Just a shameless bump to remind people that the "countdown" clock is ticking......
3 weeks left for anyone who still plans to post an entry....
3 weeks left for anyone who still plans to post an entry....
Build a Bucksaw (Competition registration)
- Thread starter British Red
- Start date
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Hey Guest, Early bird pricing on the Summer Moot (29th July - 10th August) available until April 6th, we'd love you to come. PLEASE CLICK HERE to early bird price and get more information.
I may not have time to cobble another. Big project for the Boy Scouts.
Do your Scouts have competitions over there?
We have something called Klondike. The boys pull a sled around a course and do contests at different stations along the way. Our guys have won two years in a row and need a new sled as theirs is falling apart.
If there is any interest, I'll start a new thread so as not to hijack this.
Do your Scouts have competitions over there?
We have something called Klondike. The boys pull a sled around a course and do contests at different stations along the way. Our guys have won two years in a row and need a new sled as theirs is falling apart.
If there is any interest, I'll start a new thread so as not to hijack this.
I have done a bit more work to mine , still needs some tweeks to make it perfect though , pics to follow when done 
Interesting. They used to but I don't know about nowadays? I'd love to see another thread on the Klondike though if you find the time - the sled work would be fascinatingweaver said:
Red
andyn
Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
I made a "field expedient" bucksaw over the weekend while in the woods in the mud and rain with little more than a saw blade, a length of coppiced hazel and a length of paracord. (Oh and I used a Knife to make it obviously LOL)
None of this boring "look what i made in the garage with carpenters tools and power tools" malarky (
only joking, they look fantastic)...Will edit post with picture for entry tomorrow.
If im too late for entry then never mind as it was good fun making it anyway.
EDIT...heres the pic for my entry.
None of this boring "look what i made in the garage with carpenters tools and power tools" malarky (
only joking, they look fantastic)...Will edit post with picture for entry tomorrow.If im too late for entry then never mind as it was good fun making it anyway.
EDIT...heres the pic for my entry.
i mainly used my sak for mine, except the holes which i used a power drill for speeds sake. the joints between the handles and the spreader bar were so tight that at first the blade had no tension no matter how tight the string was! i tried to radius the shoulders of the tennon, and shaved some off the tounge, but then the handles slipped onto the spreader, hence the bolts, just for speed once again, also had run out of wood to use!
sc
sc
I'll have something to show soon. After struggling to find time for ages, I've now got a rough cut saw which is in the process of final shaping. It's probably not going to win any prizes, but I'm going to have a nice shiny new saw soon!
I'm not in the contest but I put this one together over the past holidays. The square notch brace really makes it a strong design with no wobble.
Well I haven't made any headway due to being busy with helping my buddy fix up to be ready for a move and fixing me up (while I have lots of benefits) in case I retire this year.. Every innovative idea that I've come up with has now been done, though!
Hoodoo: How precise did you have to be with the cross-brace length with that setup? Do you figure it's be workable with long (36") blades and carving things out in the bush?
Hoodoo: How precise did you have to be with the cross-brace length with that setup? Do you figure it's be workable with long (36") blades and carving things out in the bush?
Not sure about 36 inches. This one is 21 inches and it's rock solid. Making one the same way in the bush is a project that is on my mind. I want to use the knurling on the spine of Joel Bolden's PAK knife to cut the notches to see how it works. The joint needs to be a snug fit.
Want me to make that an entry Hoodoo? It certainly deserves to be and it wouldn't be a "sharps" competition without you and Old Jimbo in it somewhere
Red
Red
British Red said:Want me to make that an entry Hoodoo? It certainly deserves to be and it wouldn't be a "sharps" competition without you and Old Jimbo in it somewhere
Red
Nah, that's fine. I'm just looking forward to seeing the rest of them. I just posted this one in case someone was interested in seeing a square notch brace. I also have one I made with a mortise and tenon brace which is also very rigid. I can post a pic of that if someone is interested. I've already posted a pic of the saw in another thread but not taken apart to show the mortise and tenon.
I've got behind as I was in Britain over Xmas and I have to work the next two weekends. It should be built but I won't get much time for tuning. My idea is to have a go at lashing the braces on and see if this works. It'll be a good experiment and rope working practice too.
andyn said:
Plenty of time mate - just about 3 weeks left so you are well in time - nice job BTW
I think Hoodoo prefers his Lee Reeves to my little axe - I wonder why
He's finishing mine off right now.....
. Red
Alright, have the blade (Swedish Steel replacement for the Trailblazer saw). And the design figured out... thinking...
either birds eye maple or oak, any suggestions? I want a hefty saw, weight always seems to be my preference (go big, or go home )
Going to use linseed oil to help expose the grain, and protect it.
Making a sheath to carry it all in (same wood as the saw)
And finally... woodburned vines on the handles, braces and sheath (still working on the design.
I figure function and looks should win me that axe
either birds eye maple or oak, any suggestions? I want a hefty saw, weight always seems to be my preference (go big, or go home
)Going to use linseed oil to help expose the grain, and protect it.
Making a sheath to carry it all in (same wood as the saw)
And finally... woodburned vines on the handles, braces and sheath (still working on the design.
I figure function and looks should win me that axe
Hoodoo said:
Is there something hidden that stops lateral movement, Hoodoo, or is it all down to the tight fit of the joints and the tension?
scanker said:
I think it all has to do with the close fit in the joints. You need to make sure the tension does not work against the joints so the brace is designed to fit squarely while under tension. The way I did this one was to put nuts on either side of the all-thread for each upright handle, then tightened them down. I used a square to square the blade to the handles. I then cut the brace and fitted it in snugly. Obviously if you are going to use a rope for tension, this wouldn't work, but there's more than one way to skin a cat.
Here's my entry:
It's made of teak, but it was out of the scrap bin!
I'm pleased with it and think it's turned out well. I'm currently working on a small saw to take a 12" blade. If it gets finished and there's a slot left at the end of the month I'll probably stick that in too.
If it's any use to anyone, I've found the Zeppelin Bend is excellent for tying the knot in the tensioning string as it's very easy to undo after tension.
It's made of teak, but it was out of the scrap bin!
I'm pleased with it and think it's turned out well. I'm currently working on a small saw to take a 12" blade. If it gets finished and there's a slot left at the end of the month I'll probably stick that in too.
If it's any use to anyone, I've found the Zeppelin Bend is excellent for tying the knot in the tensioning string as it's very easy to undo after tension.
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