Delving Into Leather Craft.. Whats What??

[Black Sheep]

Quote from Rancid Badger:

"Stitch holes in leather, should be diamond shaped, the same shape, as the cross section of the blade of the awl or pricking iron, that makes them."

Thanks - I hadn't realised that - I have been pushing the awl through and then twisting it round to make sure the needle would go through ok

Hi Elines,

Have a look at this tutorial from over on BB...........

http://www.britishblades.com/forums...ddle-Stitch-Tutorial-stitching-with-2-needles

It explains what RB mean about diamond holes. You can of course use round holes and still saddle stitch it just depends on how you want it to look ( kind of personal preference) Just don't drill the holes use an awl (drilling remove leather = loose holes).

If the leather you have is only thin I wouldn't try to saddle stitch it as this works better when the leather has more substance. I'd make the holes and uss running stitch (still using two needles from both sides) as it will not be thick enough to tie a knot in each hole.

As for the Beeswax and thread, cut the length of thread needed (usually about twice the length of the holes plus half again) then pull the thread so it cuts into the wax and coats the thread (do it several times). the wax serves to Lubricate, hold the stitches in place and waterproof the thread

Richard

 

[Elines]

Richard - thanks - I will try running stitch on the next bit of my project as I am aiming for function and experience not a work of art in my first attempt. I'll also have a better go with the beeswax.

When I see how I get on I will probably look to get some kind of tuition - personally I prefer to have a go at somethng and then have tuition rather than start lessons without any previous experience.

 

[rancid badger]

Here you go:

http://www.leprevo.co.uk/booklist.htm

its £10 + £3 p&p As far as leathercraft goes; it'll be the best £13 you ever spend-honest

best wishes


R.B.

P.S.: you wont need tuition if you get the book

 

[Elines]

Thanks RB - may get the book when back off holiday - it is slightly cheaper from

http://www.theidentitystore.co.uk/productdetails.asp?ID=896&subcatID=

(£11.38)

 

[WolfCrafter]

ONE TIGHTLY STITCHED THREAD!!
Thanks for all the hard working input into the thread guys, I'm glad its taken off with lots of questions and great responses from those in the 'Know'..

Lets hope for those that need it, many more questions are asked and knowledge is shared openly, (the thread is not just for my initial questions that I started on the subject!.. As the thread title states.. 'Delving Into Leather.. What's What??')

Keep it rolling.. and crack-on with the crafting!!

 

[badgeringtim]

Hey good thread - ive managed to make a few passable knife sheaths and some pouches etc but still am confused by some things.
Id say that even not managing to do everything 'propperly' you cna make some nice stuff although im sure it is easier and faster with less head scratching when done the right way. For knife sheaths id say use thick leather it looks much better and lasts and lasts although this could just be the variation i had in my two thicknesses.

As an aside - if anyone wanted too join up for a joint purchase of some veg tan for sheath making pm me - i certainly dont need the whole hide and smaller cuts are very expensive (relatively).

 

[Ratbag]

<snip> You can of course use round holes and still saddle stitch it just depends on how you want it to look ( kind of personal preference) Just don't drill the holes use an awl (drilling remove leather = loose holes). <snip>

I have to say that I use a drill press and a 1mm bit to drill my stitch holes after I've marked them up, as per the Rapidboy knife and sheath tutorial (not sure where that's gone now), and I'm pretty pleased with the results. However I'm sure my projects aren't as nice as some people's work on here.

Maybe I'll learn the proper way when they figure a way to get 6 more hours in the day, but until then...

Rat

 

[Tadpole]

Hey good thread - ive managed to make a few passable knife sheaths and some pouches etc but still am confused by some things.
Id say that even not managing to do everything 'propperly' you cna make some nice stuff although im sure it is easier and faster with less head scratching when done the right way. For knife sheaths id say use thick leather it looks much better and lasts and lasts although this could just be the variation i had in my two thicknesses.

As an aside - if anyone wanted too join up for a joint purchase of some veg tan for sheath making pm me - i certainly dont need the whole hide and smaller cuts are very expensive (relatively).

In the long run it is cheaper to buy a whole hide, and keep it to yourself. Le Prevo sell Columbo sides - grade 2- 3.2mm thick for just over £35. Each side is about 13 square foot, long enough cross the middle to make 50inch belts from the middle and a couple of dozen sheaths pouches hair slides, bracers, just about all the leather you’ll need to make for yourself and friends.

