Bowdrill Troubleshooting

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velvetmonkey

Member
Feb 2, 2012
23
0
Co Down
Hi all,

I'm new to the forum and was wondering if anyone out there could advise me.......

I'm a fledgling bushcrafter, having a love of the outdoors and a passion for the skills that go with it.
I've been on a few outdoors/survival courses and one of the things that really inspired me was the bowdrill. I had success lighting my tinder bundle of goose grass/rosebay willow herb/birch bark using the instructors hearth and spindle (we had to cut our own bows).

I wanted to do this completely by myself so subsequently cut some wood to make my own set. I used what I'm nearly 100% sure is Lime wood. I've carved the hearth and spindle and dried them out well.

I've come across the following problems and need some guidance.
(Remember, I'm fairly new to all this so go easy on me!)

1. I'm getting a lot of squeaking at times (although I amd getting some black dust)
2. my cord keeps slipping (i.e. the spindle stays in place while I'm moving the bow)
3. the cord I've used keeps wearing out and breaking

Any guidance you could give is greatly appreciated
 

velvetmonkey

Member
Feb 2, 2012
23
0
Co Down
Don't laugh, but the cord I'm using is a cheap paracord type material - nothing more than a shoelace.

I don't know whether I need to employ a rougher "rope" type cord?
Although I've been told spruce roots can be used, and I've harvested some - they seem quite smooth?

Bear in mind this could all be down to my inexperience and technique!
 

ged

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jul 16, 2009
4,981
15
In the woods if possible.
The cords that they sell for the pull-starters on garden machinery are very wear resistant and very strong, so you can get good tension. Use a stronger bow to get more tension and allow for some adjustment to get the tension right. Friction in the top bearing can be reduced in all sorts of ways, a hollow pebble or a limpet shell for example. You could roughen up the surface of the spindle with the back of a knife or something but I admit I've never found that necessary. You might be using too much downward pressure on the spindle, try easing off a little. It all needs to go smoothly and without too much effort when you drill slowly, so that when you apply the effort and go fast the effort goes into making heat and not into making sweat.
 

Elines

Full Member
Oct 4, 2008
1,590
1
Leicestershire
This is the sort of problem where someone who knows about bow-drilling could probably easily tell you what needs changing if they could just see you trying to do it - so any chance of you going to a meet where that might happen?

Re limpet shells - I agree with Ged - they make it so much easier than using a piece of wood with a cavity cut into it but .... when I tried recently I found that you needed TWO limpet shells (with one inside the other) as the friction causes them to heat up and one would not be enough to avoid burning your hand (well ... that was my expererindce anyway)
 

lannyman8

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 18, 2009
4,005
3
Dark side of the Moon
hello and welcome to BCUK....;)

Q 1. I'm getting a lot of squeaking at times (although I amd getting some black dust)

A 1. try messing with the amount of pressure you are using, add some or take away as needed until the noise goes, i will talk you through how i do it at the end.


Q 2. my cord keeps slipping (i.e. the spindle stays in place while I'm moving the bow)

A 2. tie the cord straight to the bow (as in before its bent) then when you twist the drill into the string it wont slip, this means it is harder to twist the drill into the string though. make sure the bow is as long as your arm, this will make it more easy to drill with greater effect.

Q 3. the cord I've used keeps wearing out and breaking

A 3. i use a para cord copy and it works fine, it might be because of your looser cord causing friction + heat which will melt it rather than wear through, try with the tighter cord, if that does not work plat 3 bits together, this will also help grip the spindle more too, causing even less slipping.

the way i do my bow drill is in 2 stages, stage 1 is filling the notch 3/4 full with dust, this needs very little pressure or smoke, just a steady slight wisp the whole way through, with mid brown to dark brown dust...

stage 2 is the heat section, this is when you "light" the dust which has formed, just add lots off pressure (not loads and loads), you will be getting lots of smoke now with "black" dust, fill the notch all the way, and keep going for another 10-20 stokes of the bow...

carefully remove the drill, and then chill, dont rush you have time now to recover if you need to. you should still have wisps of smoke coming from the dust, which means you have a coal, wait and recover take a moment then pick up your "pre sorted tinder bundle". carefully put the coal into the tinder and blow to flame, this on its own takes time to master, char cloth and tinder fungus are easy compared to a fragile bow drill coal...

for tinder i like to use dead grass, most places have it and its normally quite dry where its been blowing in the wind, furn is also good once buffed up a little..

my bow drill lesson is in the youtube link below if you wanted to have a look

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3nvnjioLmQ

regards.

chris.
 

lannyman8

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 18, 2009
4,005
3
Dark side of the Moon
as to shells and rocks, horses for courses and all that, i have never needed to use one but does not mean they dont work...

if you choose to use a wooden bearing block instead just make sure you lube the hole up with grass or green leaves "every time", this way you should be all good, make sure the drill tip is nice and pointed too, just be careful not to stab your hand if you slip off....
 

Elines

Full Member
Oct 4, 2008
1,590
1
Leicestershire
as to shells and rocks, horses for courses and all that, i have never needed to use one but does not mean they dont work...

if you choose to use a wooden bearing block instead just make sure you lube the hole up with grass or green leaves "every time", this way you should be all good, make sure the drill tip is nice and pointed too, just be careful not to stab your hand if you slip off....

I have also had good results from a lubed wooden bearing block - in the field instead of grass you could use petroleum jelly eg if you had cotton wool/petroleum jelly as part of your fire lighting kit. The advantage of limpet shells - I think - is that they take up little space, need no additional lubrication and are 'pre-shaped'. I certainly found them easier to use than a wooden bearing block.
 

Kepis

Bushcrafter through and through
Jul 17, 2005
6,719
2,224
Sussex
Won't have time, Hugo, I've got to try & teach you & Kepis to carve a decent spoon first...

magic, looking forward to that:), if you can steal yourself away from carving during the weekend, can you teach me the bow drill as well please?;)
 
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lannyman8

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jan 18, 2009
4,005
3
Dark side of the Moon
I have also had good results from a lubed wooden bearing block - in the field instead of grass you could use petroleum jelly eg if you had cotton wool/petroleum jelly as part of your fire lighting kit. The advantage of limpet shells - I think - is that they take up little space, need no additional lubrication and are 'pre-shaped'. I certainly found them easier to use than a wooden bearing block.

i have become quite good with the bow drill now so i collect all the bits apart from the cordage on site, my last kit was Sycamore board and Birch drill, which worked very well...:)

i plan to do the whole thing in the field with a big bit of flint, making the tools from that then collecting the wood and cordage then making fire, its a challenge i have set for myself for this year...and im trying to get better with the hand drill too, i have not had a coal from that yet..
 

Elines

Full Member
Oct 4, 2008
1,590
1
Leicestershire
..................................................
i plan to do the whole thing in the field with a big bit of flint, making the tools from that then collecting the wood and cordage then making fire, its a challenge i have set for myself for this year...and im trying to get better with the hand drill too, i have not had a coal from that yet..

Good luck with all of that - way ahead of what I could do:)
 

F7144

Tenderfoot
Oct 18, 2011
78
0
Kent
Let me know your e-mail address and I will send you a 3 page bow drill handout.

Luke
Greencraft
 

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