Knifemaking feedback - All appreciated!

[ejtrent]

Hello everyone!

Hope you're all well, my names Elliott Trent and I'm an aspiring knifemaker - I've actually sold a knife here the other day and was wondering if I could get some input from you bushcrafty fellas.

This is the knife I'm currently making, I've sold a few so far and they seem popular - the main feedback I'm getting is that people appreciate a simple design with an interesting visual aesthetic, so thats nice!



As far as grind goes, this is my main reason for posting here really, would there be modifications that I could do to it that might make it more appealing as a bushcraft knife specifically - potentially a scandi grind? spine jimping? I do think it's in good shape at the moment to be a bushcraft knife, more like a traditional puukko, but I was just wondering if there was anything in particular I could look at.

Thanks!

 

[scottisha5]

I’m on holiday so not used mine yet but my twopence on bushcraft knives is that they are a personal preference. Jimping takes away part of the spine that can be used for scraping wood for tinder and for ferro rod striking. Using the spine further away from the handle makes it less controlable.
As for scandi grinds, The Ray Mears/Alan Woods style of knife is a proven winner but is by no means the be all and end all.
Many of us like different styles and are always looking for the ultimate piece of kit.
Your Trent Allen knife I think ticks loads of boxes and I applaud you for being different and having the metal to offer something other than “another” scandi woodlore clone.

Best wishes,

John

 

[KenThis]

I think you've nailed it.
If/when I have the cash I would love to have one. In fact if I hadn't had some unexpected bills recently I may well have ordered already.
I'm by no means an expert but the grind looks fine to me. A sabre is basically a high Scandi with a micro bevel. So it should be fine for wood work and be a little more useful for food prep.
My only slight concern would be how comfortable the handle is for bigger hands and extended use.
I'm eagerly looking forward to the upcoming review, but I firmly believe you're onto a winner.
I'd definitely keep it as it is for now. There are plenty of scandi knives out there, yours stands out through design and the sabre grind.
You might want to think about taking some to the bushmoot this summer so that people can handle them in person.

EDIT I just read Scottisha5 and completely agree.

 

[Robbi]

I think what you have created is so refreshing in what is essentially a "woodlore" style monopoly on bushcraft knives.
It's a beautiful knife and i love that grind and the orange highlights set it off a treat......... Now, if you did one in stainless it would be perfect ☺

 

[ejtrent]

Thank you for the kind words chaps

With regards to the size of the handle, I do definitely see what you mean - and larger hands doing the four finger grip/full fist grip for power strikes and stuff could end up having it feel a little small. However I see this more reminsicent of a scalpel or precision kinda knife, for more detailed work rather than straight heavy bush work. Will of course listen to any feedback people might have after use hopefully my 'coffin' profile on the knife will fit into the palm like ive designed it to

 

[Janne]

If you aim the knife to be more precision work, the blade should be thinner. As it is now I think it will make a superb all round knife!

Also a little bit of contouring, with a hint of a front quillon would be good.

 

[snappingturtle]

Less is more so what you have is good, If it was me just adapt what you have to taste, diffing grinds and slight changes for different hands and maybe have the spine rounded to an inch or so beyond the scales and then a good and sharp 90 after that for ferro rods and scraping? also a distal taper is a nice refinement for non scandi grinds and small adjustments to the butt of the handle maybe more rounded or cant the angle to the spine or the blade as you have it now.

 

[zackerty]

As is, is just fine, seriously.

 

[ejtrent]

Thanks for the vote of confidence!

Should I look to offer in a stainless? Price would go up of course but is it that much of a selling feature when O1 provides a very nice edge and takes just a basic amount of care

 

[Robson Valley]

Very much an excellent example of a general purpose knife. I'd be most willing to do a little TLC as ask for anything in S/S.

Handle diameters. A concept which works well for straight and crooked knives and adzes here in the Pacific Northwest sets the handle size.
Palm up, fist grip, the tips of your second and third fingers should just touch the fat ball part of your thumb. The "Kestrel Constant."

For me with big hands and long fingers, that is a 7/8" x 7/8" starting block. 3/4" cramps my hand a little and bigger than 1" is slippery.

 

[bobnewboy]

It looks like a great user. I know you are primarily interested in comments regarding the blade/grind - I wouldnt change it - but for me the stopping point is the sheath, and possibly the tubes used in the handle. I understand your earlier comments regarding leaving knives in wet leather sheaths, but most people who would buy a custom knife would ensure that the situation mentioned doesnt happen. I just cannot warm to the kydex item and would only consider a knife with a solid leather sheath, whether it is a western or puukko style one. The only other point is the material used in the handle tubes - is it brass/copper? If so, I find that those materials corrode or discolour too quickly to have a place in an outdoor knife, so it would be stainless tubes for me.

Maybe I'm a bit out there in these opinions, but all feedback is useful I hope

Cheers, Bob

 

[ejtrent]

Thanks for the input Bob!

Leather work is something I'm yet to turn my hand to, and I'm very much a 'keep it in house' kinda guy. Kydex can be a surprisingly good option once you get used to it - but it doesnt have that time aged look to it, doesnt get that patina you see in heirloom materials like carbon steel or leather!

The tubes as it stands are brass, but I'm considering switching over to all CF tubes - they are really easy to work with and look very smart. It's quite nice though that John has a rather unique knife as it stands, a true one off!

 

[Janne]

Kydex is a fantastic material, I would say the only negative is it will scratch/wear the very beautiful handle.

