Longbow No 2 a mini tutorial
- Thread starter stovie
- Start date
-
Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
stovie said:No worries Bardster. Didn't take it personally
Just forked out for all three volumes of TTBB...maybe I should have just paid £12 for the mag
I'm curious, what draw weight do you prefer? I Find 50# @ 28" plenty enough...
should have said - might have sold you my copies - dont tend to use them
My everyday bow is a 53#@28" but i have just got a 60# for clout shooting. Its a self yew bow from wood that i cut myself
Though I didnt make it. I have yet to attempt my first yew bow. I also have some osage orange waiting to be turned into bows when i get the courage 
Bardster said:should have said - might have sold you my copies - dont tend to use them
My everyday bow is a 53#@28" but i have just got a 60# for clout shooting. Its a self yew bow from wood that i cut myself
And I would have taken you up on the offer...though didn't do too badly
I am about to embark on a Yew stave...dreading it, what with all its knots and the like...
I understand the dread. I have a couple osage staves drying right now. I want to start them, but yet want to do a couple more board bows first....(until I find another local rancher to let me cut some more osage) but then,,,I want to start them.....
I'm saving for the TBB now. I think by spring I'll be able to handle the distractions of so many options, and hopefully have enough in the penny jar to make the jump.
I'm saving for the TBB now. I think by spring I'll be able to handle the distractions of so many options, and hopefully have enough in the penny jar to make the jump.
I fancy having a go at making a couple of small bows, for my kids and me.
I can get nice red oak and maple boards from the local DIY shop.
I suppose I need to look for nice straight grain, free of any knots or twistiness...
But what else should I be looking for, and what sort of shape do I need to give to the bow?
Any diagrams about?
I think that a nice light pull of around 10lbs to 12lbs would suit my son (5 yrs old), and around 30lbs to 35lbs for me... I'm not yet up to the 50lbs that I used to use when I was practising twice a week
Strings and arrows I can find in a sporting goods shop, though it would be nice to make some arrows, too. Poplar dowelling seems to be easily available.
K.
I can get nice red oak and maple boards from the local DIY shop.
I suppose I need to look for nice straight grain, free of any knots or twistiness...
But what else should I be looking for, and what sort of shape do I need to give to the bow?
Any diagrams about?
I think that a nice light pull of around 10lbs to 12lbs would suit my son (5 yrs old), and around 30lbs to 35lbs for me... I'm not yet up to the 50lbs that I used to use when I was practising twice a week
Strings and arrows I can find in a sporting goods shop, though it would be nice to make some arrows, too. Poplar dowelling seems to be easily available.
K.
Keith
This article by Tim baker is as good a starting point as any. It uses boards as it's starting point. First Bow
Kids bows should be around the height of the individual and tillered proportionately. I'd suggest as a first attempt, make a flat bow from pine (yes I know its a soft wood) but the amount of draw required will not give any of the problems you might associate with heavier weights. Easy to tiller and light...
I use dowling, but I spend hours going through the stock at my local hardware shop (they're used to me by now ) looking for the best I can find.
This article by Tim baker is as good a starting point as any. It uses boards as it's starting point. First Bow
Kids bows should be around the height of the individual and tillered proportionately. I'd suggest as a first attempt, make a flat bow from pine (yes I know its a soft wood) but the amount of draw required will not give any of the problems you might associate with heavier weights. Easy to tiller and light...
I use dowling, but I spend hours going through the stock at my local hardware shop (they're used to me by now
) looking for the best I can find.
stovie said:Keith
This article by Tim baker is as good a starting point as any. It uses boards as it's starting point. First Bow
Kids bows should be around the height of the individual and tillered proportionately. I'd suggest as a first attempt, make a flat bow from pine (yes I know its a soft wood) but the amount of draw required will not give any of the problems you might associate with heavier weights. Easy to tiller and light...
I use dowling, but I spend hours going through the stock at my local hardware shop (they're used to me by now
Thanks, Stovie. I had looked at that article, as well as a couple of others, but thought it worth asking the question anyway.
I wonder about safety; with a light bow of 10lbs or so, I hope that ther's not too much danger of the bow breaking.
I also wonder about making the grip a little thicker, to reduce flexing so that I can glue a block to make it more comfortable. I'd like to use fish or hide and bone glue for that. Do you think those glues would hold?
K.
There should not be an issue around breakage just because of low draw weight, as the little one is not going to have an adult draw length, therefore it will be proportionate to the individual.
A handle glued onto the belly using the glues you mention should hold alright. Though personally I use resin based glues with a hardener...that way it wont move .
I obviously don't know the height of the child in question, but make the length of bow their height, middle 4" as a handle 3/4" wide, then the limb 1" wide straight tapering to 1/4" at the nocks (you can reduce the tips to 3/16"). The depth (apart from the handle) could be belly tillered from 1/2" to 1/4" at nocks and again reduced to 3/16" at tips.
If you use a pine board this should give a bow with a light but safe tiller.
A handle glued onto the belly using the glues you mention should hold alright. Though personally I use resin based glues with a hardener...that way it wont move
.I obviously don't know the height of the child in question, but make the length of bow their height, middle 4" as a handle 3/4" wide, then the limb 1" wide straight tapering to 1/4" at the nocks (you can reduce the tips to 3/16"). The depth (apart from the handle) could be belly tillered from 1/2" to 1/4" at nocks and again reduced to 3/16" at tips.
If you use a pine board this should give a bow with a light but safe tiller.
I found this site a while back while looking for info on bow making so this helps a lot. The more info the better.
Excellent. Thank you.
The old link has obviously become defunct, as PP moved to a new hosting site. This should do it
http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/6222/t/YOUR-FIRST-WOODEN-BOW.html
http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/topic/6222/t/YOUR-FIRST-WOODEN-BOW.html
Very nice bow Stovie
Just put my shoulder out so no more making or shooting for me
Well done for the tutorial..
Just put my shoulder out so no more making or shooting for me
Well done for the tutorial..
D
Dunne
Guest
hi stovie
nice bow just putting the finishing to my frist bow and i made mine from ash , a flat bow something like yours but i put a arrow shelf on mine because i shoot target archery and thats the way i like to shoot but yours looks a lot better then mine good job
Dunne
nice bow just putting the finishing to my frist bow and i made mine from ash , a flat bow something like yours but i put a arrow shelf on mine because i shoot target archery and thats the way i like to shoot but yours looks a lot better then mine good job
Dunne
