It's worth having a read of Alan Arnette's blog (
http://www.alanarnette.com/) if anyone is interested in what's going on at Everest. Alan is an accomplished mountaineer and well respected in the community - his blog has become a bit of a go to guide for Everest and I enjoy following it during the climbing season. He has documented the deaths on Everest and the wider Himalaya mountains this season and the reasons behind those deaths. I think the weather has been a big factor in this years deaths as it has forced the climbers to move up the mountain inside two or three relatively short weather windows. Alan's blog does also highlight inexperience as another critical factor and this is a crying shame.
Some of the expedition companies are very strict in who they take to Everest and will, quite rightly (in my opinion), stipulate that you should at least have proven you can climb at altitude and be competent when using crampons and jumar ascending devices. However, it would seem that other companies and guides are much less stringent and these are the groups that suffer with the deaths.
I don't think you'll ever stop people wanting to conquer our highest peaks, but I do wonder if the traffic and associated risk can be managed more effectively by being more stringent with the climbers (having appropriate experience) and limiting the numbers. Ben Fogle (summited last year) made an interesting point in a recent press article (one of the broadsheets) about limiting the numbers of climbers by adopting a ballot system (much like the London marathon), that could work, the only thing stopping it is the Nepalese Government.
As for waste, I wonder if some people's perceptions may be exaggerated or mistaken. Alan's blog covers this too and I think the China Tibet Mountaineering Association should be applauded to some extent as they are reportedly managing this more effectively. I understand that this more stringent and perhaps 'ethical' approach to waste management is one of the reasons why some expedition companies use the Chinese route rather than the more crowded Nepalese side. Since 2015, each and every climber on the Chinese side (going up the North East ridge) must return with a minimum of 8.5kg of rubbish (I believe that human waste is also accounted for here!). Fines are imposed on the climbers for every kilo that they fall short of this target. Nepal also adopt similar rules but I perceive that these are not enforced as effectively.
On a more positive note - check out Nirmal Phurja who took the photo on page 1. He's an ex British special forces and gurkha officer trying to climb all 14 8000m peaks within a 7 month period (the current record is several yrs!!). He started in April and has already climbed six including some of the more challenging peaks while also undertaking two rescues of stricken climbers who were left to die above 8000m and spoken very critically of the companies that failed to manage the risk/support the climbers. In doing so he is raising funds for British military and Nepali charities. For the next phase he's taking on the 8000m peaks in the Karokoram range (K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrums, Nanga Pharbat) - that will be a huge challenge as K2 is an altogether different beast.
walk the south west coast path and you have climbed Everest 4 times in the combined elevations
