Chainsaw advice

[iotarho]

A question to all the foresters and arb's out there.

I need to get a small chainsaw for limbing and cutting down small trees - and in which I can ideally use for trail building. Would the husqy 236 or Stihl 171 be reasonable for that? If not, what would you advise?


I apologise if this is in the wrong place!


Cheers.

Jonny

 

[woof]

Don't know the models you mention, but both are good makes, i have 3 stihls, find them excelent tools.

Rob

 

[Buckshot]

I have the 171 model myself
It's the baby of the Styhl range but the 14" bar.
Takes a little longer to do stuff as it hasn't got the torque. It'll get there it just a little longer
Because it's light weight you can use it longer without fatigue too
As an occasional use saw, I think they're hard to beat - unless you've got an extra £200!

 

[British Red]

I run a couple of Husqy's (350 and 321) - as a heavy domestic user. I agree very much with Buckshots assessment - both the machines you have looked at are relatively low power engines. However thats perfect for what you require - limbing and small tree work. My bigger machines do get very heavy after a few hours and I am toying with getting something like a 236 with a 12" bar for this type of work.

Although I run Husqy's in many of my power tools - brushcutters etc. as well as saws, I would suggest that Stihl probably have the edge in terms of reputation.

Clearly if its your first saw, you need to budget about £200 for PPE as well.

Red

 

[Oakleaf]

Only had one Stihl - believe it was the one up from the 171.

No end of trouble with it. Very hard to start and if you didnt get it just right then would flood. Back and forth to dealers - in the end I was ( honest ) told it was because some Supermarket petrol had been used. Contact to Stihl direct was frankly shrugged off. Disappointed as much by attitude of a company with such a great reputation as the actual problems.

Various forums at the time indicated not an isolated problem, but could be got round with careful start up.

I need a chainsaw that starts - every time.

Went for a Husky and have not looked back. Starts each time - everytime - regardless of whether I'm holding my tongue just right...

Whichever you choose try to go for the most power you can afford - balancing against weight.

Let us know how you get on.

 

[Rockmonkey]

I am a fully qualified Arborist, and I run 3 Stihl's, ms181 ms260, ms200t.
The 181 is the current baby of the family worth having, a bit more care is required, again not much low down grunt, but i keep it sharp, so it is the first one i pick up because it is so damn light...
Last time i bought one though, i had to show proof of suficiant licience as each one gets registered with Stihl these days, and i believe Husky are the same...
Stihl are very reliable, and parts are available evrywhere, even B&Q, believe it or not!!
Make sure to get propper training, cos most of the fatal accidents have been by people thinking they can use a chainsaw, when they can't!
Don't want to read another story of "Man cut's off his own head with a Chainsaw", It has happened, more than once!!!
Hope this helps

RM

 

[baggins]

Sthil and Husky! having working in the arb and forestry world for the last 15 years, this is an endless debat.
Both are very well made machines but some prefer the erganomics of the sthil, some the husky.
An old boss once said comparing them was like comparing a Ferrari to a porsche, both top end, the the husky, a bit pricier and needs a bit more tlc to run properly, but smoother and run faster. You get the idea.
My advice is to try and handle both and imagine how your hands and arms would feel after using it for several hours. i use both but have different preferences depending on what i'm doing.
But make sure you do get the proper ppe (chaps, boots, gloves and a helmet with eye and ear protection) and get somebody to show you how to sharpen a chain properly (will save you a fortune in the long run).
Cheers
Baggins

 

[Elines]

From what I have seen with some people using a chain saw in my garden, I think the best advice is to make sure you get properly trained in how to use whichever one you get, and the clothing you need to wear when using it

 

[iotarho]

I've found a Sanli cs45 45 in good nick (and from a little research on a few arb' websites, they seem pretty well reviewed). It however comes without a bar and chain. I gather an Oregon bar is the way to go, but there is an absolutely bewildering amount of bars and chains to choose from! Any help on that would also be appreciated.

On another note - that's pretty much the reason I want to get something a little cheaper! Really don't want to skimp on PPE, and I've got a limited budget.

