Get Pricking!

[Klenchblaize]

A deerstalker pal asked me to make him a replacement sheaf for a knife he was given way back in the 70's. The one it came with no longer holds it securely and he's fearful it will be lost when belly stalking through the grass. The new one will have a 'silent' flap-over interference fit retainer and not press stud closing.

I thought you might like to share my attempt at making one in a kind of brief "work in progress" way. I'm sure I'm doing it all wrong but then I never have taken to being told what and how do stuff! Note please that I use "pricking" irons for stitch spacing which I find to give the most pleasing finsish although the close spacing, compared to that found with wheels, makes for more work.

If you reckon you know the make of this knife do let me know please. Apparently it wasn't a cheap knife even though it frankly looks a little too poncy to my eye. It does though take and hold a wonderful edge and has removed hundreds of deer heads which is work that will blunt most baldes in short order. If you look closely at the original sheaf there is something embossed on it that looks like a bear's paw or claws.

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Picture of completed piece to follow.

Cheers

 

[Hoodoo]

That's looking real good!

 

[beowolf762]

Hi Klenchblaize,
The knife appears to be a Hackman knife,Stainless steel blade. The famous Finnish desgner Tapio Wirkkala Designed the knife.Heres a link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/Hackman-Finland...615754743QQcategoryZ43326QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
And heres something about Tapio Wirkkala:
http://scandinaviandesign.com/tapioWirkkala/

 

[beowolf762]

And I forgot to say your sheath looks Mighty Good!!

 

[Klenchblaize]

Thanks for those links. It will be interesting to see how much that one goes for on -e-bay.

Cheers

 

[beowolf762]

Glad you liked the links. I bet there will be heavy sniping when the auction nears closing. I have seen those knives go for $300.00

 

[ggfh666]

It indeed looks like one of those collector items. If it is better get another knife to use.

 

[Klenchblaize]

Glad you liked the links. I bet there will be heavy sniping when the auction nears closing. I have seen those knives go for $300.00

"$300.00"
Wish now I hadn't sent this page as a link to the owner!

Cheers

 

[beowolf762]

$102.50 and rising
The knife is just a ordinary factory knife, but the unusual design and the Wirkkala name have made it a collectors item.

 

[ggfh666]

$102.50 and rising
The knife is just a ordinary factory knife, but the unusual design and the Wirkkala name have made it a collectors item.

So have some Beatle records

 

[beowolf762]

So have some Beatle records

Quite true; an item is worth whatever the market will bear

 

[beowolf762]

Hi Klenchblaize,
ENUFF knife talk. I would like to know how you did the pinking on your sheath,is that a thin layer of leather? It matches perfect. :You_Rock_

 

[Klenchblaize]

Hi Klenchblaize,
ENUFF knife talk. I would like to know how you did the pinking on your sheath,is that a thin layer of leather? It matches perfect. :You_Rock_

I think you are referring to the ***** marks that will ensure even spacing when stitching the two halves together. This is achieved with what are known as "pricking irons" (see picture bottom left) and not the more commonly used spacing wheel. Note the angle the awl will (or at least should) follow when they a brought together for stitching through the welt. This method will, when using the right thread diameter to awl/pricking iron size, ensure the stiches 'sit-up' in pleasing way - the sign of fine handsewen leatherwork. The use of "wheels" is pretty much frowned upon by master leatherworkers, of which I am most certainly not, but like most things when the right person is behind the tools you can produce great work with either method and much is, I guess, subjective.

Cheers
Ps: Pricking irons should always be ordered in MATCHING pairs as they can be had in "Harness" (///////////) & "Portmanteau" (\\\\\\\\\\\\) - read left & right facing. Trying to match a harness pricking iron's spacing and degree of pitch at some later date is a bad move.

 

[beowolf762]

Hi KB,
Thanks for the reply. In photo 2 the shadow makes your pricking look like a thin liner that was folded over and cut with what we call in the U.S. "pinking shears". Those shears are used in the garment industry to make the angled cuts similar to your pricking.
I will have to find a U.S. supplier for the pricking irons.
I also saw your pouches in the gallery, AWSOME. :You_Rock_

 

[Klenchblaize]

I also saw your pouches in the gallery, AWSOME. :You_Rock_

Not my pouches as I only have a couple of knives posted there. I will though put up one or two pics of other stuff I've done that may be of interest.


