Joker Folding Knives - Advice on scales and grind

[Totumpole]

I have just taken delivery of part of my recent spending spree - 2 Joker drop point folders. 1 is a stainless blade with olive wood scales, the other a carbon blade with beech scales.

I'm not sure if the scales have been treated at all and was wondering if anyone had any previous experience of advice as to wether I should oil or wax the scales, or leave them alone.

Also, as many of you probably know theyare a full convex grind. I was considering using my RWS sharpener on them (this one http://www.raymears.com/Bushcraft_Product/807-RWS-Quick-Sharp-Knife-Sharpener/) which would give them a secondary bevel. The reason for doing this would be for ease of field sharpening, as I dont think Im good enough with my DC3 to keep a consistent convex edge. I know its ultimately down to personal preference, but if anyone can share previous experiences on the matter it would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Colin

 

[luckylee]

hi mate, dont ruin the convex edge it is very easy to keep them sharp, once you have done it at home with sand paper and a mouse mate, and then when your out take a strop, and you will be fine.
as for the scales i have just done a sheath for one of these, and the scales looked like they needed a drop of linseed oil to me, but as the knife one of my customers, obiously i didnt, but if it was mine i would have done bud, they have a great full convex on them, and 5 minutes with the said method, and then stropping.
great knife.
hope that helps a little.
take care
lee.

 

[Totumpole]

Thanks Lee. Would you use raw or boiled linseed oil?
I may have to commission a sheath for these little numbersm (im sure they can share one!) - you got any photo examples of what you did?

 

[falcon]

I've one of the carbon blades with olivewood scales....a cracking little knife reminiscent of an opinel blade and just as sharp. I agree it responds well to mousemat sharpening but I'm not too precious about it and have also given it a couple of strokes with a diamond hone to top it up. Like the opinel, it's a very fine edge and needs virtually no work to keep it extremely sharp. A touch of boiled linseed oil will keep the handle in good condition. Great little knife which will do you proud.

 

[luckylee]

Thanks Lee. Would you use raw or boiled linseed oil?
I may have to commission a sheath for these little numbersm (im sure they can share one!) - you got any photo examples of what you did?

yes mate here you go

006 by lucky_lee, on Flickr
i always use raw linseed oil mate.
hope that helps

 

[Dougster]

I use a carbon olive one of these every day. I got it in trade from John Fenna. I love it, with a wizz over a loaded strop at the end of each week I use it to sharpen pencils, as a marking knife on pine and for a myriad of other jobs regularly. Sharp little thing and very NKP friendly - even my pupils refrain from running around screaming 'knife' when I use it - something they did with a SAK.

 

[Nonsuch]

They're great. I gave mine several coats of Tung oil - also tried walnut oil gunstock preparation. Boiled linseed would have done as well.
I've only ever had to strop mine to keep it sharp

 

[Totumpole]

Thanks for all the input guys!

I have adapted a little wet/dry paper kit I put together for use on convex blades (which is basically these and my GB SFA) - basically glued a mousemat to a bit of wood.
I only have boiled linseed oil, but also heard of melting in bee's wax - anyone got any experience of this?

I got the 2 different blades with the intention of using the stainless for fishing/kayaking/seaside duties and the carbon in the woods, as such I am keen to protect the wood on the stainless from water as much as possible. Im assuming treating it with oil whenever it needs it will do this job amicably?

Also, thats a nice little sheath Lee, maybe I will comission you myself one day (not today as I have bashed my pay to within an inch of its knife - one of my SAK cases will do for now!)

 

[falcon]

Boiled linseed oil with a touch of beeswax melted in was recommended to me by a very well known knifemaker...it worked very well on another knife. Just keep it oiled once you've dried it out and you should be fine

 

[Totumpole]

Boiled linseed oil with a touch of beeswax melted in was recommended to me by a very well known knifemaker...it worked very well on another knife. Just keep it oiled once you've dried it out and you should be fine

Think Ive heard that somewhere before - I will give that a bash.

Just realised my stainless Olive knife isnt a" Joker", it an "OK" - im sure its much more than that!!!