Drilling a hole in a Mora Tang.

[crosslandkelly]

I want to rehandle my Mora, I've cut the handle off, so I now have a template for the new one. But I'd like to put a mosaic pin in it for a bit of added strength and looks. Do I need any special drill bits to drill through the tempered tang? Any advice appreciated.

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[SoldierPalmer]

Just a titanium tipped drill bit will do.

 

[fishfish]

i use masonry bit with a bit of oil and slow speed works a treat.

 

[crosslandkelly]

That's great, thanks guys.

 

[Mesquite]

Just remember to go slow and use plenty of cooling agent on the drill

 

[crosslandkelly]

Cheers Steve.

 

[Macaroon]

You could also spot anneal the bit you want to drill; somebody with a good torch just brings that bit up to colour, then leave it to cool.......You can then drill it normally.

 

[crosslandkelly]

Thanks Mac, I'll try that if all else fails

 

[mick91]

Moras aren't that hard in fairness. I would say step up slowly in sizes, if you're trying to sink a 1/4 drill bit through straight away you'll struggle. When I'm making I tend to bite the bullet and buy decent bits but cheap ones will manage

 

[Hibrion]

Looks to be anealled for the last inch and a half or so. I'm no expert, but a good bit and some oil should work on that section. Probably best to use a pillar drill too to get it nice and straight.

 

[crosslandkelly]

Looks to be anealled for the last inch and a half or so. I'm no expert, but a good bit and some oil should work on that section. Probably best to use a pillar drill too to get it nice and straight.

Thank you. I have a pillar drill.

 

[Stew]

If it's a laminated blade you should have no issue with the outer sides. The centre may cause issues. My advice would be to mix it up (assuming you don't have solid carbide bits) and drill with a normal metal drill bit until you have issues then switch to a masonry bit....for a bit.... then back to the metal bit. If you're not careful you can melt off the end of the masonry bit but I treat them as disposable. You may also find that pecking at the steel helps as opposed to just hanging off the handle and putting all your weight on it.

Another trick you can try is a square pointed centre punch at the point where you're struggling. It will reshape the hole and give the bit a different shape to bite into.

 

[wheelnut]

Just a titanium tipped drill bit will do.

Do you mean tungsten ?

 

[HillBill]

That last bit is just where it wasn't ground after HT. The colour you see is the temper colours. It'll be as hard as the rest.

Looks to be anealled for the last inch and a half or so.

 

[HillBill]

I'd just buy a carbide bit Colin. Only a few quid. You can use it on other stuff then. I've tried drilling hardened steel with all sorts, all hard work other than carbide,

Annealing the end of the tang would be the other option if you have something to apply the heat with (850º) Just have the blade in a glass of water and just anneal the bit you need.

http://www.diamond-ace.co.uk/Drill-Bits/carbide-drill-bits

 

[SoldierPalmer]

Do you mean tungsten ?

Nope I've always used titanium when working with steel.

 

[HillBill]

They don't work with hardened steel though. Fine for non hardened stuff.

Nope I've always used titanium when working with steel.

 

[SoldierPalmer]

They don't work with hardened steel though. Fine for non hardened stuff.

Every day is a school day

 

[crosslandkelly]

Thanks guys for all your great advice. I had to go to Tool Station for a couple of band saw blades, so I picked up a pack of 2 cobalt bits for under £3 and a couple of tungsten carbide masonry bits. The cobalt bit was very slow to bite on the tang, but once it got going seemed to be okay. I now have a nice neat hole for my mosaic pin. Just waiting for a piece Yew now.

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