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ged

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jul 16, 2009
4,981
15
In the woods if possible.
Had to use my horn for the first time yesterday, I was going along the dual carriageway on the way to take my bike in for a service (btw, is it usual to have a service every 4,000 km?) and people were overtaking me and some were cutting me up a bit but I'm used to that and I was making sure to stay over to the left just in case. Then this guy overtakes me in the same lane! He was literally a foot and a half away so I beep and moved over some more but he still didn't move over. Eesh!

Yes, bikes tend to have shorter service intervals than other vehicles because the engines tend to have a much higher relative performance. They also have smaller oil reservoirs because of centre-of-gravity issues. It all depends on the bike. 600 miles for the first service and 3,000 miles is typical. The services aren't usually all the same, there will often be alternately and expensive one and ... an even more expensive one. :(

You need to get into the habit of taking control of your bit of road. This isn't something I tell anyone without worrying a bit about it. We're not talking about being aggressive, we're talking about giving information by means of the way you ride, and in particular with your road positioning. The other driver in this case might easily have mistaken your left-of-centre position for an invitation. On the other hand he might well have seen an inexperienced rider and decided to take advantage. You can learn quite a lot about the human race when you start to read the way they drive. If you're staying well over to the left and then you find yourself in a tight spot, you might have nowhere to go but over the kerb, or even nowhere to go at all.

When I have a piece of road I try to let people around me know that it's mine for the time being and that I'm confident of managing the situation. Then they know that if they want the bit of road I'm using they will need to wait until it's free. Rarely, they will want to take it by force. Unfortunately, as you've now discovered, it happens more often than you'd think -- especially in dense traffic at rush hour. In that case I'll go somewhere else, my safety comes first. That means I'm always on the lookout for another safe haven just in case. If there isn't one I'll often make one. Sometimes I'll use one driver to protect me from another. You won't be able to do a lot of this stuff until you're both completely at ease controlling the bike, and able quickly to size up the situation that you're in at that instant and plan your response to it. It has to be said that it helps a lot in planning and execution if you can call on way more power than you could at present safely apply to your back wheel. That's unfortunate in some ways but the simple fact is that you can accelerate into trouble a lot more easily than you can accelerate out of it.

As I said, I'm a bit nervous about this. Broadcasting information to other road users through your riding, controlling the road and the traffic around you (yes, you can to a degree control the traffic around you), and keeping three or four bolt holes handy just in case are advanced techniques and you don't want to forget about the run of the mill stuff while trying to do something that you're not yet ready for. For the time being you're obviously learning fast and you seem to be getting along OK so please don't try anything too fancy. Watch what's going on around you as carefully as you can and learn from it. Stay cool. Remember that for most people, once they've passed their test, driving is just a way of avoiding the walk and they have no incentive to want to do it any better than they do it now -- which by and large is rather badly. Most of them don't even know what their tyre pressures should be.

Oh, and your horn is "to let others know you are there". If you think you're going to need to use it, use it sooner rather than later. Try to get into the habit of making it sound like "Have you seen me?" rather than "B@$T@RD!"
 

gsfgaz

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jul 19, 2009
2,763
0
Hamilton... scotland
u don't sit far to the left , if u do that they will force u in ti the kerb ,, as GED says the road is yours , so stay well out if they need to overtake fare enough ... you r not on a push bike mate u pay road tax so u are entitled road as much as any one
 

GearGuru

Forager
Jun 7, 2006
194
0
54
Market Deeping
SWINTON ALERT - Dont get your insurance with these swindlers. 90 quid to correct a small mistake - 50 quid + to cancel the policy (Even in the 14 day cool off perod!!) when you're not prepared to pay their quite frankly Piracy fees. Never again for me - i'm seeking independant advice to try and get it back - be warned should be called Swindlers Bike insurance - rant over
 

Asa Samuel

Native
May 6, 2009
1,450
1
St Austell.
Brr! It's getting cold out there! :hatscarf:

I set off for my daily 'commute' to college at 7:50 and it's still freeeeezing because the sun hasn't risen properly. Most of me is fine because I tend to wear a fleece and jacket underneath my protective jacket but my hands are really taking a beating! My gloves are just a single layer of leather with no insulation so they do actually go numb during some parts of my ride, I've tried wearing some fleece thinsulate gloves (the only ones I have that fit inside my leather gloves) but they haven't seemed to have helped at all - maybe it's a circulation thing? I'm saving up to get some thicker gloves but it's gonna be quite painful until then!
My other worry is ice, I'm sure the main roads won't be so bad but the first 20 minutes of my journey is high-hedged farm roads with one part on a slope with trees surrounding it that even on a dry day always seems to be wet. I'm had one problem on that road already when I was coming down the slope approaching a tight corner, a car came round the corner and I moved over to give him room and my back tyre hit a patch of wet mud and slid to the side - I kept control of the bike but it was still pretty scary! Do you guys have any tips for dealing with ice? I know it's a bad idea to use the brakes too much as you might start sliding but what about road positioning? My CBT instructor said during snowfall try and stay in line with the passenger wheel as there will be less snow there from the heat of the tyres but what about just ice?