Cheers chaps.

 

[British Red]

I like the Oregon Powersharp auto sharpening system - dead easy to get fully sharp in 5 seconds. To be fair, some pros don't like them - but they work for me. They do make a bar and chain to fit the Sanli4545

http://chainsawspecialists.co.uk/acatalog/Oregon_PowerSharp_system.html

Red

 

[Woody110]

From what I have seen with some people using a chain saw in my garden, I think the best advice is to make sure you get properly trained in how to use whichever one you get, and the clothing you need to wear when using it

I couldn't agree more. Chain saws are very dangerous if not handled and used in a correctly! Get yourself trained and the proper kit.
A chainsaw will take off your leg as easy as taking a tree down.

Personally I don't use them, I have done a few years ago and it was very effective, however I was under the supervision of Mad Dave, and he gave me a load of instruction before I even picked up the saw.

I use a hand saw and if its to big, I will get someone else to cut it down.

 

[spandit]

I've got a Stihl MS181 and it's pretty good. Nice and light and although you're not going to cut down huge trees with it, the kickback is more controllable than a big saw. I did have problems with the top cover floating up with the vibration so I've taped it up but once you learn how to start it (manual isn't that clear) it's a great little saw.

I didn't have any formal training. Got some tips off friends and watched a lot of safety videos on the Internet - perhaps not a direct substitution for one-to-one supervision but it does teach the basics and these things can be very dangerous

 

[iotarho]

Ah cheers Red, are there are any slightly cheaper options? As 50 quid seems quite a fair amount for it.

I am going to get a certificated, but more for peace of mind. As I'm not totally inexperienced handling them (thank god), as used them a few times with the Forestry Commission in Malaysia. I am a complete newbie when it comes to actually buying and owning one though.

Some good news though - I received my billhook today. It's a Morris Tenterden pattern and what an absolute beaut! Sharpened it up slightly and it's lovely. I'm roaming around the garden just looking for uses for it. How did I ever live without one?!

Jonny

 

[British Red]

Ah cheers Red, are there are any slightly cheaper options? As 50 quid seems quite a fair amount for it.

You can fit a regular Oregon bar (runs about £27 for the 18" one that your saw is supplied with) and a new 0.325 chain (about £17)...so about £42. Then of course you will need a file and file guide to keep it sharp ...about £5.

...not a huge amount in it really

 

[Firefly1]

Hi Guy's
Just to add my pennies worth I agree with the previous posters Re PPE & Trainning. As to kit all i can say is that with my family of saws:- STIHL Ms 180,Echo 420ES, Husky 362XP, STIHL Ms460, Out of all of them and i do use all of the saws and as the other posters said you are going to work much safer if you buy a saw more powerfull than you need as this will stop you trying to push the saw through the wood.
After 15 years doing Forestry,Clearing,Felling and of course Stripping, I've found that the one saw that i keep picking up as if i was a moth to the flame is the Echo 420ES the reason V V light compaired to my Husky362Xp and my STIHL 460( the Beast ). The 420 will do what my Husky does and i find that the Echo in my mind is the best allrounder i've found over the years they also come with a 5 year domestic warranty
It has to be said also that this has what is called Easy Start and it feels like you are pulling on elastic Very different "feel" to the traditional decomp valve in such away that you don't suffer with the saw tipping as you pull the chord to start Link:- http://www.echo-tools.com/index.php?id=233.

This is the saw I'd recommend but please get at least a one day Chainsaw saftey course and of course the PPE this should be For your level at least. For the cost These may be the best option for you is to buy a ready made up saftey kit bag these normally contain at least, Saw Chap's leggins that stay up by being clipped to your belt a pair of either chainsaw "Wellies" or over boots,Gloves with protection IN BOTH GLOVES Helmet with mesh visor Ear defenders DO NOT USE EAR PLUGS as they do not stop the Hi frequency sound by a 2 stroker Here are some links to show the least kit to be safe:- http://www.husqvarna.com/uk/accessories/safety-equipment-and-clothes/clothes/protective-kit/

http://www.husqvarna.com/uk/accesso...-and-insoles/protective-boots,-functional-28/

This is only the beginning of your learning curve, 2 tips just to get you started:- Allways try to keep your left wrist as clost to the brake bar( Think of riding a motor bike and you want to overtake,you twist your right wrist to give it the beans )This way if you get kickback it gives less distance for the chain to lift before your wrist trips the break bar.

