Forging a Farriers knife

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Only thing I would do would be leave the forge finish on the blade and just grind the bevels but I’m a big brute de forge fan. I think it would look pretty good with the rasp marks in it still.
Here’s one I left as a forged finish.
ISIMG-884463.jpeg
 
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Since you chaps since you seem to know about making cutting tools I have a question. I recently bought a Faicoubill bill hook for hedge laying. I can get a reasonably sharp edge on this but it bounces out of the cut. In really simple terms, what sort of profile am I looking for. And does it need to be sharper than an axe? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
In my opinion, yes, it needs to be as sharp as you can get it. Bill hooks are cutting slicing tools and need to have quite a narrow angle to the edge compared to an axe. IIRC the Faicoubill has a double edge - straight for doing the rough chopping, and curved for snedding etc. so you could choose different profiles depending on the job.

I'll come clean however, I only use a bill hook for snedding; I don't do hedge laying.
 
Since you chaps since you seem to know about making cutting tools I have a question. I recently bought a Faicoubill bill hook for hedge laying. I can get a reasonably sharp edge on this but it bounces out of the cut. In really simple terms, what sort of profile am I looking for. And does it need to be sharper than an axe? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The classic saying of the old boys who used billhooks all the time was 'Keep them shoulders back', meaning the the shoulders of the bevel, not the user.

To use one properly, the greater part of the cutting side needs to be at far more acute an angle than many realise; obviously not a razor-fine cutting edge though.

I have no idea why I can't just copy and paste images here, but the 'convex' edge in the astonishingly long link below is what you are aiming for. Unless... you do what some do and have a bevel only on one side, like a side axe - but, again, keep the shoulder back.

Link to Image
 
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