bivvy camping

[Husky]

Some wise person once said that to sleep comfortably you need 1cm/lived decade. It actually proves rather accurate.
I really like the comfort of a thermarest pad but I can't seem to get used to the new inflatable types such as the "Neoair".

 

[nowhereman]

Tarp and sleeping bag is the best way to experience The Wild Wood - I wouldnt use a tent unless going north in barren lands, where only sheep roam...and high winds render the pocho impractical unless exceptionally sighted. I think my old basha weighs about 6-700g? And a tent, what 2kg? I'd rather carry another kilo of water/food, or a big 4 season bag+liner instead...

V

 

[Paul_B]

Mates tent weighs 860g. My basha weighs 600g and the Rab Survival Zone bivvy weighs is it 300g. Pretty close but the tent is lighter. You can get a two skin tent weighing 560g now so you really have to get a very light tarp to beat that.

I still prefer my tarp setup though as I am a lanky 6'5" tall so an 8' square tarp in cave pitch with rear lifter using trekking poles, dyneema guys with lineloks (knots aren't always secure with 1.5mm dyneema) and Ti pegs is a good shelter in most conditions. Was planning to try my first full on winter camp with it this january but chickened out.

A few tips to consider... if you are using a bivvy with a breathable top but a PU coated or other non-breathable base then put the mat inside. If it is breathable all around for example my Rab SZ (all in breathable Pertex Shield) or full goretex bivvies then a mat is better outside thee bag to help with breathability. If you do put the mat on the outside then check the ground doesn't have stones or twigs or anything that can puncture it. Basically clean the pitch up a bit. I have used the Rab SZ on top of the thermarest but I have used it inside the Rab bivvy too. Bit of a toss up whether the TAR inflatable mat or the bivvy would puncture the easiest.

With my bivvy bag the full length thermarest (TAR) kind of pulls the bivvy flat which can flatten my quilt. I haven't had a problem with this myself.

The quilt is basically a down sleeping bag with most of the base removed and only straps to hold it onto your mat. Since mats need to loft to insulate effectively the down under you has less insulative performance so leave it out to save weight. I find it is good for me. I have an XL one and it is only 600g for a -7C rated comfort temp. Not bad in my book and it packs down small too. Weight and pack size are my main issues so I can use a lighter and smaller pack. The quilt doesn't have a hood so I wear a hat which is lighter than a sleeping bag hood and works better IMHO. A balaclava works even better which I might end up getting for next winter.

Cani just point out that bag ratings as mentioned in adverts and labels of sleeping bags are only relevent if test is to CE standards and states wheter extreme or comfort temps. One is the temp at which you can survive albeit without much sleep and comfort. The other is the temp at which you are warm enough to be able to sleep with comfort but only IF you are an average warmth sleeper. Some people are warm sleepers who can cope with a +7C bag at 0C others need a 12C bag anywhere near 0C temps. I know of some who use a 4 season -12C comfort temp rated bag in the middle of summer!! Also what you eat before turning in. I find a load of plain peanuts are good. high in fat, carbs and protein you produce heat while digesting about 30 to 60 mins after eating them and the energy provided is more than enough to allow your body to heat itself. It is amazing how much that simple act of eating just before sleeping can help keep you warm overnight. It might allow you to use a lower rated and probably lighter sleeping bag than you think you need.

The mat underneath you is very important in the colder conditions as a warm mat can often allow you to use a cooler bag. The ground often sucks heat from you faster than the air around you hence this importance. Do not use simple airbeds in cold as the air alone will not insulate you in the cold. Neo air has an insulation layer to keep the heat against you. TAR mats has the foam inside to inhibit the air movement in the mat. The air removes heat by convection in cheap and simple airbeds. Other mats like exped synmats and downmats se syntheticfibre and down inside the mat to do this. These two are very good in very cold conditions and you might be able to use a 3 season in full on winter using a downmat.

If you do use a cooler bag when intending to use clothing to make it warm enough then make sure you have room inside the bag. nothing worse than using a down jacket or vest inside a bag for the bag and the vest not having enough room to loft up. In fact it is sometimes warmer to wear very little in the bag for this reason. Do not wear wet clothes in your bag. Obvious I suppose but people do it.

 

[Paul_B]

BTW I use my basha in the Lakeland fells in most months of the year on the fells. Its amazing what winds and weather it can cope with. BTW before using it I had a force10 Vitesse single skin tent. It was the only tent that I could afford that was light enough (about 1.3kg). Being single skin it had some condensation issues (not a problem for 90% of the time). Anyway to get the most from it you could leave the front door completely open in even heavy rain without it getting in. This meant a cold draft so I got a light bivvy. Also helped if wind shook condensation drips on me bag. This system was good but a tarp was often nicer, warmer, drier and had more room.

With experience the tarp can become smaller and used just for the head area. Now I use mine as a tent flysheet covering my whole body with room to fully sit up and plenty of room at each end so your feet and head are away from the foot end and the opening in case rain comes in a little.

A good cave pitch copes with wind direction changes too.