carving axes

[S.C.M.]

As the title suggests - what makes the best carving axes? Not makers, like Gransfors Bruks, but actual features: long/short haft, head weight, curvature, etc.
There will probably be disagreements over what is best, but I think that will be more down to style than, um, anything else.

 

[heath]

I'm sure there will be others more expert than myself to answer this, but for me, i like a nice long edge with a curve that extends above the head. This allows you to make long slicing cuts. I also like it to have a bit of a beard so that you can choke up close to the head for fine work. The length of the handle i prefer is about 14 inches. As for weight, i think that's very much a personal preference, i like a head that's about 800g, the GB carving axe is about 1kg if i recall correctly, which can be a bit heavy if you don't do that much carving. I think that Robin Wood suggested that you use the heaviest axe that you can for 20 minutes without feeling too tired. Hopefully Robin will come on here and give a much better reply.

 

[Biker]

I think it's a case of whatever you can find and use effectively to get the end results. But FOR ME this is what I look out for in an axe.

This is a take down type of axe which I bought as a plile of rust and cleaned up and fitted a new handle to. ged bought this particular axe, I have its twin in my workshop. You can choke right up under the head for detail work and if required slip the head off the shaft and use it as a sort of plane. The pronounced curve of the cutting edge allows many different ways of slicing into the wood and the very thin blade allows you to get a lower angle onto the wood. I sharpened the edge of this axe up to the point where it was shaving sharp. It wieghs in around 550gram (about a 1lb in old money) I'e even used this axe head as a cutting tool for leatherwork.

The other axes I've restored that doubles nicely as carving axes is the one indicated as number 1 in the picture below. It still has a curved cutting edge but is less promounced as the other. This one sold to Mountainm. Again the head comes off the shaft for other carving techniques to be used with it. Personally I like keeping the handle in place as this allows better grip and puts some weight behind the tool. Having the cutting edge close to the shaft helps with control of it. If it's too far away from the shaft you risk a wobble when applying pressure. For example axe number 3 below is great for chopping and general use but might not be so hot for carving stuff with.

Hope this helps. Looking forward to what other people have to say about this subject.

ged and Mountainm have you used your axes in anger yet?

 

[ged]

... ged and Mountainm have you used your axes in anger yet?

Not in anger, in pleasure. I sent you a photo, remember?

 

[S.C.M.]

well those are some interesting axes. I think I have seen axe heads for sale that kind of look like no 3, if they were seen from the top, they would look something like this: ---0 next time I see them I will try to take pics.


And I forgot to mention, I'm using 2 axes/hatchets right now for carving - one is a thin bitted one, with a fibreglass handle and a really slimm profile, the other is an old head marked "sandvik 10/21/4 made in germany" (I may have the number wrong) its mounted on a wooden (pine) handle I made to mimic the other ones handle. Its not good, it's loose.

 

[robin wood]

These are my thoughts on carving axes
I should add to that though that the axe is no where near as important as the person using it. Some of the best carvers I have seen have been using tools which I would rate as being very second rate, an old Gypsy in Romania for instance who sharpened his tools with a file but his skill level was fantastic.

 

[plastic-ninja]

well those are some interesting axes. I think I have seen axe heads for sale that kind of look like no 3, if they were seen from the top, they would look something like this: ---0 next time I see them I will try to take pics.


And I forgot to mention, I'm using 2 axes/hatchets right now for carving - one is a thin bitted one, with a fibreglass handle and a really slimm profile, the other is an old head marked "sandvik 10/21/4 made in germany" (I may have the number wrong) its mounted on a wooden (pine) handle I made to mimic the other ones handle. Its not good, it's loose.

If it's loose please don't try and use it on wood mate.Find a nice piece of ash and make a decent haft for it before you need to post one of those "OMG Look what I did to my Thumb/finger/hand/arm/leg !!!!!" threads.
There are lots of good how to's on this site and others and it will make a nice little job for a quiet afternoon.
Personally I like my big GB carver for removing large amounts of wood and my little self-made axe (under the beady eye of Dave Budd) for more delicate work.They both have a pronounced beard for choking and are very sharp with a similar sized haft.Apart from that they are very different and both very useful.I think sharp is the key.You can cut or slice well with a small axe head as long as it is well honed.You will find which you prefer in time.
Now go fix that loose handle!
Simon

 

[heath]

I have a few kent pattern axe heads lying around that i've picked up from car boots, so i thought i'd have a go at reshaping one to look more like what i like in a carving axe. Didn't take long for me to come up with this:

Now just need to put an edge on it and it on a handle. Moving house on friday though, so it will be a work in slow progress.

 

[S.C.M.]

If it's loose please don't try and use it on wood mate.Find a nice piece of ash and make a decent haft for it before you need to post one of those "OMG Look what I did to my Thumb/finger/hand/arm/leg !!!!!" threads.*snip*
Now go fix that loose handle!
Simon

I don't use the pine-handled axe for heavy work, I made it to have a balance point near the handle where I could choke up on it, cos doing that with the other gave me blisters I use it more like a heavy knife than an axe. no swinging it around!
also, if you can tell me where to find a suitable bit of ash over here...I don't think its native ... any other handle suggestions? wood olive make a good handle? I'm pretty sure almond won't, its quite brittle when dry...