Cheers

 

[g4ghb]

love the work Klench!


Re the irons - I assume there is a limit to the curve you can punch due to the length!? - can you get smaller ones? Also I assume where you say but them as a pair that is just to get the 2 hands, I assume you just use one at a time and tap with a 'hammer' to make the impressions or do they 'cut' the complete hole?

Also (sorry for the 10 questions) is the thread 'flat' or is it just a trick of the light?

keep up the great work! - more please!

 

[Klenchblaize]

love the work Klench!


Re the irons - I assume there is a limit to the curve you can punch due to the length!? - can you get smaller ones? Also I assume where you say but them as a pair that is just to get the 2 hands, I assume you just use one at a time and tap with a 'hammer' to make the impressions or do they 'cut' the complete hole?

Also (sorry for the 10 questions) is the thread 'flat' or is it just a trick of the light?

keep up the great work! - more please!

Hi

You could have pricking irons made as long or as short (2 prongs) as you like, but normally they are sized according to the spacing of teeth being used . The ones in the pic are a "number 8'" and are half the normal width of standard sized iron as you'll see offered by the likes of Abbey. The ones I use suit the type of small work I do, although the pic below of a rifle sling is the exception, as such was handsewen throughout it's entire length and took quite a few hours. Trust me on that one!

As for going around tight curves or even circles therein lies the the skill of the workman! Key though is to practice on off-cuts and learn to tilt the iron so that you are only using the trailing 2 or 3 teeth. Take a compass and scripe ever decreasing circles then ***** around each until you have it mastered.

You do not want to cut/punch right through the leather but just enough to guide the awl. A positive tap with a mallet whilst placed on a SOFT SURFACE is all that is required.

You really need to have this kind of thing demonstrated and if you can still find a college that offers an evening course in handsewen leather work it is well worth the fee. I did mine at Cordwainers in London but this famous school has long ceased offering this and indeed shoe making classes that was once their trademark. Seems that someone decided they need only produce designers of footwear and not the craftsman who could make/construct them!!

I think the thread looks "flat" because of the diameter of thread being used. It is smaller than that noramlly used in most sheaf and harness work.

The two boxes you see are the first items I ever made in leather whilst at Cordwainers. One was given 10X10 and the other 9.5X10. The latter was marked down due to a tiny slip with the hot creasing iron that once made cannot be removed! Stitching through a crown to secure to the cylindrical body, as in the circular lid, is most satisfying but tricky! Photographs are not too good I'm afraid.

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Cheers

 

[addyb]

This is a little off topic, but why do I get the feeling that Europeans prefer stainless steel, like 12c27 Sandvik in Frosts, or like in that boot knife? I was always taught that stainless steel is "no good because it won't hold on edge" and that "carbon is the only way to go." But I've always found SAK's to hold a good edge, and when I first started playing around with my Clipper, the steel absolutely blew me away. That said, a lot of older hunter type people I know would never go near stainless and prefer to carry blackened old carbon blades. I've had carbon blades in the past, when I've compared them to modern stainless, I haven't really noticed much of a difference. Is it because modern metallurgy is able to create stainless that is far superior than what was availble twenty years ago, or is it all just hype? I'm not trying to spark a debate about the pros and cons of different steel, I'm just wondering how much steel technology has changed in today's day and age.

Adam

 

[beowolf762]

Hi addyb,
Stainless steels have improved over the last 40 years, and sharpening systems have improved also. 40 years ago stones were the only sharpening system. steels like 440a and c154 were hardened very hard to hold an edge, when the edge became dull stones were useless in sharpening.
Now we have better stainless steels and diamond hones and ceramic rods. life is good Now I say make your choice and pay your money for what you like.I have a Helle Harding blade that I am making a handle for and just using 400 git and 600 grit sandpaper,and a strop with green rouge makes the edge "scary sharp"

 

[beowolf762]

Not my pouches as I only have a couple of knives posted there. I will though put up one or two pics of other stuff I've done that may be of interest.


Cheers

OOPS Sorry I guess I gave you credit for seagulls pouches .Appologies to both of you.:11doh: