Axe advice needed

[RobertsonPau]

Hello all

I've got a couple of hatchet size axes, both 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pound, about 500g to 1kg, with helves of about 12 in, 30 cm, and got to thinking about replacing one of the helves with a longer 24 in one. Has anyone else done this and will it work?

Or should I just do it and see what happens?

Paul

 

[OldJimbo]

I have some rehandled hatchets and they work well. I've never seen the need for more than a 12oz head on a single handed hatchet.
The big problems are that the best handle size for 1 1/4-1 1/2lb hatchet heads is 20" - and those are hard to find. Hatchet heads with a short blade like the boy scout pattern need straight handles. And of course the smaller eye of hatchets combined with the larger wood of longer handles means a lot more fitting.

 

[RobertsonPau]

Cheers for the info. I've been looking for a 20in helve for while with no luck. I'll probably end up trying the 24in and see what happens.


Paul

 

[OldJimbo]

Here's the first one I did. A Hults 1 1/4lb head. Since then I've really worked it over and now it beats the Gransfors sfa in chopping as well as splitting.

The original varnished handle was barely seasoned - and so the longer handle didn't really change the overall weight.

 

[RobertsonPau]

Right then, I'll be changing the helve for a longer one. I was hoping to end up with a more versatile tool than it is at the moment, and it looks like this will work.

Cheers for the advice and photo's, I'll try to get some of my 'reworked' axe up when it's done.

Paul

 

[OldJimbo]

I believe that you'll be shocked at the improvement that a few inches make, Paul. Just try to get the straightest handle that you can - the one shown is OK - but I'd certainly feel happier with a straighter one. If 24" is the size you can get - well it's a bit longer than is needed for easy carry, but it'll certainly work. I have a 1 3/4lb head on a 36" handle for teaching kids so they can't hit feet, and I often use it for taking down small leaning trees.
Once the head is off - that's the best time to work on the head to get the ramp up the eye as smooth as possible. That Hults was left with label etc so I could work in stages. You'll find working on the cutting bevels easier with the handle on. Notice the paint on the wood, where it's worn off the eye - and the wider cutting bevel on the axe.

Anyway - while a light axe still has to be used with a baton for splitting tough stuff, the experiments on polishing the ramp sure paid off - and have gone a lot further.
Most handles now are pretty clubby and junky. Try for as vertical a grain as you can get. Painted or varnished handles are a good sign that the wood is not fully seasoned. I use a propane torch and scrape the varnish off. If the handle still feels heavy then a light coat of linseed oil will slow drying and prevent cracks. I use a knife to scrape down the handle a little at a time every time I go out - until I end up with a slim handle. Great tinder too.
So if the axe doesn't feel well balanced at first - it's probably just because of the clubby and heavy handle - don't despair - just give it time and work...

When I have what I want, I sand the handle and scorch it with a propane torch, then finish with boiled linseed or tung oil. This gives a secure grip when wet and doesn't cause blisters like varnish.
I like a smooth finish, but some prefer a more secure grip as on the Gransfors hunter's axe. Surprisingly scraping can provide that. It's hard to see the rounded "ribbing" running at 90 degrees to the length of the handle - but maybe you can make it out.