File or Stone (Poll attached)

[Whittler Kev]

SWMBO has got me a GB SFA for crimbo.
May have been asked before but,
Which is the best to keep it sharp with
1) AXE FILE
2) AXE STONE
Don't forget to vote

 

[SimonM]

Now I'm no expert, but I'd say the file for touching up dings and the stone for routine sharpening...

Simon

 

[Warrigal]

File to profile,
Stone to touch up,
but I strop.
And I do take the effort when I'm doing the major re-finish to 240, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200 wet and dry then polish the cutting edge ( back the best part of 2inches from the edge) with metal polishing paste and a cork sanding block (apply the polish straight on the block)
But it has been suggested may have a OCD issue with sharpening.
I do my bush sharpening with a Fallkie DC4
Carl

 

[Rumcajs]

As a kid, when I spent better part of my summer time chopping wood for winter I only used file. There were some stones but they were used to sharpen scythes. My uncle would probably kill me if I used them on the axe.
Right now I would use both file, for rough work, and stone to finish it off.

 

[ickyan]

I use a home-made stone (found a flat pebel and rubbed it on a concrete slab to smooth it off)

for ruff work I use a small diamond stone

 

[Graham_S]

Both.
It's a non-question.
Sharpening anything is the act of abrading the face to remove material until it's sharp
the file and the stone both do the same thing, only at different rates, as do all sharpening systems.
The file will be far more aggressive than the stone, and will not give as good results.

 

[Amon81]

When I got one I got there stone when I got on of there hatchets and its great!

Its a combi stone and put a really nice edge on it. It's also great for sharpening larger blades too, it brings up my RAT-II shaving sharp. Its also really easy to clean off the build up you get on them too, just a drop of water and wipe with a finger then let it dry, good as new. It also comes in rubber so only take the cover off the hard of smooth side you want so you get some protection from cutting yourself too.

I also strop my axe's after sharpening.

 

[Siberianfury]

I do my bush sharpening with a Fallkie DC4
Carl

same here, i find its all i need to get a razor edge on any tool.

 

[Whittler Kev]

Would a "normal" combination oil stone or a combi waterstone do then?

 

[Mesquite]

Would a "normal" combination oil stone or a combi waterstone do then?

Simple answer to that is yes

 

[Graham_S]

Pretty much anything abrasive will sharpen a blade.
For an axe, I'd go with wet 'n dry and a mouse mat personally, stropped on a loaded belt.
Just about as cheap a sharpening system as you'll get, and with results to match even the most expensive.

 

[British Red]

Both.
It's a non-question.
.

Yep. Actually all three - mill double cut for serious damage. Second cut or diamond file for dinks and stone or wet n dry for a touch up. All three may be needed, some more frequently than others

Red

 

[alecf]

Whats the difference between an axe file and a normal file? Can you use a normal file to sharpen your axe?

 

[Graham_S]

An axe file costs more.
Any decent tool shop will sell you good quality metalworking files.
they come in different grades depending on how much metal they remove in one stroke
Generally, Dead Smooth, Smooth, 2nd cut, *******, coarse, rough.
you also get mill cut (parallel teeth), and double cut (perpendicular teeth).

And yes, you can use a normal metalworking file to sharpen an axe.

Sharpening is just the act of filing a bit of metal until it's pointy.
An awful lot is talked about sharpening, there are many misconceptions about what equipment you need.

 

[British Red]

Whilst a file is a file, I do find a shorter file very handy. A monster 10" job is harder to control. You only need a short job. A nice wide 4" mill cut, a similar second cut and a small pack of 6" diamond pads on plastic does the job nicely. A lick on wet and dry or a strop if you are bothered at the end.

Red

 

[The Cumbrian]

When I sharpen the axe that I use all winter to chop and split firewood, all I ever use is a normal smooth file. This brings it up to an edge that can shave my leather work gloves into thin strips of suede.
I sharpen my outdoor axes with a stone to get them shaving sharp. I was very impressed with the DC4 though: It's all I brought over to Sweden with me, and it easily sorted out a ding in my wildlife hatchet.

Cheers, Michael.

 

[Whittler Kev]

When I sharpen the axe that I use all winter to chop and split firewood, all I ever use is a normal smooth file. This brings it up to an edge that can shave my leather work gloves into thin strips of suede.
I sharpen my outdoor axes with a stone to get them shaving sharp. I was very impressed with the DC4 though: It's all I brought over to Sweden with me, and it easily sorted out a ding in my wildlife hatchet.

Cheers, Michael.

I normally use my DC3 for sharpening. Thanks for confirming it will work

 

[Peter_t]

just a bit of a heads up,
if you want good smooth mill files do a search for chainsaw files. not the round files for sharpening the cutters but the flat files used to adjust the depth gages of the chain. they are lightweight 6 inch files, perfect for long trips and only cost £2

pete

 

[Warrigal]

You gotta love automatic censorship
Graham S was trying to give a list of the names of the types of teeth on files the one blanked out is the common word for a child of unmarried parents.
LOL
Showing off I have used the ( unglazed) bottom of a coffee cup to sharpen. Anything I mean anything that is abrasive or harder than the material your trying to remove. Can be used to sharpen.
Carl

 

[Graham_S]

My Gran used to sharpen her kitchen knives on the base of her mixing bowl.