Luckily I'll be moving a lot closer to the college soon so I won't have to much worry but until then I'm just going to have to adapt.

I really appreciate all the advice you guys give, it's nice to know If I have a quick query I can come here and ask! :)
 

ged

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jul 16, 2009
4,981
15
In the woods if possible.
Brr! It's getting cold out there!

And it's going to get colder! I was out on the FJR this afternoon and I wasn't cold at all. Admittedly I wasn't wearing my leathers, but I was wearing my summer gloves. I much prefer them because I get much better feedback from the bike than with thick gloves.

... my hands are really taking a beating! My gloves are just a single layer of leather with no insulation so they do actually go numb during some parts of my ride...

That's not so good. You need your hands to work properly. Some people do have more trouble keeping their hands warm than others, it's just the way life is I'm afraid. There's no warmth in leather as you now know. Good winter gloves don't come cheap, as you also know. You could probably save yourself some pain if you get some cheap overmittens or you might even be able to make some. I have some waxed cotton overmittens and sometimes I wear them more for the insulation than the waterproofing. Mittens are much warmer than gloves, but it's a bit of an art to drive a bike while you're wearing them. Take it easy. If you're like me you'll probably never really get used to mittens, you'll just want to get them off as soon as you can.

If your body is good and warm your hands will stay a bit warmer for longer, so you might find that a hot water bottle stuffed down your jacket helps. If nothing else you can stop now and again and warm your hands on it. Don't use water so hot that it would injure you if you had an accident and the bottle burst.

Do you guys have any tips for dealing with ice? I know it's a bad idea to use the brakes too much as you might start sliding but what about road positioning?

If there's untreated ice on the road then two wheels is the next best thing to suicide. Take the bus, call a taxi, do whatever it takes to stay alive. Other road users will not take enough care to ensure your survival in icy conditions, if you fall off when someone is following you in a car then there's a good chance tha he'll run over you. Sure, it's possible to ride a bike on ice, but I lost count of the times I fell off, and it grieves me to think how much unnecessary damage I did to my bikes. If the roads are salted you have a chance, although the salt will do a lot of damage to the bike too unless you spend three hours each day cleaning it.

A large chunk of the energy in the fuel you buy goes into heating up the tyres, so your CBT instructor was right that the tyres of other vehicles will tend to melt snow, and they'll tend to melt ice too. Unfortunately it's sometimes very difficult to tell whether the road is icy or just wet until you're sliding along on your back with a bike on top of you. If the snow is deep you might find that you lose control because you can't get the front wheel to go where you want it.

If I absolutely had to ride on ice then I'd get an old lightweight bike just for the purpose so that I didn't care how much damage it suffered and I could pick it up easily after I fell off it. I'd put good crash bars on it so that hopefully it wouldn't crush my legs when it was sliding along on its side, and I'd try to make sure also that the headlight, bars and levers wouldn't break so that it would still be rideable after a spill. I'd seriously consider a trike but you don't see them a lot. A sidecar outfit is another possibility. But I really can't envisage a situation which would force me into riding a bike on icy roads. The sensible thing to do is wait until the ice has gone.
 

Robbi

Full Member
Mar 1, 2009
10,247
1,040
northern ireland
here's a tip for keeping your hands warm.

before you set off, use Raljex (sp), just rub it in like hand cream, not too much mind, then put on a pair of the plastic gloves you get free at some petrol stations when using deisel before your normal gloves. keeps your hands really toasty for about an hour or more BUT.....remember to wash your hands BEFORE you go to the loo !!
 

lavrentyuk

Nomad
Oct 19, 2006
279
0
Mid Wales
1. Heated grips.
2. Handlebar muffs
3. Heine Gericke Pathan 2 finger Gloves

In any order these will resolve your problems. Muffs are the cheapest and biggest improvement as they create a pocket of still and dry air for your hands. I occasionally use all three and have to swap gloves for a thinner pair due to the heat giving better winter control of brake/clutch and steering.

Heated bars/grips needn't be expensive, there are always offers out there and many are easy to fit. I prefer heated bars as it keeps the size of the grips down. And please remember to turn them off or you will have a flat battery !!

Good (winter) riding. Maybe see you at the Dragon !

Richard
 

Retired Member southey

M.A.B (Mad About Bushcraft)
Jun 4, 2006
11,098
13
your house!
I have a set of heated grips by Oxford, they didnt increase the girth to much, but i would advise to leave the main power connector exposed so when you stop you can just unplug it or over a couple of dys it will drain your batt, good system with three power levels and pretty inexpensive, also check out heingerricks sale bin or gtbikes i think theres one of those not far from you on the a30, they normally have a few pairs of last seasons winter gloves knicking around and sale price,
 

Asa Samuel

Native
May 6, 2009
1,450
1
St Austell.
I am going to be moving a lot closer to the college soon and I know that if there is any ice around there then they will have gritters out as it is the city centre almost and the fact that there might be ice where I live at the moment is another reason to move as soon as I can because I really don't want to have to deal with riding on ice or trying to work out another way of getting there, a taxi would be too expensive and the nearest bus stop is quite a walk away and that is one huuuge round trip. Hopefully I wont have to deal with it at all!
 