As you line up for your first cut shift your body so that you are more on the left side of the saw( sounds strange but will seem natural almost instantly ).


Sorry if it seems that i've gone to deep but i've seen 2 good mates of mine get kissed on the collar bone.


Only one more tip RELAX and after your first cut just get the shavings and give them a big sniff and you'll get what's called Chainsaw Smile, Now't better than 2 stroke and pine.


Hope this helps you do it saftley and properly.


Firefly1

 

[hobbes]

Another vote for the little Stihls. Used my neighbour's MS181 on and off over the past two years. Mine's the MS230, a size up as it were. Processed an awful lot of firewood with that last year after the Hakki Pilke got sold. Great little saws. Fine for felling & processing small conifers and our ash coppice. A bit small for felling our larger timber oaks, but still managed as never had many to do. They'll keep you in firewood no trouble. Roughneck carpentry too - log constructions etc. Bigger/more expensive saws are faster, have a longer working life, and vibrate less, but those things are probably only important for pro users. One negative: the Stihl fuel caps really annoy some people.

 

[demographic]

Not sure about MS171's but the 017's and MS170s are quite nice little homeowner saws, clamshell design with a pretty weak pressed steel conrod.
If you ever take one to bits be careful how you lock the piston in place as the conrod can often bend when you put a rattle gun on the crank end to remove the flywheel/clutch.
If you put rope (old motorbike trick) into the cylinder through the plug hole to act as a cylinder stop, make sure you put a good amount in, other wise if the piston is too close to TDC there's far more force on the conrod as you turn the flywheel or clutch nut.
017/MS 170's could do with a decent heat shield between the cylinder and the carb as they start from cold just fine but sometimes after its been running a while then stopped it develops a vapour lock in the fuel lines and doesn't start well if its still hot. If I remember right 018's and MS 180s have the same cylinder and carb so I suppose will be the same.

Not so sure about MS171s as I'm under the impression that they are the newer cleaner running (stratified scavenged) models, I'm not convinced that this is a good thing and can't see how much difference to the planets emissions a change to a 30 something cc homeowner chainsaw will make.

Now, having said all that I have a Stihl 017 that's a lovely little saw to use, yes it vapour locks after a good bit of use and then a short break, yes it could do with not having fixed jets in the carb and some H&l adjustments would be nice but it works OK, its nice and light and I got it for nowt so it owes me nothing.

I suspect that if anything serious goes wrong with it I will just bin it though and doubt that a repair would be practical like it would be on a vertically split crank case pro saw like my far more powerful and heavier 038 AV super.

Sorry but that's all I can think of for now, hey, I've had beer. I might add to this when I remember more stuff.

 

[mrcharly]

As you line up for your first cut shift your body so that you are more on the left side of the saw( sounds strange but will seem natural almost instantly ).

Makes sense to me. Right forearm should be aligned with the cut for direction. Left should be elbow out, forearm at 90 degrees to saw. If saw kicks back, the brake will be activated by kickback guard hitting your left forearm.


Never used PPE in Australia. In retrospect it was bloody stupid, but then I don't think the kit was even available.

I've met a bloke who gave himself a lobotomy with a chainsaw. He took the kickguard/brake off, reckoned it got in the way. Saw kicked back, straight into his forehead.

 

[spandit]

I've met a bloke who gave himself a lobotomy with a chainsaw. He took the kickguard/brake off, reckoned it got in the way. Saw kicked back, straight into his forehead.

What can you say to an idiot like that?

 

[mrcharly]

Not a lot that he can understand!

I was told he wasn't very bright before the accident, so nothing much changed.