Leather Craft..... Tools, where to purchase in the UK?

[leon-1]

where I reckoned to via the overstitch wheel punch the holes with the awl, to start with, for pricking irons to perhaps come later, when I know more of what I'm doing. to know what I need.

Sharps; I have plenty to choose from, from scalpels, to craft knives and a rotary knife, also a razor thin and sharp leather knife I have had since the mid nineties when my first foray into leatherwork was making battle re-enactment kit, where incidentally that lot was sewn together with beeswax infused linen I got off a cobbler, using sail making needles and I do have a sail makers palm.

Books, I have a copy of Stohlman's ; ' The Art of hand sewing leather '

But thanks on the info regarding needles as that was a particular sticking point. So over the next few days I will be getting together a list and start getting familiar with the suppliers websites.

And ordinarily I am a small metals smith of sorts for all my tools to be polished to be well used to that satisfying activity, the awl will go the same way.

Beware of the overstitch wheel for marking stitching points. There is play in the wheel which means that it may provide uneven stitches. I started off using one and I found that two areas that required stitching together that require separate marking could end up with a different number of marked points over the same distance. It is what it says it is, it's for setting a stitch after the stitch has been placed (for going over the top of the stitch). Pricking wheels are infact what you need, but they are more expensive than a pricking iron.

Flat Pricking Irons

Round Pricking Irons

I know they are from China and you will have to wait, but the black rounded ones are the ones I bought for students to work with and they're pretty good and cheap.

I like sail makers palm's, the new leather workers palm's are not as good IMHO.

The edge burnisher I use is a bone folder, my favourite is actually bone, but there are plastic ones out there that work very well. As I said any smooth hard surface will work.

The point about polishing the awl blade was well made, I normally use wet 'n' dry and then a polishing compound on a leather matt.

 

[Silverclaws2]

Beware of the overstitch wheel for marking stitching points. There is play in the wheel which means that it may provide uneven stitches. I started off using one and I found that two areas that required stitching together that require separate marking could end up with a different number of marked points over the same distance. It is what it says it is, it's for setting a stitch after the stitch has been placed (for going over the top of the stitch). Pricking wheels are infact what you need, but they are more expensive than a pricking iron.

Flat Pricking Irons

Round Pricking Irons

I know they are from China and you will have to wait, but the black rounded ones are the ones I bought for students to work with and they're pretty good and cheap.

I like sail makers palm's, the new leather workers palm's are not as good IMHO.

The edge burnisher I use is a bone folder, my favourite is actually bone, but there are plastic ones out there that work very well. As I said any smooth hard surface will work.

The point about polishing the awl blade was well made, I normally use wet 'n' dry and then a polishing compound on a leather matt.

Point taken re overstitch wheels being primarily designed for setting stitches as opposed to marking holes as I had originally envisaged, I shall have to revise my list. But primarily my original reason for thinking this way of which was to use an overstitch wheel to mark holes then skewer them with a awl was because I was unsure of what pricking irons to get.

So of the links you have kindly provided, what do I need, a set ( 3,4.5 and 6mm) of each in either flat or round pricking irons, or set of each in both round and flat?

And yes I had envisaged some potential sloppiness in the overstitch wheel through observing images of, to have already had it in mind to be introducing some packing to minimise or inhibit the potential play I perceived. But if the tool isn't for marking out I don't need to get one in the first instance.

And I am not bothered about stuff being made in China for I am aware of what they can do depending upon price point of course.

My sailmaker's palm was my Fathers, from when he was in the Sea Cadets, sometime back in the 1950's.

 

[Silverclaws2]

What are you thinking about making as it has an influence on what you are buying.

Soft thin leathers may require glovers needles, but veg tan, for harder leathers you will need harness needles (Size 1 John James harness needles).
You will require an awl, for hard leather you are better off using a rhombic awl than a clickers awl or the like.
If you are looking at making a sheath or a pouch you will need pricking irons, either 5 or six to an inch is normally pretty good.
Beeswax is a must, especially if you are stitching hard leather with linen threads, if you can't get beeswax then use a good clear boot polish. (That was a good tip from Toddy).
Use a leatherman or needle nosed pliers for pushing or pulling needles through leather. Use a craft knife or stanley knife for cutting thicker leather, scissors or a cutting wheel will work on thinner leather.
A stitch groover for heavy leathers will be good to recess your stitching.

For burnishing the edges of hard leather you can use any hard smooth surface, I have used bic biro's and spoons amongst other things.

18/3 linen thread is a good multipurpose thread, but as a natural fibre it is more susceptible to abrasion. Ritza braid known as tiger thread is pre waxed and a good alternative.

So far on the list is;

1. An A4 sort of sized single compartment shoulder bag, nothing fancy, just something I can use when am grubbing around in the sticks, for the gathering and transporting of 'stuff' - made one before to know how useful they are, to be miffed I lost it.

2 A 'Bushcraft Belt' of which I hope to make out of what's it 'Bridle leather'; copying the old 'Boy Scout' belt, but sew where stuff needs joining instead of rivet as the very early examples of those belt were sewn, and I have a very early Boy Scout belt buckle to fit into it.

3 A 'Nav Pouch' to primarily store/carry a Suunto MC-2 Mirror compass, map pen, romer and magnifier.

4 Sheath for Opinel No12 and No 18 folding saw

5 Sheath for my Billhook

6 A cover for my A6 sized field notebook

6. Watch Face cover

7. Various other small pouches and sleeves .