High Performance Hand Axe thread

[jimfbte]

There's an insightful thread on the Blade Forum regarding axe head geometry for those who strive for the utmost performace from a tool.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=587605

I'm not an authority on axes, for sure, but It may be of interest to some of you.

Jim FBtE

 

[robin wood]

Interesting link and interesting post. The guy is basically recommending a Snow and Nealley axe over the SFA

I just posted this reply there.

First off this is my first post here having followed a link to this thread from BCUK. I am a full time green woodworker in Derbyshire UK. Hello.

I am always interested in discussion of the niceties of axe design and am a bit of an axe addict myself. Having said that I think that all the discussion that is available on the internet can confuse folk who are out to buy their first axe this post included. In my experience the difference in axe design and setting up are almost insignificant compared learning good technique. Having used a great many axes from the very cheapest DIY store jobs through the Gransfors range, Ceggas, a good collection of Old English axes, hand forged Swedish axes by Svante Djarve etc (not used the S&N though it certainly looks nice) I find that even the cheap Chinese imports are pretty good when sharpened reasonably and used with good technique. I think it is important that folk realise that the difference in efficiency we are talking about in here is the 5% that feels very sweet if you really appreciate it but most beginners could not feel. Good technique accounts for far greater difference in axing efficiency to my mind.

I am not a great fan of the SFA, as you point out at the start it is a bit of a jack of all trades master of none. I find the handle too long for controlled hewing of small objects (tent pegs spoons) but too short and the head too light for real felling or splitting. My personal favourite is the GB carving axe as i do a lot of hewing but if I am felling or splitting I use a proper felling axe (or chainsaw) and a maul.

I was surprised to see from your website that you sell these axes but not the Gransfors, most forums that I am a member of insist that such interests are declared when reviewing products.

 

[BrianA]

As the originator of that post, and the person who did the modifications, I think it necessary to post a different view.

You have to remember that axe preference, head design, all that are highly dependent upon the woods you are using it on. In the right circumstances, there is a time when I would chose the GB over this S&N, and from what I understand about the UK, it would be a lot of there. Flaws that I have pointed out and all.

However, you have to remember a bit of American history:

If you look back into American history, you will find that when the European axes were brought over here, they did not fair well at all against American hardwoods. Therefore, smiths were forced to come up with their own head designs. There were literately an uncountable number of designs. Then, around 1925 or so, the Ax Manufacturers’ Association agreed to set standards for head designs. Designs that worked well in American forests. What I wouldn’t give to get a GB quality “Michigan” headed axe.

The problem is that with the advent of saws, chainsaws, etc, there was no longer a need for American companies to continue to produce high quality axes, in “American” head designs. If one would step up, and do as GB has done, I think it would be a big hit.

I heat my house with wood, and do all my splitting by hand. I have a full size splitting axe for that, so that it not my intention. The full post states that this is a portable tool, meant to do many things when you can not afford a selection of axes.

Everyone’s preference is going to be different. If the GB works for you, the tasks you are doing, and the wood you are using, then great. It will save you a lot of trouble! : ) Unfortunately, I am looking for something different and don’t want to pay $1500 for a truly custom one!

With respect to me selling them; I could carry GB too. It is no big deal. Many people do. However, I am after the most high performance tool there is (for my needs). If it fits someone elses needs to, then that is great. But for me, the GB is not it, therefore I don't carry them.

Unless you go over and view the entire thread, what you are missing is that I showed lots of details on the modification. If all I wanted to do is sell axes I would not show so much detail of the modifications and just pretend "only I know how to do it" I tried to show exactly how and what I did, and hope to encourage others to play with their axes, and it sounds like a few of them will!

Believe me, if I thought I could make a better axe starting out with anything else, I would. I am by no means done either. I have a few vintage collins heads that I need to get to work on for comparison. Of course, coming across those are hit and miss.

I never asked anyone to make up their minds about anything. I love axes, and they are by far my favorite tool. Of course I am going to experiment and play with them. All the material I presented was just for information and a lot of my opinion from LOTS of time spent with axes. If you come to the conclusion that something I said makes sense, then great! If not, I am cool with that too.

Brian

 

[BrianA]

BTW, Robin Wood, I agree with everything you said about very incremental increases in performance.

But, that is the case when you are really INTO something : )

Give a beginning guitar play a rich sounding acoustic, and they are still fumbling with where to put their fingers and not concerned about the tone. Give an experience player one, and it is like heaven. I believe I am at that stage in my axe quest

Thanks again, and I hope you hang out at WS&S often.

Brian

 

[jimfbte]

Forgive me. I did not intend to foment an argument on best brands of axes, etc.

I was pointing out that attention to the geometry of a tool (axe or knife or other) may improve its performance. Perhaps some attention to polishing or smoothing areas of contact can make the task of using an axe easier or safer (less likely to slip or use excessive force) is a worthy goal regardless of the brand of tool.

I was hoping to learn more from the more experienced axe users on BCUK as I don't usually chop wood for heat in Hawaii, being a bit of a tropical clime.

Jim FBtE