Dc3+4

[CurtisJohnson]

Hi again,

I'm slowly getting used to this forums stuff, so I'm just asking people for their opinions on the DC3+4 pocket diamond ceramic stones. If anyone could help me come to terms with correctly using it or point me in the right direction, I would greatly appreciate it.

Curtis

 

[Adze]

There's instructions on Fallkniven's site:

http://www.fallkniven.com/en/shop/details/369/13/sharpeners/dc4

 

[CurtisJohnson]

That would make sense :/
Thanks mate

Curtis

 

[Ogri the trog]

The best tip I picked up for the DC4 pouch (it'd work on the 3 pouch too) is to slit the stitching and resew the leather pouch in-side-out so that it can be used as a strop!

ATB

Ogri the trog

 

[sandbender]

"...The best tip I picked up for the DC4 pouch (it'd work on the 3 pouch too) is to slit the stitching and resew the leather pouch in-side-out so that it can be used as a strop!.."

I like that, I'll give it a try, thanks.

 

[ged]

Apparently the manufacturers changed the way they make these stones a little while ago, so I don't know about the newer ones.

They're all a bit on the small side for working comfortably, but if all you've got is the stone and some time you'll manage fine.

On the older ones that I have the diamond side is (a) very coarse and (b) rather delicate. I've heard of people destroying it fairly quickly by trying to sharpen an axe with it. The ceramic side is a bit uneven and it will probably take a while to smooth off the roughest bits.

 

[Perrari]

I have had a DC4, and honestly didnt like it mainly because it is so small, but that I suppose is the comromise you have to make for size & weight.
It was ok for small pocket knives but fiddly for a larger blade. Ogri's idea for the pouch is a good idea though. I have a leather sheath on my knife & have used the back of the belt loop as a strop before, ok still small but ok if you have nothing else for a strop.

 

[BigMonster]

DC4 owner + fallkniven S1.
1. Forget about the diamond side. I'ts very good but use it only for serious chips in the blade. It can really eat away metal.
2. It's small so you need 2-4 small nails (with the smallest "head" possible). It's almost imposible to use it from hand. Immobilize it and you won't have any problems even with S1.
3. Practice using it on something you don't care about. It takes half an hour or so to get the feel of it and calibrate to it's size.

Remember it's purpose is mainly field resharpening and it's very good at it. But you can't beat proper wet stone and strop back home.

 

[Wook]

I also have heard that the newer ones are not so good. I have a DC4 that is 4 or 5 years old and have been very happy with it.

Prior to this I was using wet and dry paper, and prior to this a very coarse oilstone. I can tell you my DC4 is better than either of those.

It will get a blade shaving sharp. Coupled with a decent strop I find it to be all I need, so I don't just use it as a field stone.

I'm sure I've probably horribly butchered the grinds on my knives to the point that I would offend the pros on here - but for my own purposes if it cuts like a razor, then I'll consider it razor sharp

The small size of the stone is not so much of an issue I find, because it gives you the freedom to either use the knife on the stone or use the stone on the knife. Both work in my experience.

I tend to convex my blades because this is much easier to touch up freehand with a stone on knife technique. No table needed - you don't even have to sit down.

 

[JonathanD]

[video=youtube;D4y8u_iJf1M]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4y8u_iJf1M[/video]

 

[Wook]

Although it should be noted that the above video describes the process for sharpening the Scandi or partially hollow Scandi grinds found on Ray Mears' bushcraft knives. Also note that the man who makes Ray's knives for him actually took issue with the whole "polishing the knife with slurry" thing. Alan Wood recommends letting the blades patina rather than polishing them.

Depending on the grind on your knife the above technique may or may not be appropriate. If using on an axe for example (which tend to be convex grind) a rocking circular motion is best because it produces a curved surface.

I have found this can be applied better by using the DC4 on the axe rather than the other way around.

 

[JonathanD]

The knife he is sharpening in that vid is a full flat with flat secondary.

 

[Wook]

The knife he is sharpening in that vid is a full flat with flat secondary.

Apologies, you are correct. I didn't bother watching the video since I have seen it before and mis-remembered the knife he used.

Still, most of what I said still holds

 

[JonathanD]

Still, most of what I said still holds

It certainly does.

 

[Samon]

The best tip I picked up for the DC4 pouch (it'd work on the 3 pouch too) is to slit the stitching and resew the leather pouch in-side-out so that it can be used as a strop!

ATB

Ogri the trog

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94894&highlight= << like this (it should have been this way to start with, stupid fallkniven!)

My DC4 is faulty, concave and covered in bumps. Totally dissapointing, and I hear the newer ones are made from inferior material, I think someone said it was slightly like a 'pumice piece'!


My advice is don't bother with it, get yourself a spyderco double stuff! far superior in materials, quality and dimensions. And the pouch comes already like a strop

 

[JonathanD]

I put a thread up about the new DC ceramic side a year or two back. After all this time, It is still not worn down as fine as they said it would. Awful compared to the old one....

http://www.bushcraftuk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77922

 

[Wook]

Does anyone know if they new DC521 bench stone is made of the good materials or the rubbish new materials?

If it is built like a big giant old style DC4 it would be worth buying.....

 

[Wook]

I decided to contact Fallkniven regarding their sharpening stones. They got back to me today:

[FONT=&quot]Dear Sir/Madam,
I have an older DC4 sharpening stone and have been very pleased with it. I have been considering buying another. However after speaking with friends I have been told that you have changed the design of the DC4 and that the new one is not nearly as good. Will you be going back to the old design any time soon?

Many Thanks

[/FONT]Hi,
Yes we have change the DC4 with a new better ceramic stone.
We think it´s a lot better than the old one and we will never go back to the old version.

Best regards

Eric Hjortberger

Fällkniven AB

Perhaps if they genuinely think it is better, people need to write to them till they realise otherwise?

They replied to me within 1 business day so they don't seem hostile to customer communication.

I sent them the following reply:

Hi Eric,
Thank you very much for getting back to me so promptly.

I must admit I have my reservations about the new DC4. According to some who have bought one the newer models are not as smooth or as consistent as the older models.

You can see some reviews with these complaints here:

http://www.heinnie.com/Sharpeners/Fallkniven-Sharpeners/Fallkniven-DC3DC4-Whetstones/p-370-212-418/

I do appreciate you getting back to me so quickly and will definately consider Fallkniven products in the future - however I doubt I will buy a new model DC4. The old model was everything I wanted in a sharpening stone - I don't think it needed changing.

Best Regards

 

[Samon]

I found their customer service equally crap as their product! they claimed I had to wait like 5 months to return my stone, but I couldn't be arsed to wait that long and set about correcting it on my bench grinder.

They are selling out just like every big company does, soon it'll be made in china and be even worse. The last thing I'd expect from them is a lie though, their new one is crap in comparison and they know it is! gah.. that's naother reason why I prefer the spyderco, atleast the money spent actually goes towards a fantatic stone.. for now.