From a shrunken jumper :)

[tommy the cat]

I agree too great thread!
I take it any 100% wool then can be 'felted'? Just a boil wash in the machine?
I've got a wool blanket I got cheap that is a bit yellow for me so boot liners would be great.
D

 

[treadlightly]

Thank you very much. Its inspired me to have a go at sewing and I'm sure I've got a shrunken jumper somewhere??

 

[Toddy]

Thank you kindly
I'm glad the thread looks useful to folks

I think I'll do some samples showing different stitches. Might be the easiest way to show things such as how to lay the seam flat and which stitch to use.

Any wool, even the Pure New Wool which has had those little interlockable scales chemically removed, will shrink and felt.
They will not all shrink and felt to the same degree however.
That's when it becomes a bit hit or miss for sizing.

Nowadays blankets are generally, "Wool and other fibres". The blanket will felt, but no idea how tightly.
Sometimes that's a good thing, I felted one and it came out like a slab of wool and yet others make the best bushshirts

Merino is considered the best felting medium, but Shetland is good too, but plain, straightforward, good quality mainstream English 56's is effective as well.

You can do a trial by cutting a sample piece and measuring it carefully. Then hot wash it and measure it again. That will give a pretty fair guideline for how much shrinkage to allow for in something like mitts, slippers, etc., and if you mark the sample (maybe cut a small slit in one side) that will give an indication of whether it will shrink more one direction than the other.

cheers,
Toddy

 

[Lasse]

Great thread Toddy!

So, what's the best way to "prepare" a wool shirt in good condition for recycling like this? Want to try this out on some old clothes!

 

[Toddy]

Machine wash it in hot soapy water.
It's that simple. If it's going to shrink, that'll do it

I have another jumper that has been badly stained with curry It's a nice pale blue one, but I can't shift the stains, so I'll do some pieces with it and take photos to show the stitching, once I've put it through the machine. In this weather I'm using the tumble drier so that ought to shrink it even more tightly.

cheers,
M

 

[Toddy]

I have had a pm from someone who'd just read this old thread. He asked if I would answer Indoorout's question....so here it is
I apologise for the dayglo photos, there are better ones on the second thread (I'll find a link)

Hi Toddy

This looks a great project! Just one thing though, could you explain the different types of stitch you used? I generally only sew leather and I don't think saddle stitch will work on these

There are four main stitches used in this kind of hand sewing.
I have sketched each of them and given a short explanation.

The first is running stitch;

Very straightforward, try to keep your stitches small and neat unless you intend to use them to gather up a width of fabric and then the stitch size makes the pleat size and you might make them longer.

Running stitch is usually done by working three or four stitches at once on the needle, but it can be done one stitch at a time (stab stitch). It isn't a fixed stitch, it will pull, but if you begin each needleful of stitches with a backstitch, the running stitch won't pull and it'll be a lot more useful.


The second is back stitch;

This is one of the most useful stitches to learn. It is secure, firm and very sound. It is used for seams where there will be any stress......like the seat of your trousers

The third is blanket, or buttonhole, stitch;

This stitch is the one that is used to edge the folded over hems of blankets, and stitched closely it edges buttonholes. However, it will stop a raw edge from fraying too. It's not particularly stretchy though, so it's not always suitable for hems, cuff and necklines. It looks best when worked with a consistant tension, and it needs to be securely finished off otherwise it has a tendency to unravel. Once a woollen edge has partially felted around it though, it'll not budge

The fourth stitch is herringbone stitch;

This one is simply the most useful hemming stitch of all. It's very flexible, can easily be sewn around a curved edge, will stop an edge unravelling, will secure a folded over seam without adding bulk, can be very lightly done so that no stitching shows on the outside of the garment, and it's ideal for wool