Axe handle treatment advice

[Bonzo Frog]

Hi All,

I've just received a Helko Werk Journeyman Pack Axe which come with an American Hickory handle treated with BLO. I'd like to treat the handle again before I start to use it in anger and I have some walnut oil in the house. Should I stick with BLO or would it be ok to use walnut oil on top of the BLO?
Thoughts/advice/opinions appreciated.

Thanks in advance

 

[Macaroon]

Why do you think it needs treating again, is there something wrong with how it is? Walnut oil is good stuff but it'll take forever to harden over BLO, and I don't think it's the right finish for an axe handle.

How about rubbing a bit of beeswax over the top of what's there?.

 

[Bonzo Frog]

Why do you think it needs treating again, is there something wrong with how it is? Walnut oil is good stuff but it'll take forever to harden over BLO, and I don't think it's the right finish for an axe handle.

How about rubbing a bit of beeswax over the top of what's there?.

Hi Macaroon,
I wasn't sure how good a finish you get straight out of the factory and I thought to enhance it before use. I like the idea of using beeswax. Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[Sparky415]

If it keeps soaking in I keep adding it
I put BLO on nearly everything (I thin mine 50/50 white spirit )
As Macaroon says bees wax leaves a nice grippy finish to a handle

 

[Bonzo Frog]

Cheers guys, the wood seems quite dry so it looks like a coat or two of BLO and finished off with beeswax. Do you recommend a pure beeswax as I have a good quality furniture wax which says it contains beeswax/carnauba wax, would that do?

 

[Sparky415]

I made my own from some bees wax, turpentine and linseed oil, (equal parts)
Your furniture wax sounds like it would work, if it doesn't you could always sand it off,
Got to be worth a try

 

[R.Lewis]

Oil it till it stops drinking it up is what I tend to do. Then twice yearly. Never had any issues with that.

 

[Janne]

Why do you need to oil it more than the manufacturer did?

It might need a coat every year or every other year. Unless you break the handle, it will last you for decades!
You do not want to make the wood slippery or shiny.

 

[Bonzo Frog]

Why do you need to oil it more than the manufacturer did?

It might need a coat every year or every other year. Unless you break the handle, it will last you for decades!
You do not want to make the wood slippery or shiny.

It seems very dry and certainly needs something, (not just my opinion, others have said so too) I'm currently soaking the head then I'll oil it until it stops drinking as R Lewis has said. I'll just make sure I don't over do it. Thanks everyone for your input.

 

[Stew]

The old advice is that you oil it once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then once a year for life.

Feels a tad excessive to me but it'll certainly give it a good dose.

 

[Bonzo Frog]

The old advice is that you oil it once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then once a year for life.

Feels a tad excessive to me but it'll certainly give it a good dose.

I'll give it a go and keep an eye on things

 

[Sparky415]

I also stand mine head up and leave a little puddle on the eye

 

[Janne]

What surface do you get?
Glossy/silky?

Unless you heat up the wood before applying the oil, it will not penetrate that deeply.

 

[Robson Valley]

Without knowing, I suspect that the manufacturer has a good sense for wood finishing unless they expect DIY.

I would not try the Charles' Law wood heating trick now. Raw dry wood is altogether different.
All that can do is drive out the factory finish and you will have a right mess to recover.

Hickory (Carya sp) is a group of 12 species in North America. Very large vessels so
the infiltration of preservatives and finishes ought to be easier than most others.

 

[Sparky415]

@Janne,
I thin my linseed oil with 50% white spirit and put more coats on until it stops soaking in, when the handles are dry they will take a few coats,
Then I coat them with my bees wax, turpentine and linseed oil (equal parts) mix
This one has pine tar added to the mix
This I heat in to the wood with a hot air gun

Added, if you finish your handle with a rasp then oil it, it will remain 'grippy' .if you finish you handle with 1000grit sand paper and oil it, it will remain very smooth

 

[Trotsky]

I made my own "linwax" by melting beeswax into linseed oil (not boiled) in a double boiler and allowing it to cool in a jam jar. The result is rather like shoe polish, rub a thin coat of it over the whole axe, head and handle, allow to dry for a while and buff off. It gives a nice finish, helps with grip on the handle and keeps moisture off the head, win win.

 

[Janne]

On my Gränsfors hatchet, I applied two coats of BLO after 2 or 3 years.
I use it weekly. It is now around 8 years old, but still looks good, and I have a good grip.

I do not want to have a grip weak enough that the head can easily twist sideways when I use it.