 

[S.C.M.]

I have a few kent pattern axe heads lying around that i've picked up from car boots, so i thought i'd have a go at reshaping one to look more like what i like in a carving axe. Didn't take long for me to come up with this:

Now just need to put an edge on it and it on a handle. Moving house on friday though, so it will be a work in slow progress.

looks good! how will you put the edge on? grinder or files/stones and elbow grease?

 

[heath]

looks good! how will you put the edge on? grinder or files/stones and elbow grease?

Probably start with the grinder and then finish with files and stones.

 

[tamoko]

Stefan Ronnqvist viking axe, Svante Djarv viking or carving axe

http://www.woodlandcraftsupplies.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_4

 

[heath]

Stefan Ronnqvist viking axe, Svante Djarv viking or carving axe

http://www.woodlandcraftsupplies.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_4

Have you used any of these axes? I have the rnnqvist and the SD little Viking. I'd be intersted in your thoughts.

 

[Everything Mac]

I've always found that a point extending above the eye of the axe is very useful.

I also much prefer a heavier axe. I'm not sure why I just do.

Kent axes seems to have a really bad reputation for carving on the forum but I think they are excellent carving axes. They have broad edges which allow all sorts of cuts to be made, as well as using the blade as a plain.

You guys should try carving with the gb broad/hewing axe. Now that's fun!!

Andy

 

[mohd]

The criteria for an excellent carving axe are:

1. It has a long blade (i.e. 4" - 5")
2. The edge curves above the haft to allow for nice long slicing cuts.
3. The bearded blade allows your hand to get behind the blade.
4. And the curved haft allows a variety of grips.

It should looks like this:

So this one should be okay and you just need to fix it with a curved haft

mohd

 

[ToneWood]

I have a few kent pattern axe heads lying around that i've picked up from car boots, so i thought i'd have a go at reshaping one to look more like what i like in a carving axe. Didn't take long for me to come up with this:

Now just need to put an edge on it and it on a handle. Moving house on friday though, so it will be a work in slow progress.

I like it a lot. Do you have a before picture (and perhaps after sharpening)? How much did it weigh at the start & end (the handle area looks quite large & heavy)?
I have a large, (too) fast wet wheel - it would put nice bevels on that. It still took me 3 session to take a very blunt 3lb Kent-style axe to very sharp. Yes,
starting with files makes sense - be careful not to gouge too deeply if you start with a long mill b@stard file (shorter ones are less coarse).

 

[ToneWood]

I followed Robin Wood's excellent advice and bought a Gransfors Swedish carving axe and it is lovely and I've learnt a lot about axes from it. It is one of my favorite things. It is a bit heavy though (about 2lb+).

So, I also use a very cheap 700g Lidl's axe, made in China, which I have sharpen into a carving axe. I use it as much as my Gransfor Swedish carving axe. The blade flares up & down, which is what attracted me to it - giving it a cutting blade that it a little longer and more curved than a regular modern hatchet. It is now an excellent carving axe IMHO.

What do I look for in carving axe?
1. Sharp, very sharp. It might be all you need.

2. Deep carving bevels (thinking about 1" deep). Wille Sundqvist (Sweden) and (hence) Drew Langsner (USA) both recommend this. Either symmetrical or right(/left)-hand biased - Robin Wood has some interesting insights on this.

3. Long cutting face/edge - longer than usual (viking style?). Not essential but it just seems to help.

4. Weight: about 700g/1.5lb-ish (i.e. 600-800g) for general carving use. But there is a lot of scope for personal preference, and its makes some sense to use different size axes for different size jobs/people. 500g-2kg? . #2 Kent pattern is a popular size for general carving use but bigger & smaller sizes can work well too.

5. A slim blade. Gransfors excels at this. HOWEVER, the quintessential carving axe - the Gransfor Bruks Swedish Carving Axe designed by/with Wille Sundqvist - has quite a thick blade! And it's a great carving axe, but so is my slim bladed Lidl axe & the Gransfors Wildlife hatchet. English Kent-pattern axes are slim-bladed and well regarded for carving, once sharpened for carving. 50-100 years ago every house in Britain probably had one or two and few people use axes now, so a good variety of used Kent pattern axes are readily available now.

6. A cool looking, great feeling wooden handle that fits your hand well for power strokes & when choked up near the head. But you can always carve your own Standard handles can be excellent.

Other highly rated carving axes: Hans Karlsson Sloyd axe designed with Wille Sundqvist (I suspect this is the same as the Hans Karlsson carpenters axe sold by Woodland Craft supplies - but I'd be happy to be corrected on that), Ronnqvist viking-style axe, Svant Djarv's various viking style axes. Their shapes are all variations on the Swedish Carving axe - based on/similar to a 1000 year old Gottland viking axe (skaggox?).