Given a billhook

[Biddlesby]

I have been given this billhook:

Not sure what it is: it says "Elwell 2976/10":

Not sure how to re-handle it: with the bolster, and all. Not sure what the tang is like:

Not sure how to sharpen it: will it be best to put some sort of grind on it with an angle grinder, intermittantly?

Not sure how to clean it up: Intending to use some sort of wire wool attatchment for a drill to clean it up. Unless you people can propose a better way!

Cheers in advance!

 

[chrisanson]

lucky bugger!

 

[leon-b]

you could use wet and dry to clean it up
leon

 

[Ed]

Not sure how to sharpen it: will it be best to put some sort of grind on it with an angle grinder, intermittantly?

Be very careful if you do, as if the blade gets too hot it will destroy the temper of the metal.... you are better off using a file if you need to re profile it, then use a scythe stone (a sort of long round oil stone) to sharpen it.

They are great tools.... My hook was made in the 1800's (yep over 100 years old) and it is still doing the jobit was designed to do.


Ed

 

[Biddlesby]

you could use wet and dry to clean it up
leon

I'm not quite that dedicated!

Was passing through Rutland: saw some fantastic hedge laying, and thought I should honour this great tool by cleaning it up. But really I just want a pretty, shiny tool, and am looking for things to put new handles on following my recent first success .

 

[Ed]

Not sure how to re-handle it: with the bolster, and all. Not sure what the tang is like:

It should be a stick tang ... all the way through with a washer on the end which is peened over to hold the whole thing in place. You can buy a new billhook handle for a couple of quid (or make your own) and it should come with a bolster / washer for the end. If you buy one, then it will already have a hole all the way through. Insert you hook, stick the bolster on the end and hit the end of the tang with a hammer to peen it over to tighten it up and keep everything in place.

Hopethis helps.


Ed

 

[Ed]

But really I just want a pretty, shiny tool

I'll take that hook off your hands then mate they are not meant to be pretty and shiny.... they are to be used.


Ed

 

[Biddlesby]

Should I glue it for good measure? If the tang is already 'peened'...must I cut the end off or hammer it back into line beforehand?

 

[Ed]

If the tang is already 'peened'...must I cut the end off or hammer it back into line beforehand

Depends on how it has been done. On mine, I hacked the wooden handle off, filed the end of the tang as it was sort of splattered rather than folded over,and it fitted perfectly..... if the end of the tang has actually been folded over in one direction, you may need to.... though check the length of the tang and see if it will poke out of the end of the handle..... as for glue....if it is done well, its not needed


Ed

 

[Toddy]

Lucky man
These are hard working tools; try scrubbing it with a brillo pad (I can hear the screams now , but it works, or one of those green kithcen scrubbers) and then give it a good soak in WD40. It's amazing how it'll come up.

atb,
Toddy

 

[leon-1]

Harry, get some cloth backed sandpaper, something along the lines of 40 grit on a sanding block, that will strip off the majority of the dirt and rust in no time.

Traditionally you would probably of found that they used whetstones to sharpen them. They are not so easy to come across nowadays.

 

[Dave Budd]

Now this is how I would do it, but there are many ways to skin a cat.

1)Use an angle grinder with a wire brush on it to remove the rust, this leaves the protective patina in place whilst removing the active corrosion.
2) If handle has worm holes, treat them as if they are live, then fill with superglue (this consolidates any slight weakness as well as keeping water out)
3) If the handle is loose then I would fill it with epoxy (warm teh glue a little so it thins and will flow into the void).
4) replace handle if needed, but that looks ok on yours
5) regrind teh edge with and angle grinder yes, but I've had practice and I go VERY carefully: only move teh grinder backwards towards you,never forwards as it gives better control, also only use light pressure. Touch the balde with you bare finger after you have gone over each bit with the grinder, if it gets hot to the touch then cool it off, the temperature difference bewteen 'ouch' and 'oh bugger' is about 150 degrees C.
6) when the edge bevel is regound I then use wet and dry paper (80 or 120grit) wrapped around a half round stick, the flat side on the flat of the edge and the rounded on the curved
7) work through the grits of wet and dry until I get where I want it, normally 280 or if pushing the boat out the 500grit. Then strop it on leather (more normally my jeans) to remove the burr.
8) oil over the blade, i use some grotty old boiled linseed that's been around for years.
9) fit a protective guard to edge (a piece of plastic tube and elastic bands is good)
10 soak handle in your prefered wood oil, I use tung.

That's how I do it, I guess I refurb maybe a doxen hooks of various types each year for people and I've rarely cocked the grinding up, but checking for heat is a must

 

[fred gordon]

I have one very similar to this. If anyone would like a swap I'd be happy to receive a PM