AJB

Native
Oct 2, 2004
1,821
9
56
Lancashire
Had my GSA for about a month now and I’m loving my new lease of life after 27 years without a bike, but yesterday I did Glasson Dock, Lancaster, Windermere, Ambleside and then Wrynose and Hardknott passes in a thunderstorm with torrential rain and hail, standing up on the pegs with the traction control light flashing – one of the most exciting things I’ve ever done! Calmed down over lunch in my mate's pub in Boot – amazing day out.
 

Asa Samuel

Native
May 6, 2009
1,450
1
St Austell.
Hey guys, I'm just doing a bit of my usual maintenance and had to adjust the chain tension as it was a little slack. Before I have just loosened off the axle nut, then the locking nuts then the adjusting nuts until the chain is right and then doing up the lock nuts and then the axle nut but I have just been reading up and a few people recommend jamming something between the chain and sprocket then spinning the wheel back to make sure that the wheel is snug back so the adjusting bolts are done correctly. Now, I certainly don't want to be jamming a wrench in between the chain and sprocket but making sure the wheel is snug back against the bolts sounds like a good idea so is there a way I can do this without risking damaging the chain or sprocket?

Also, is regular 3-in-1 oil alright for lubricating the chain? It's what I've been using so far.
 
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ged

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jul 16, 2009
4,981
15
In the woods if possible.
... just been reading up and a few people recommend jamming something between the chain and sprocket then spinning the wheel back to make sure that the wheel is snug back so the adjusting bolts are done correctly.

Assuming the wheel moves fore and aft reasonably freely when the axle is loose, all you need to do is tension the chain by pressing down on the middle of the run. I wouldn't want to risk damaging a tooth on the sprocket by jamming anything in there.

Also, is regular 3-in-1 oil alright for lubricating the chain? It's what I've been using so far.

Most makers I've seen recommend 20/50 for motorcycle chains. I think 3-in-1 is a bit too light. I've flirted with spray grease, boil in the tin grease, and other preparations but I always go back to 20/50 in the end. On long journeys I keep a small contact lens solution bottle full of 20/50 in my tail pack, but you probably don't need to carry it about with you if you're only doing short journeys. Even so, in winter weather you'll probably need to be oiling the chain at least every 100 miles or so.
 

Asa Samuel

Native
May 6, 2009
1,450
1
St Austell.
Assuming the wheel moves fore and aft reasonably freely when the axle is loose, all you need to do is tension the chain by pressing down on the middle of the run. I wouldn't want to risk damaging a tooth on the sprocket by jamming anything in there.

Yep, certainly didn't sound like a good idea but I thought it would be worth asking :)

Most makers I've seen recommend 20/50 for motorcycle chains. I think 3-in-1 is a bit too light. I've flirted with spray grease, boil in the tin grease, and other preparations but I always go back to 20/50 in the end. On long journeys I keep a small contact lens solution bottle full of 20/50 in my tail pack, but you probably don't need to carry it about with you if you're only doing short journeys. Even so, in winter weather you'll probably need to be oiling the chain at least every 100 miles or so.

I'll try and get some 20/50, cheers :)
 

ged

Bushcrafter (boy, I've got a lot to say!)
Jul 16, 2009
4,981
15
In the woods if possible.
While I think about it, did your reading mention that chains very rarely wear evenly? So when you tension the chain you need to make sure that the tension isn't ever too great by checking it at several positions of the chain. you'll probably find the rear wheel rotates at least three times for every revolution of the chain, so checking the chain tension something like half a dozen times at positions separated by about half of one revolution of the rear wheel will probably do it.
 

Asa Samuel

Native
May 6, 2009
1,450
1
St Austell.
No it didn't, thanks for the heads up. Hopefully I shouldn't have any problems since the bike has only done 3,500km so far but I like to check everything over once in a while just to be sure :) It's going in for it's next service soon so if I've missed anything it should be sorted out then.
 

Asa Samuel

Native
May 6, 2009
1,450
1
St Austell.
Well, the headlights busted! The lights weren't very good anyway so it's a good excuse to upgrade them! I'm just wondering whether globe headlights have many/any advantages to the regular type There doesn't seem to be much difference in price.
 

Asa Samuel

Native
May 6, 2009
1,450
1
St Austell.
After I'm finished with it my dad is going to have it so I don't need to worry too much about resale value (even if he does!)
I've always felt the main beam is too focused on one spot, would the globe help get rid of this?
 

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