 

[badgeringtim]

I was under the impression that the veg tan looses its maliability or becomes less good with age - and exposure to light when stored.
I have some leather that is certainly not as good as it was - and i have had it in the dark, although have owned it for more then 18 months, and no idea how long it was around before that i suppose...
Also im not going to use that much leather in a long time unless i make a lot more knives! and im running out of family mambers who dont already sport one.

 

[leon-1]

I was in the local saddlers today and had a good chat, I saw and handled one of the few commercially produced jacks / pitchers made during the 20th century. It was handmade for the the queens coronation (it's dated 1953 with the crown and ER in gold). It had been pitched to make it water tight.

There are newspaper cuttings to prove provenance of the item

There were some small cracks in the pitch (nothing that couldn't be sorted easily enough).

The workmanship was exceptionally good and the artisan who had made it had done it in a traditional way using traditional materials. Leatherwork and leather can last a long time, this was 57 years old and in about ten minutes it could have been made watertight and maybe in another 57 years may need doing again.

For me it was a bit like finding the holy grail, I have been researching traditional jacks (not to be confused with the leather tankard) and hardened leather drinking vessels for a good period of time and although relatively young in it's years this is as close to the jacks of old that I have ever come.

Leather when treated properly can last a very long time.

Most leathers will lose flexibility over time and the loss of it's natural oils, but if treated properly it can return to nearly as good as new.

 

[badgeringtim]

Sorry i might not have been being clear.
I was meaning looses its maliability to work with when stored, not the finished product which would tend to have some type of treatement oiling and so -on.
Im sure it can still be used, but comparing it to some newer stuff it wasnt as easy by a long way, and when learning easy is good!!

 

[leon-1]

Sorry i might not have been being clear.
I was meaning looses its maliability to work with when stored, not the finished product which would tend to have some type of treatement oiling and so -on.
Im sure it can still be used, but comparing it to some newer stuff it wasnt as easy by a long way, and when learning easy is good!!

Sorry mate

If you have problem with leather being inflexible look at Oak bark tanned, if you try and fold it it splits, people still use the stuff (me included) because when you get used to working it it's actually nice leather.

Treat old veg tan a bit like Oak Bark Tanned, to allow it to be supple whilst working it dampen the stuff. Worst case scenario actually soak the stuff and allow it to semi dry before working it. If you have to cut it out before you soak it, then the area that you wish to cut out dampen using warm water from a plant spray set to fine mist.

When you've finished working it and it's dyed, dried and the edges are done look at oiling it to restore the natural oils that have leeched from the leather through time, soaking and drying.

 

[Elines]

Thanks RB - may get the book when back off holiday - it is slightly cheaper from

http://www.theidentitystore.co.uk/productdetails.asp?ID=896&subcatID=

(£11.38)

Thanks RB.

Have now returned from holiday and got the book. It is excellent. It is a little bit less than A4 size and has loads of step by step very clear line drawings.

For a beginner it is very good as, for example, it shows how to hold the needle - and having tried it, it is much better than the way that I was doing it as, for example, I now don't have to put the needles down.

Doesn't show you how to put the spike in the awl handle but seems to cover just about everything else you would need to know.

I have now made my first leather thing - a sheath for my laplander - no where near the standard of the stuff shown on this site but functional and very cheap (made out of free furniture warehouse leather samples) and I am pleased with it - now going to have a go at a holder for my water bottle.

Thanks for all the help - especially Leon-1 and Rancid Badger

 

[rancid badger]

I fit the awl blades by clamping them in the vice between two small pieces of copper sheet, then tapping the handle onto the tail of the spike.
You can use scraps of leather instead of copper.

The next book I'd recommend is; "leathercraft tools",[how to use them, how to sharpen them.] again by Al Stohlman

Another very handy book

 

[Klenchblaize]

Stitch holes in leather, should be diamond shaped, the same shape, as the cross section of the blade of the awl or pricking iron, that makes them.QUOTE]

Indeed!

When ordering pricking irons you used to have the opportunity to dictate, to some extent, the angle at which the pricking teeth would sit. This by drawing such on a piece of card or better still making an imprint of an existing tool of your liking. In my case I copied my tutor's favourite #7 and #8 irons when he wasn't looking!

Also be sure to order not only the harness pricking iron but matching portmanteau at the same time and when they arrive check the spacing. If not spot on send them back!

If I have pet hate it is the tendency to use unnecessarily large pricking irons either to save time or through ignorance of what might be achieved if using handsewen leather sizing's as distinct from saddlery spacing.

Cheers