish to bend (the center of the frame). I boil water in a tea kettle ( I have a two gallon tea kettle). I pour the boiling water over the towel. The towel retains the heat. I let the frame sit for a couple of minutes, pour more boiling water on the towel, and slowly make the bend. I wear an old pair of welding gloves so I don't burn my hands while making the bend.
This method is much simpler, quicker, and seems to work better than using a steam box.
Once I have the frame bent and wedged, I let it set for a bit and dry, then I take a torch and heat the bend. This "sets" the bend, and keeps it in shape. I also rivet or tie the tail of the shoe.
Once the frame is in shape, and before I remove it from the jig, I take a 1/4 inch chizel, very sharp, and make four grooves in the inside of the frame. Two of the grooves are made toward the toe, and two are made toward the tail. I make short cross-pieces, and shape the ends so they will fit in the grooves. This splits the shoe into three areas, the toe, the center, and the tail. Each area will have its own seperate babiche weave.
Well, that's enough for one post. I will talk about weaving the babiche in a further post.
If my kids ever get the computer fixed at home - I'll post some photos.
PG
