DIY help to Dutch hooped bivi

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Snowdon bushwhacker

Full Member
Jun 6, 2016
9
0
Blaenau Ffestiniog
Hi all

I'm thinking of converting my Dutch bivi.I want to put a hoop at the bottom of the bivi like the top.
Can anyone tell me if this is possible.I was thinking of geting another set of pols and sawing some hoops for the polls to go throu to lift it all up.
As anybody done this to theirs.
If anybody as got som pics of this can you please put some on this post it wold be very appreciated

Thanking you all
Chris
Snowdon Bushwhacker
 

Snowdon bushwhacker

Full Member
Jun 6, 2016
9
0
Blaenau Ffestiniog
Thanks jaeger that is the sort of thing I'm looking to do
Just two hoops at the bottom 1 in the middle then a ridge line to the top hoop
My way was a lot more difficult and probably not as good you are a life saver
I will be using a small tarp as well and camo netting
So now I will have to sort out how to stitch it onto the bivi and how to sort out how to water proof the stitching

Thanks again for your post jaeger

Chris
Snowdon Bushwhacker
 

SCOMAN

Life Member
Dec 31, 2005
2,592
453
54
Perthshire
I modded a british bivvy to have a hoop moderately successfully. In order to create the hoop I sewed in a length of tubular climbing tape to act as the 'runner' for a fibre glass pole. I then ran seam sealing tape on the inside to maintain the waterproofing.
 

Snowdon bushwhacker

Full Member
Jun 6, 2016
9
0
Blaenau Ffestiniog
Ok checked out sealer on Amazon,tape and tube lube type, and I've looked on YouTube how to
That won't be a problem.Now then just the stitching to go.
Thank you scoman I'm geting their now
I gave £120 for it never used so if I don't get this right the wife will get the gun squad on me
But it was a lot of money
Thanking you for that direction

Chris
Snowdon Bushwhacker
 

Jaeger

Full Member
Dec 3, 2014
670
24
United Kingdom
Aye Up again Snowdon bushwacker,

Before you attempt any sewing - get several of those plastic, slide-to-grip eyelets (can't remember the exact name hopefully someone on here will - gripits?) a couple of sections of small diameter shock corded pole (pre curved if possible), attach the gripits to the bivvy where you need them and then thread the poles through the gripit eyelets (or make paracord extensions).
Tension the hoop with a single bungee mid section and anchor the hooks with a couple of pegs.
I find that a ridge line running from the foot hoop to the head hoops(s) with a further gripit in the centre (length) of the bag helps to keep the material up off me/my doss bag.

This method will be way easier than sewing and not compromise the integrity of the bag if you take care with the gripit things. Put some soft material or tape at the points where you work out that they need to attach so as not to damage the bivvy material as some types of gripits can be a bit fierce.

If you do go down the sewing route a basher (tarp) pitched not too high over the bivvy should fend off H20 so stitching sealing is less of an issue. It will need to be a decent sized basher though if you want head to foot cover - the mil versions tend to be too short.:)
 

Jaeger

Full Member
Dec 3, 2014
670
24
United Kingdom
Aye Up Philster, Snowdon bushwhacker

I've never had that happen either on Gore or any of the bashers where I have used them as additional ridge-line hangers even in reasonably high winds –

So in response to your post I’ve just tested mine out on a piece of Goretex - almost to the point of destruction!

I have two different sources (manufacturer?) of the grips I use. One (the green) seems to be a slightly softer plastic than the black. It is possible that this means that the tiny nodules on the inside of the grip don’t, if you get my drift, maybe the grip flexes under stress too.

In the scientific test shown in the images I’ve attached one of each grip type to either side of a piece of Goretex and attached an increasing load.

Eventually, the green (softer plastic) grip, did slide off the material at 12kgs (25lbs) – the black grip remained.

Suspecting that the issue is that the material ‘pinch’ rolls against itself internally and so the grip slides off completely I inserted a small piece of paracordage a couple of cms wider than the jaws of the grip into the crease of the pinch (see diagram). I chose cordage as it is less likely to damage the Gore material but in the field any small diameter material could work – a bit of green twig for instance.

Result – both grips held at 24kgs.
The black grip failed at 25kgs (no cordage!).
Cordage in both grips – 25kgs plus my upper body weight – test halted when the ceiling joist started to complain!

Might be worth a re-try?

Gripit 1..jpg Gripit Test.jpg
 

Philster

Settler
Jun 8, 2014
681
40
Poole, Dorset
Nice one, very scientific!! :)
I'll give it another go - I've got black clips and they are made of very tough inflexible material, reckon this will make all the difference.
Cheers
Phil
 

Snowdon bushwhacker

Full Member
Jun 6, 2016
9
0
Blaenau Ffestiniog
Hi all sorry I've not replied the last two days but I've been working shifts.
One more night then of for 4days
Thank you Jaeger for all your help,now then this looks a good idear as well 'my brain is going again' this will do no damage
to the bivi I think they are the ones they youse on tarps as well aren't they,this is all starting to look good and not as complicated.ok then would you still youse the hoop at the bottom of the bivi Just the same ???
Thanking you again for all your time and patients jaeger

Chris
Snowdon Bushwhacker
 

Jaeger

Full Member
Dec 3, 2014
670
24
United Kingdom
Aye Up Snowdon Bushwhacker,

1. You are welcome for the info. Here is some more. :)

2. Bivvy bags (mil 'breathable' versions) are intended not only to keep you dry and reasonably condensation free but also to not create the counter-tactical straight edges/lines that occur if you don't set a basher (tarp) up correctly - that is why mil bivvies usually either have no hoops or some (usually 1 or 2) at the head end. This then creates only a diagonal line from head to foot - less eye catching = more tactical.

3. That method however causes the bag to 'drape' over the body/sleeping bag potentially creating heat escape through conduction. (I initially found that especially in heavy downpours and on several occasions after hard rain and then a frost!). A full length basher set up over the bivvy does lessen those issues and provide some sheltered 'sit-up' room (depending on how you set it up).

4. Furthermore, if you occupy the bivvy in boots or are particularly restless, I found that I sometimes tended to get tangled in the material and roll the bag off the ground insulation mat. (On that subject I have long turned to using a ground sheet beneath the bivvy and a ground insulation mat inside it).
Introducing a hoop at the foot-end and a ridge-line with a central loop raises the bag slightly, keeps feet/boots clear and helps keep the bag up off you/your sleeping bag and doesn't interfere too much with the (tactical) diagonal line.

5. In the case of an obs bivvy it is likely that you are going to add external cam which you don't want moving about each time that you do inside the bag, so the foot-en hoop and the ridge-line help to minimise that.

6. The dutch single hooped bivvy was originally intended simply as a low profile, rapidly set up sleeping shelter - (limited use for obs) but I found that when using it as a bush-craft sleeping shelter, the inability to see out from the head end was (psychologically) uncomfortable so my mods on it as an obs shelter also helped for bush-craft use.
 

Snowdon bushwhacker

Full Member
Jun 6, 2016
9
0
Blaenau Ffestiniog
Ok jaeger.i know Whitch way to go know I'm going to use the clips.to me it looks the best way to go and with a hoop at the bottom this will work perfect for keeping the bivi of me thank you again jaeger for all your help you are a star in welsh(seren) thanking you again for your time you have given me on this topic,good health to you jaeger

Chris
Snowdon Bushwhacker :You_Rock_
 

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