Hazel Flat Bow in the Making

stovie

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Oct 12, 2005
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Took 4" off and belly tempered. Finished around 50# @ 28". Simple handle wrap of jute and linen. Just need to make a string for it...

Braced
Hazelflatbowbraced.jpg


Detail of handle
Hazelflatbowhandle.jpg


Drawn
Hazelflatbowcrouching.jpg


Shoots smooth and will perform better with correct string...Now..what next...
 

jojo

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Aug 16, 2006
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That's a really nice bow Stovie. The whole thing just looks right, the handle is neat. Is it hand made string you used for the handle wrap? And that arrow look pretty good too, is that a hand forged point on it?

Well done :approve:
 

stovie

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That's a really nice bow Stovie. The whole thing just looks right, the handle is neat. Is it hand made string you used for the handle wrap? And that arrow look pretty good too, is that a hand forged point on it?

Well done :approve:

Thanks JoJo.
The handle wrap is made from some Jute sent me by Toddy 3 yrs ago. And the linen was supplied from her at the same time.

Sat and twisted a string for the bow last night, using supplies from ...you guessed it...Thanks Mary...I know I've taken my time but beginning to get results from the linen that you supplied me.

The arrow is mine, and the head is forged from an old rasp...Handy having a farrier as a friend...
 

stovie

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This is why we make bows...

through its paces, and an opportunity for me to assess my technique...75ft

and my son shows the world how lacking I am...In my defence they are not balanced arras and two of them are broadheads, which shoot totaly differently...oh well, enough excuses...



 

dwardo

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 30, 2006
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Nice shooting stovie and those arrows are lovely.

Oh what are you using for the arrow shafts by the way ?

Fancy a bow swap at some point ? ;)
 

stovie

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Nice shooting stovie and those arrows are lovely.

Oh what are you using for the arrow shafts by the way ?

Fancy a bow swap at some point ? ;)

Thanks dwardo.

I use standard dowel, 6mm give or take. A thin layer of glue in the base of the nock stops it splitting. One day I'll get around to using hardwood inserts.

I have made arrows from shoots of hazel, ash and red osier (dog wood), and they all work well. But the dowelling is so convenient.

Looking at your Ash bow, I'd say I would be the better off in a bow swap :D
 

dwardo

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 30, 2006
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Thanks dwardo.

I use standard dowel, 6mm give or take. A thin layer of glue in the base of the nock stops it splitting. One day I'll get around to using hardwood inserts.

I have made arrows from shoots of hazel, ash and red osier (dog wood), and they all work well. But the dowelling is so convenient.

Looking at your Ash bow, I'd say I would be the better off in a bow swap :D

The last field points i had i couldnt get a matching dowel in any local timer places so i gave up :eek:
I have made a few arrows from saplings but it doesnt half seem like a lot of work if your just going to practice/loose/break them.
I rekon ill just order the bits from quicks or just buy a cheap set. I saw some very nice ones for around £28 for 6, cheaper than buying the bits :rolleyes:

I would love to swap a bow with you at some point over the next few months if your up for it? I have never even seen another primitive type bow in the flesh besides my own. :( Yet alone shot one.. its been all plastic and wheels.
 

dwardo

Bushcrafter through and through
Aug 30, 2006
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The missus is gonna kill you for showing me that site!
Broadheads for £2.70, very nice...
 
A

andyBruce

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Hi, I'm very new to bow making, what are the best woods to use? I have small are of woodland with a fair amount of Birch, some sweet Chestnut and a few assorted others. Would Birch work as a bow stave?

Thanks,
Andy
 

stovie

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Hi, I'm very new to bow making, what are the best woods to use? ..... Would Birch work as a bow stave?

Thanks,
Andy

Hi Andy
Not used Birch myself, and am aware of its limited suitability...but that said, the best way to find out is make a bow. With the less popular bow woods (hazel included) if you keep it long (70") and as wide as practical (3" at the fades narrowing down "pyramid style" to 1/2" at the nocks) you'd be surprised what you get away with.

If you've got hazel in your coppice, give it a go. Ideally ash and elm are the better white woods in the uk. If all else fails, get down your local timber merchant and pick out a length of oak 2"x2" and follow one of the many articles on board bow construction. This was an oak board at one stage, and still shoots well today 5yrs later
Rovinwithno2.jpg


Dont forget to check out the paleoplanet web forum...fantastic resource for bowmaking...
 

Willderness

Tenderfoot
Aug 16, 2009
54
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UK / UAE
Great thread, I'm inspired to get back into it.

A few years ago I did a lot of research into the subject and it culminated in a pine flatbow (the only wood I had available). Bow tillered, but when I came to string it for the first time... CRACK!

I didn't get a bow out of it but I got a lot of knowledge. I feel that bowyering is one of the fundamental bushcraft skills - if you're going to be self sufficient you have to catch food.

You mentioned belly tempering, can you explain?

Cheers,
Will
 
A

andyBruce

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Thats great, thanks Stovie!

You guys are a fountain of knowledge, this forum and it's members are inspiring!

I plan on giving it a go, I will keep you posted!

Thanks again,
Andy
 

stovie

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Oct 12, 2005
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Great thread, I'm inspired to get back into it......

.....You mentioned belly tempering, can you explain?

Cheers,
Will

Belly tempering is heat (a light scorching) applied to the belly only, of the bow. It increases compressive strength and helps to minimise set. You can also reflex the limbs at the same time, which not only offsets set, but increases cast.

But be warned, you can go too far with the heat, and end up with a brittle pile of firewood...All woods have their limit.
 

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