Best Folding/lockable knives ?

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I have been considering buying a Nomad Victoronix for just the same purpose. This is listed as a Line Lock but others on the site Swisstool under lockable knives are listed as side lock. Does anyone know if one is better than the other??
 
sorry martyn, i'll repeat my self here :roll: :o):

yep, the RSK has superb geometry, the bevel on the couple i got, (one for me one for a mate) are even finer than the 15 degrees.

if you compare prices to other tac folders with S30V blades it comes out looking pretty good.

warning "steel-bore" bit follows... :roll:
after years of hearing about how everybody elses knives stayed razor sharp for ages and mine never did, i started getting paranoid. then i got a spyderco military from all round diamond geezer, chad234. i don't know what's in S30V, but i know it makes the best cutlery steel i've used to date. :o):

as to wether the RSK is the ideal folder for bushcrafty applications? well it depends on wether you want a simple single folding blade, or a multiblade knife with the very useful saw, awl and so on.

if you wanta single blade then yes, the RSK rocks, it's geometry sees to that. for small detail carving though, it could possibly do with being a tiny bit pointy-er.

if you want the pocket workshop ron hood style. get a big locking SAK. the saw awl and other bits and pieces are really handy, i'd definately go for the liner locks over slide locks. i have two slide lock SAKs, and both have been repeatedly defeated till they didn't work at all. the knife is still ok to use as a simple spring/slipjoint.

cheers, and.
 
sargey said:
if you want the pocket workshop ron hood style. get a big locking SAK. the saw awl and other bits and pieces are really handy, i'd definately go for the liner locks over slide locks. i have two slide lock SAKs, and both have been repeatedly defeated till they didn't work at all. the knife is still ok to use as a simple spring/slipjoint.

cheers, and.

Have you sent the failed side lock SAKs back to claim on warranty? That's the way to get Victorinox to improve the design.

Personally, I like the Victorinox Hunter with its usefully long saw, a blade long enough to fillet a fish and the second gutting blade. Certainly, it's not the heaviest duty knife around, but a useful enough little package if you treat it with a bit of care.

Burnt Ash
 
If it's strength of lock you are after you probably can't beat a Benchmade AXIS lock. It is about as good a lock as one can get. They are also incredibly addictive! The Benchmade 520 Presidio is an awesome knife with quite a bushcrafty blade.

www.benchmade.com

Their knives are made to the highest quality as well, although knives from Spyderco are now using a slightly better steel and attract a fiercely loyal fanbase because Sal Glesser, the founder of Spyderco takes the time to come onto forums like www.britishblades.com and talk with his customers. The knives are pretty damn good as well, and not as 'tactical' looking as Benchmades.

www.spyderco.com

Framelocks (where one part of the handle moves to lock the blade) are also incredibly secure. You'll find them on the very expensive (£250) Chris Reeve Sebenza and the more affordable Kershaw Leek.

www.kershawknives.com

Joe at www.outdoorsuppliesuk.com is probably the cheapest UK supplier.

:-P

Danzo
 
Opinel #8 is a great little knife and they are cheap.

Or a SAK with a locking blade
391_9120_1.jpg

391_9127_1.jpg
 
Personally, I like the Victorinox Hunter with its usefully long saw, a blade long enough to fillet a fish and the second gutting blade. Certainly, it's not the heaviest duty knife around, but a useful enough little package if you treat it with a bit of care.

they're absolutely superb knives, i have two, both with the broken locks. :roll: one of which is still in service.

cheers, and.
 
thanks for the photo steven, i didn't even know there was a mini RSK.

how does the edge geometry/size/angle of the final bevel compare between the standard grippies and the RSK?

cheers, and.
 
Are these knives too big and bulky to carry in the pocket? Or is it better to carry them in a belt sheath?

I've a Buck Ranger (112) which, although it's not particularly large, is too heavy to carry in the pocket, needs to be used with its sheath and so tends to remain at home in favour of something lighter as I already carry a Leatherman on my belt - (I don't think the leatherman knife blade is up to standard). The Buck blade does, however, take a superb edge.
 
falcon said:
Are these knives too big and bulky to carry in the pocket? Or is it better to carry them in a belt sheath?

I own the top one in Stevens picture...

grip1.jpg


grip2.jpg


It's compact and very lightweight. No problems carrying it in your pocket.

I know Sargey says the Doug Ritter models are worth x2 the cost, but I remain unconvinced. I just dont see how S30v and a fractionally different blade profile can make that much difference. Maybe I'm missing something, I dunno. The regular model is made from 440C, which is an excellent steel.
 
I'm not sure how the blade profiles differ. At Bladeforums Doug Ritter said: "The specs are: 30° plain edge, 6.9° bevel"

I don't know if the S30V Ritters are that much better than the 440C Griptilians but I had to have them :naughty:

Is a Sebenza that much better than an Opinel?
 
sargey said:
i'd definately go for the liner locks over slide locks. i have two slide lock SAKs, and both have been repeatedly defeated till they didn't work at all. the knife is still ok to use as a simple spring/slipjoint.

Can anyone enlighten me about 'liner locks' (eg. on a SAK) vs other lock mechanisms? :?:

Thanks
 

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