Found this on indestructible
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cross-Bladed-Axe/ anyone seen one before or even heard of one?.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Cross-Bladed-Axe/ anyone seen one before or even heard of one?.
Cross bladed axe?.
- Thread starter Disco1
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I think it hasn't become popular as it seems an awful idea personally.
I'd like to give it a try, i split quite a lot of wood and I can see this saving time on some of it, I'd not want it as my only splitting maul but to be able to use it for the rounds that it works on might save lots of time and back ache, it's 1 strike as opposed to 3.
Cant see you saving much energy after putting in the extra effort of lifting and then swinging the thing
i saw one of those on a facebook axe group last year sometime. I think the guy who made it was a bored welder at work and did it for a giggle.
The cross blades are used on firewood processors that use hyrdaulics to push the blade through a log, so the theory is sound enough. The trouble is that a felling axe doesn't have much weight to it so you would have to swing very hard to make it go through a log of any substance
The cross blades are used on firewood processors that use hyrdaulics to push the blade through a log, so the theory is sound enough. The trouble is that a felling axe doesn't have much weight to it so you would have to swing very hard to make it go through a log of any substance
Something similar may be good for kindeling as a battoning aid, but I don't think you could be sccurate enough with it could you?
I see what you're saying that it is less chops but it would take more effort to get it through on that first hit.
I've used steel wedges set up that way, and as Dave pointed out it's common to see them in hydraulic splitters. I simply can't see it working well on an axe unless only one type and size of (easily split) wood was processed. With such a setup, the amount of force required changes dramatically with even small changes in the wood.
To save work in splitting you refine the wedge or axe to get maximum wedge surface contact with the wood and uniform slope, and use a tire bolted or screwed to the block so that wood inside it stays upright while you walk around splitting from different angles. Those methods work well, and save lots of effort.
To save work in splitting you refine the wedge or axe to get maximum wedge surface contact with the wood and uniform slope, and use a tire bolted or screwed to the block so that wood inside it stays upright while you walk around splitting from different angles. Those methods work well, and save lots of effort.
If that blokes a welder he needs to be told "You're sacked. Bye, don't let the door hit you on the backside on your way out.
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