But, it is a user........so Kydex is fine.
S/s or Carbon?

Make both. Widens the appeal.

 

[ejtrent]

The handle should wear relatively well, boxwood ages to a beautiful pale orange from years of use an applications of linseed oil - I actually chose boxwood due to its heritage within my furniture making trade, its always been the gold standard for chisel handles. The Wenge is equally hard and durable, so together they should make a good team!

decades old boxwood chisel handles:



As far as S/S goes, it's a tough choice as I could go top end with sometihng like CPM-154 or stay a little plainer (and cheaper) with N690, I think I may leave it to the customers and have S/S on request, but definitely as an option.

 

[Janne]

If you plan to offer it in S/s, then the Swedish 13C26 is one of the best stainless steels you can want in a blade.
Another good one is 19C27
No need to go into the exotics for a working knife.

 

[Nice65]

Thanks for the input Bob!

Leather work is something I'm yet to turn my hand to, and I'm very much a 'keep it in house' kinda guy. Kydex can be a surprisingly good option once you get used to it - but it doesnt have that time aged look to it, doesnt get that patina you see in heirloom materials like carbon steel or leather!

The tubes as it stands are brass, but I'm considering switching over to all CF tubes - they are really easy to work with and look very smart. It's quite nice though that John has a rather unique knife as it stands, a true one off!

You know my feelings on the knife itself, does it need tubes? The diameter is tiny for passing thread through, and the internals unless chamfered would soon cut it. Couple of CF or brass pins might look nicer.

I say this as I’ve had plenty of time to look at the knife, it’s the only thing that I keep noticing as being a little out. The whole thing is a very original take on the bushcraft/field knife anyway, artistic licence is a given.

 

[ejtrent]

Yeah definitely agree, it was initially just a visual flare kinda thing, and they are countersunk slightly to ease the insides.

Finishing a couple up over the next few days so ill be sure to post pics!

 

[C_Claycomb]

I have made a bunch of Kydex sheaths, most for knives with Micarta or Tufnol (phenolic laminate) handles. That material is harder than wood, including box, and the leading edge of the handle can still get scratched up a lot by fine grit that gets into the sheath. Kydex does not give. Grit in leather when trapped between the handle material and the leather, will tend to squash into the leather rather than cut the handle. In Kydex there is no where for the grit to go into the plastic without scoring it, and it will score up the handle at least as much. Not so much of a problem if you are not using the leading edge of the handle to spread the sheath to get a positive "click" retention.

I find that brass goes green when in the presence of leather, but when it is just in air, it doesn't corrode so much. I do agree though that stainless would be better. It won't change appearance over time and eliminates the concerns of the collectors and users who don't like brass.

I don't think there is anything particular to change on the grind, it could go higher, but I wouldn't try going for a Scandi grind. I might look at altering the profile to have a bit more point, move the belly further back, as per the Skookum. That will improve the knife's ability to carve tighter turns, as found on spoons and the like. A continuously curved blade can also help with feather sticks, if the curve is done in such a way that the knife does not slide out of the cut. I once used someone's version of a Skookum side by side with a Rod Garcia Skookum. They didn't look all that different, but cutting was worlds apart with the copy slipping out of cuts that the Skookum would slice through with ease. Both had bellies further back, and continuous curves, but the copy had the curve angled so that it all sloped away from the bottom of the handle, and the Skookum dropped just a little before sweeping to the tip. I have sine made a few blades with a similar geometry and have been very impressed with how they cut, compared to straight edges.

Chris

 

[KenThis]

There's a lot to be said for some of the suggestions that have been made.
Definitely give it some thought.

HOWEVER.
I'd be careful making too many changes and ending up with a knife designed by committee.
It's your design, it's unusual and it's striking.
Maybe wait for some user unput into anything that 'harms' how the knife works. If necessary tne that.
Keep this version as is and incorporate some of the above suggestions in new designs...

I think there are many different ways to design a knife to do as many different jobs.
It's very subjective and what works for one is terrible for another.
It would be a shame if this example was remade in another's image, keep it yours...

 

[C_Claycomb]

LOL. I hope that learning what a picky, capricious and opinionated group knife buyers and bushcrafters are is not too painful an experience.

• Thoroughly research your design, get input from a bunch of experienced users and then do your design and you will be accused of YOUR knife being designed by committee.
• Don't do research or talk to experienced users and then do your design the way you like, and you will be accused of designing a fancy (or fantasy) draw queen.
• Choose carbon steel for ease of sharpening, impact resistance, and keeping costs down, and you catch flak for using boring steel, that rusts, like everyone else.
• Use a high end stainless and you will catch flak for using something that is hard to sharpen "won't take an edge" and that is too fancy..."what can it do that a £15 Mora can't".
• Use nice wood and you will have people complain if it swells, shrinks, needs attention, and some folk just don't like wood, even when it is £45 a set Iron wood.
• Use man-made and people will say it is ugly, too tactical, too heavy...and they just don't like man-made!

Every single material, feature, curve and nuance will have fans and detractors. The more successful you are marketing and selling, the more likely you are to find people complaining about what they see as deficiencies.

No pleasing everyone!!!

Right now you have something that is clean and stylish. That sets it apart from many other offerings out there. Personally I think that in making it so clean you have sacrificed ergonomics and some usability, but there is no point in critiquing a knife for not being something it isn't. You could just as well criticise one of my knives for having too many curves.