Making a leather sheath... What else do I need?

[Will_]

My wife got me some leather craft things last Christmas, but I never got round to getting started!
Now I'm on my Christmas holidays I'd like to get started by making a sheath for my MOD Survival Knife...

So far I have the Tandy Leather deluxe handstitching set which gave me
10 Harness Needles
3 spools Waxed Thread
Overstitch Spacer Set
Beeswax
Awl Haft
4 Awl Blades
Adjustable Groover
Instructions
I also have The Art Of Hand Sewing Leather book and a nice piece of thick leather.

I'm thinking I'll also need:
A stitching pony (which I'll try and make)
Leather glue?
Edge Cote?
Leather dye
Some really tough press studs...

Have I missed anything?
And can anyone recommend me some glue, press studs etc?...
Many thanks,

Will :theyareon

 

[bushwacker bob]

You already have more kit than most leather workers. I think you should manage.

 

[Robbi]

What about a Stanley knife and a steel rule ?

 

[Will_]

You already have more kit than most leather workers. I think you should manage.

Yeah maybe... I should probably just get started!
I could do with pointers for what glue and press studs to get though if anyone has any advice...

 

[Will_]

What about a Stanley knife and a steel rule ?

Good call. I've got the Stanley... Might search my Dad's garage for a steel ruler.

 

[Robbi]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-C...UK_Crafts_Leathercraft_LE&hash=item4d25fbf0df

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-Press-...s_Sewing_Supplies_MJ&var=&hash=item46095560de

These would keep you going for a while . ( get the 15mm pop studs )

 

[British Red]

I could do with pointers for what glue

Evostik Impact Adhesive

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Evo-Stik-...booking_Glue_Tape_EH&var=&hash=item418390ba60

 

[Will_]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Leather-C...UK_Crafts_Leathercraft_LE&hash=item4d25fbf0df

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-Press-...s_Sewing_Supplies_MJ&var=&hash=item46095560de

These would keep you going for a while . ( get the 15mm pop studs )

Are the press studs able to go through 3mm/4mm leather?

Much obliged for the replies gentlemen...
What should I go for between these 2?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiebings-Leathercraft-Cement-Flexible-Non-Flammable-Adhesive-4-Oz-/281454728619?pt=UK_Clothing_ShoeCare_Shoe_Care_LE&hash=item41880255ab
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Evo-Stik-Impact-Adhesive-Contact-Adhesive-Multi-Glue-Adhesive-Cleaner-/281380174432?pt=UK_Crafts_Cardmaking_Scrapbooking_Glue_Tape_EH&var=&hash=item418390ba60&clk_rvr_id=748817073058
If they're both about the same, I'll get the Evo-Stik as it's cheaper per ml.
If the Fiebings is better, then I'll get that...

 

[allrightscud]

I use Asda own brand contact adhesive. Its 1 pound a tube. I tested it first and the leather parted before the glued joint so I reckon it'll do.

 

[Robbi]

With contact adhesive you get ONE chance, with the Fiebings you have time to make adjustments

 

[Robbi]

Are the press studs able to go through 3mm/4mm leather ?

.

Sure will

add a hole punch to your list.

 

[allrightscud]

With contact adhesive you get ONE chance, with the Fiebings you have time to make adjustments

Once its cured yes but it is moveable until its cured. On the occasions I've had to separate a bonded joint I had to cut it apart with a Stanley knife to adjust it. I also use the black “winged” large paper clips, not sure what they are actually called, to hold the joint together to cure. Its best to use some sort of scrap leather or card in between the metal clip and the leather your working on in case it marks the project.

 

[g4ghb]

I use small cheap (pound shop) clamps like these - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-x-PLAST...t=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4603b16810 they are kind enough to not clamp too tight though I ovten use a little scrap leather to 'mask' them so they don't create marks.

also a cheap 'self healing' cutting mat http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A4-Hobby-...craft_Tools_Accessories_2&hash=item2346d195c2 is a good think to protect the bench. you can use a bit of hardboard but it tends to get carved up after a while.

you are on a slippery slope though...... there will always be something else you 'need' and dont watch any of Ians videos they are just too tempting!

 

[Will_]

you are on a slippery slope though...... there will always be something else you 'need'

I certainly seem to be!
I've ordered the press studs, some Fiebings Edge Kote, a steel rule and a cutting mat.
Going to make a decision and buy the glue today...

Can I just use a drill instead of a punch, or hammer a nail through the leather?

And does anyone know a good source for D rings or steel rings? (The kind that can link a sheath to a belt loop - I think people call them dangler sheaths maybe?)

Thanks again for all the advice.

 

[g4ghb]

Going to make a decision and buy the glue today....

You can get away with glue if you want - I ofton don't use it at all

Can I just use a drill instead of a punch, or hammer a nail through the leather?

you can use a drill (pillar, dremel etc) but it removes leather rather than parting it as when you use a awl or a punch.

 

[Macaroon]

If you use a nail or pin to make holes in light coloured and/or damp leather, make them brass ones to avoid marking.

 

[Dreadhead]

sounds like you have more than enough, though I agree with the wise council above for a cutting mat and steel rule (cork backed are best for non-slip). I would also add a good pair of pliers can be handy for pulling your needles through. be sure to post up your progress and have fun with it

P.S if you are unsure about pop studs, sam brown studs are a great alternative.

 

[tim_n]

I bought cheepo studs off ebay. Do they go through 3mm? Yes sort of. You'll break a few though Generally they're easy to pull out and cheap enough not to care.

I bought a load from Leprevo - didn't seem to be much difference in quality really. Slightly better I'd say.

 

[Toadflax]

If you're new to setting studs, it's worth having a look at the video below.

Particularly when setting in thin leather, and when using steel based press studs, you may find that the stem of the male base piece bends over, rather than just splaying out. This can result in an occasional stud that comes loose in use.

When I first started, I was finding that this only happened occasionally (perhaps 1 stud in 50) but often enough to be a nuisance.

I eventually discovered this Tandy video on how to set the studs, and following the technique in there seems to have solved the problem - all studs now peen over without the stem bending. It's the rotation of the setting tool as you hammer that is the key (illustrated at 30s and 1m10s in this video: http://www.tandyleather.eu/en-gbp/Se...Line-20-S.aspx).


Geoff

 

[Will_]

sounds like you have more than enough, though I agree with the wise council above for a cutting mat and steel rule (cork backed are best for non-slip). I would also add a good pair of pliers can be handy for pulling your needles through. be sure to post up your progress and have fun with it

P.S if you are unsure about pop studs, sam brown studs are a great alternative.

Thanks for all the advice everyone.
Hamish - Seeing your work on this forum was my first taste of what could be done! I love it!
I'll post up my progress...