Lansky Sharpening System

[johnnytheboy]

Hi There,

Just wondering if anyone could recomend what kit to get, I would like to sharpen up some knifes but i dont have the time or patience to learn how to do it free hand, plus i can be a wee bit hamfisted at times.

I seen the videos and they look dead easy, all be it promotional videos usually do, but i recon i could manage this.

I read someone said the dimond wears out dead quick but is it a total loss? is the normal one better?

Is this a worthwhile investment.

Thanks again guys

 

[Lurch]

I found it to be a bit of a fag to be honest.
Too fiddly.

 

[HillBill]

Hi There,

Just wondering if anyone could recomend what kit to get, I would like to sharpen up some knifes but i dont have the time or patience to learn how to do it free hand, plus i can be a wee bit hamfisted at times.

I seen the videos and they look dead easy, all be it promotional videos usually do, but i recon i could manage this.

I read someone said the dimond wears out dead quick but is it a total loss? is the normal one better?

Is this a worthwhile investment.

Thanks again guys

Is it just for secondary bevels? Flat scandi and convex grinds are pretty easy to sharpen on wetstones or wet and dry. Just put a mouse mat under the paper for convex.

 

[markheolddu]

What about a sharp maker or somthing similar? You can get croc sticks for about £20 I think. It all depends on what you want to do with your knife and the type of edge you start with. I find they work well on knives with a secondry bevel not good on convex ( just my opinion).

Mark

 

[markheolddu]

Must type faster, must type faster.

 

[johnnytheboy]

Its just knifes like swiss army knifes, my ukpk etc, i dont have an knifes withflat grinds, i think it looks straight forward on thse type of blades. Sorry should have explained myself a little better.

Lurch what was wrong with it? is it a waste of money?

 

[Goatboy]

Hi,
Had one for over twenty years, and a Gatco. They're good if yer ham fisted or have to do some SERIOUS resharpening from scratch due to a ding in the metal. If you're careful they can produce good results. Often use them when customers want a refurb on a blade that has been hammered as a start point. Though you have to go for the top end ones to get the fine hones. An old unglased china tea-cup base and Mr. Mears handy/landy window technique followed by a strop are still best for finishing. Must say Belzebob and I use a "bladetec" for in the field sharpening.. (even though I gave the sellers a hard time first time I saw one as I thought all pre-sets were pants). it gives a good working edge in a few strokes, the new ones are seemingly better. Jap stone may still be the way forward how-ever.
Goatboy

 

[johnnytheboy]

What one was best the gatco or the lansky one, they look very similar?

I think form what you guys are saying the kinda knifes i have are the secondry bevel type, would like a bushcraft knife some day when i'm flush, but just stick with i have just now and keep them maintained.

 

[Draven]

Yeah, SAKs are full flat grinds with a secondary bevel - the ones I've used anyway, though I'm far from a collector so there may be different ones too. In fact, from what I've seen, the vast majority of smal folding knives have a full flat grind with a secondary bevel - I've also had a few with a hollow grind and secondary, but they tend to be the larger ones in my experience.

IMHO, absolutely nothing beats sandpaper on a mousemat for any secondary bevel. It's what I've used on all my pocket knives and it's never failed me

Pete

 

[HillBill]

IMHO, absolutely nothing beats sandpaper on a mousemat for any secondary bevel. It's what I've used on all my pocket knives and it's never failed me

Pete

I agree. Very very easy to do. Gives it a slight convex edge which is sharp and will last a while.

 

[johnnytheboy]

I like the idea of the paper and mouse mat as i work in a bodyshop and have access to enough sandpaper to polish the cairngorms, but i have tried it and i end up making it worse than better, its one of those things i could probably get but with all the diy on the go in the house and the pressures from swmbo to turn it around in time for her party, time for learning new skills are at a premium just now, it just looks fool proof in the instructional video!!!!!!!!!!

 

[trail2]

Easy to use and not much money. I keep one in my truck for when I'm out and about and another at home. The "mobile" one often gets a work out at public camp sites when someone needs blade worked on.
Jon R.

 

[Chainsaw]

John,

I've got an edgepro apex you can have a wee shot of but 600/1200 sand paper on a mouse mat is awesomely effective.

let us know,

Cheers,

Alan

 

[wizard]

The Lansky thing is junk, more likely to ruin a blade with that shapener. I once bought one, gave it a good try, tossed it.
The EdgePro Apex is an excellent system and works very well on double bevel blades like the SAK.
I find a good waterstone is real easy to use for a shaving sharp edge on a Scandi bevel though.
Overall, I have tried all sorts of sharpeners and the Lansky was by far the worst. The Spyderco Sharpmaker is also a good sharpener for a reasonable price. Good luck!

 

[FGYT]

DMT also do a version which works fairly well
http://www.dmtsharp.com/press/aligner.htm
i use it to Finish blades ive made to ensure the angle is what i say it is.
Ive used DMT stones for years and have several in differnt sizes and grits etc

ATB

Duncan

 

[HillBill]

I like the idea of the paper and mouse mat as i work in a bodyshop and have access to enough sandpaper to polish the cairngorms, but i have tried it and i end up making it worse than better, its one of those things i could probably get but with all the diy on the go in the house and the pressures from swmbo to turn it around in time for her party, time for learning new skills are at a premium just now, it just looks fool proof in the instructional video!!!!!!!!!!

You need to keep the blade almost flat on the wet and dry, use a little pressure to get the mouse mat to mould round the blades edge and stroke away. Start on 240 grit give it a few strokes each side, then 400, then 600. You can go higher if you want, then strop. This should give you a razor edge without much hassle.

I use this on scandi blades too to give them a micro convex, it strengthens the edge without losing cutting ability.

 

[Dave Budd]

I've used most systems over the years (the lansky and gatco being the first) and I keep getting frustrated with them for various resons, mostly coz they are a fag to set up and maintain.

My advice (from a professional knife sharpener as well as a user and maker), learn to sharpen properly freehand on a stone. It is the fastest, cheapest and most flexible method. It can also be applied to sharpening other things like chisels and axes if you swithch to a flexible or super falt backing accordingly (ie mousemat for axes/convex edges and glass for flat backs ike chisels).

If you are at the moot then just ask and I'll show you how I do it



edit. markheolddu I really like that knife in your avatar

 

[Draven]

I use this on scandi blades too to give them a micro convex, it strengthens the edge without losing cutting ability.

Ditto for me! We might not agree on much, but knives appears to be one thing

 

[JonathanD]

I agree, the Lansky system is a pain in the bottom. I prefer the Sharpmaker or a stone. Well worth learning how to use a stone freehand as it opens up the world of knife using completely.

 

[Native Justice]

+1 for the DMT aligner product. Excellent product thats easy to setup and use. Puts an excellent edge on a knife. Consider the DMT Quad Mag aligner which has four grits (really great for getting a hair splitting edge). The knife holder will also work with large full size oil and water stones so the versatility is endless. Helped me to learn to free hand very quickly.