Custom or not?

[JonathanD]

It is definitely about having something special and taking pride in that item. It is touted as THE most important tool. I grew up with the mysticism of swords like Excalibur and Robin of Sherwoods Albion. A symbol, something to remind you of what you want or need to do or become and having a constant companion you can rely on throughout the years, but at the same time, something that you need to look after for it to work. Sure, I can use a Mora, but they are impersonal and if it breaks, I can get another the same. They lack that extra spark of pleasure and familiarity in use, and if lost, it doesn't hurt. Custom knives are all about personality, pleasure and memories that grew over the years. You do get attached to inanimate objects. Well I do anyway.

 

[Silverback 1]

It is definitely about having something special and taking pride in that item. It is touted as THE most important tool. I grew up with the mysticism of swords like Excalibur and Robin of Sherwoods Albion. A symbol, something to remind you of what you want or need to do or become and having a constant companion you can rely on throughout the years, but at the same time, something that you need to look after for it to work. Sure, I can use a Mora, but they are impersonal and if it breaks, I can get another the same. They lack that extra spark of pleasure and familiarity in use, and if lost, it doesn't hurt. Custom knives are all about personality, pleasure and memories that grew over the years. You do get attached to inanimate objects. Well I do anyway.

Good post JD.

Owning and using a knife, axe, firearm, or anything that you take on your outdoor adventures and come to love using, makes memories that will stay with you always.

 

[British Red]

Totally agree that a "customised" tool is a joy to own - but that customisation need not be expensive. An axe you have hung and ground yourself can be every bit as meaningful as a custom one. Grandads pocket knife can be irreplaceable. Your dad's first rifle (however cheap)?


I'm sure you know what I mean

 

[mountainm]

Totally agree that a "customised" tool is a joy to own - but that customisation need not be expensive. An axe you have hung and ground yourself can be every bit as meaningful as a custom one. Grandads pocket knife can be irreplaceable. Your dad's first rifle (however cheap)?


I'm sure you know what I mean

Aye. Hugo of this parish put a simple walnut handle on a hvk blade - I was fortunate to get in a trade. It's a simple thing. But one of my favourite knives.

 

[JonathanD]

Totally agree that a "customised" tool is a joy to own - but that customisation need not be expensive. An axe you have hung and ground yourself can be every bit as meaningful as a custom one. Grandads pocket knife can be irreplaceable. Your dad's first rifle (however cheap)?


I'm sure you know what I mean

That is quite true. Customisation can be done to anything to make it more personal. It's up to the individual how far they want to go. It appealed to me to have a third generation knife maker from the heart of England who did everything the traditional way and by hand, to make my knife. And as you know BR, it was being involved every step of the way with the process of the make that made getting a knife off Stu very special indeed. To get the pictures of it all being made and coming together ingrains you emotionally deeply into the whole project. Much better than placing an order and then getting an email a few weeks later that it's finished.

 

[British Red]

Oh hell yes - the Mr Mitchell is very much the standard by which other knife makers should be measured

 

[JonathanD]

Alan Wood made my original two. It was your thread on the PFK that spurred me on to contact Stu. Then it just snowballed.

 

[woof]

Thanks guys. This kind of feed back is always helpful. The scandi grind has always intrigued me but I have never seen, used or done one. I know very few makers here in SA that do them.Flat or hollow? Each has there own place and purpose and truthfully one knife is really never enough is it? me personally, I would carry a small 3" drop point full flat grind, a lock back (hollow or flat) depending on it's size though I find that a hollow grind is more suited to a thinner blade if slicing is the objective. And of course the ever present axe and saw. I am not partial to using a knife to chop unless you really have to. That's why a 3" drop point with a 3.5mm spine and full flat grind is a good choice for me. Small enough to do everyday tasks and thick enough to withstand the occasional beating.

That British red is a beaut! And nice to see it used. I hate drawer queens, but they have there place, such as paying my bills being a full time knifemaker

What I have been thinking for some time is doing a o1 or N690 version of this one:



A full flat grind satin finish to 240# and micarta handle with a basic sheath with firesteel loop for around £50.00. I first did this shape in a FF and liked it so much I did a full tang in Damascus. I would appreciate your thoughts on this.

Now that being all said the sad truth is I seldom own a knife But that's changing soon. My personal swede lockback is almost done! Forged the crushed W's last week, got some desert iron now must just get it done.

Well that's an attractive price Tim, what are the proposed dimensions ?

Rob

 

[cbr6fs]

The knife i pick really depends on what i'm doing.

For odd jobs a cheap knife will do, but if i'm out in the middle of nowhere then i want a knife i can trust, in my experience that rules out many of the popular cheaper brands as i have had them fail on me.

I'm not concerned to much about the knife itself, if it breaks it breaks, my concern is injury if it fails.

There are production knives that are good quality and are very very strong, so it is possible to get a good one you don't really NEED to go custom.

 

[robevs73]

A steep zero scandi grind in 3-4mm suits me best but I'm never without a decent full flat folder (paramilitary 2, usually) or a leatherman.
My steep scandis are great for wood working duties and stay sharp a long time but they are not food prep knives, hence the flat grind folder.
If I had to rely on one knife it would probably be a full flat with a reasonably steep secondary bevel.
But one knife forever is no fun!!!
P.s. you cant beat a cold steel master hunter, mines an old one (20+ years) and it's 5mm at the spine with a high secondary bevel not like the newer less robust types I've seen.

 

[2Tim215]

Thanks all. I'm getting the impression that the scandi grind is preferred for wood work? Didn't know that

Rob - That Damascus one is just over 6" with a 3" blade measured along the cutting edge, though I am working on another that I think would better suit a woodsman/hunter combo.

 

[woof]

Thanks all. I'm getting the impression that the scandi grind is preferred for wood work? Didn't know that

Rob - That Damascus one is just over 6" with a 3" blade measured along the cutting edge, though I am working on another that I think would better suit a woodsman/hunter combo.

Thanks Tim.

Rob

 

[HillBill]

Scandis are easier to work with wood with.... not necessarily better....just easier.. But its all down to what a person is used to. I've seen a guy do the best feathersticks I've seen with a convex (falky F1), yet he struggled with a scandi.

Thanks all. I'm getting the impression that the scandi grind is preferred for wood work? Didn't know that

Rob - That Damascus one is just over 6" with a 3" blade measured along the cutting edge, though I am working on another that I think would better suit a woodsman/hunter combo.

 

[mountainm]

Scandis are easier to work with wood with.... not necessarily better....just easier.. But its all down to what a person is used to. I've seen a guy do the best feathersticks I've seen with a convex (falky F1), yet he struggled with a scandi.

Scandis dig in too deep for me. My full flat (the one you made) does far better Feathersticks and processes meat n veg.

 

[British Red]

Scandis are easier to work with wood with.... not necessarily better....just easier.. But its all down to what a person is used to. I've seen a guy do the best feathersticks I've seen with a convex (falky F1), yet he struggled with a scandi.

I did this one on a convex grind (an axe)

feather stick by British Red, on Flickr

 

[HillBill]

Convex works well for things like that.... the curve of the bevel encourages the curl on the feather...

 

[British Red]

Yep. I'm not a great fan of convex knives - particularly dislike Bark Rivers. But in some hands it works well. Its certainly the right grind for a chopping tool.

 

[robevs73]

Scandis dig in too deep for me. My full flat (the one you made) does far better Feathersticks and processes meat n veg.

Shallow and micro bevel scandi grinds do dig in too deep I agree, but not all scandis are shallow.